Leak Down Barrel

[xero28]

I'd say the bolt/sear are most likely the culprits. If the bolt isn't held snug up against the power tube o-ring, it will vent down the barrel. Because of the wear, I would suppose that the bolt is being pushed forward a bit and is not able to sit up snug next to the o-ring. I read in one of your posts that if you push on the bolt, the leak stops, correct? If so, then yes, get a new bolt and a new sear and you should be good to go. Make sure you get an RT sear though, as they are not interchangeable with a standard AutoMag/MiniMag Sear.

[secretweaponevan]

I have an RT classic, no rail bushing because of the banjo.

Does the RT classic use the same sear as the classic?

Dur. I thought of the missing bushing right before I drifted to sleep last night. I didn't re-read all the particulars before posting this morning.

Yeah, you need a new bolt and sear.

[athomas]

Looking at those sear and bolt pictures, I have to say they are most likely the culprits. Those are about the worst I have seen.

[Advanced]

Looking at those sear and bolt pictures, I have to say they are most likely the culprits. Those are about the worst I have seen.

Yeah, I was really surprised, it's chipped like that completely around the bolt edge. The sear is pretty messed up but the bolt appears worse.

This is actually good timing...I alsot bought a minimag last week. I also bought a ReTro valve + level 10 from someone else. Both will be arriving in the next 2 days. Once I put the retro into the mini, I'll drop the level 7 bolt into this one temporarily. Now all I have to do is order a new sear and the parts kit.

I'll put a lev 10 in this RT next paycheck.

[Ando]

Don't toss the lvl 10 just yet, might be salvageable. The sear on the other hand is Tango Uniform. That's the worst sear I've seen for sure. I've seen worst bolts still work though, hopefully it can be reused.

[athomas]

No, that bolt is toast. It might work for a while with a new sear, but it wouldn't be advisable. With the rounded edge, the tip of even a new sear would have the tendency to slip off and release the bolt. This would cause excess wear on a new sear and it would soon look like the one that is there now.

[Advanced]

No, that bolt is toast. It might work for a while with a new sear, but it wouldn't be advisable. With the rounded edge, the tip of even a new sear would have the tendency to slip off and release the bolt. This would cause excess wear on a new sear and it would soon look like the one that is there now.

This is a level 7 bolt right now. I'm just swapping the one from my minimag onto it in the mean time. I'm going to just replace both and have a fresh start on life with it.

The bolt edge is really jagged to the finger touch. I think putting a clean sear to it would just tear up a new sear and let it slip here and there.

[Ando]

The bolt edge is really jagged to the finger touch. I think putting a clean sear to it would just tear up a new sear and let it slip here and there.

That's what they make files for

Trust me. I've filed a few bolts in my time. It'll be fine. Send it my way and I'll recondition it, test it and if it isn't to far gone i'll send it back.

Next to a CNC machine which I wish they had in that shop (in another building). I can do just about anything. I could also give it to one of my boys there and he'll have that thing looking as good as new. Just pay the shipping back and forth and we'll call it good.

PM me if your interested.

[Adam45]

I would disassemble everything and clean out any metal shavings that are inside. They will cause unusual wear and create problems hard to diagnose later.

I recently repaired a friends RT that had a bolt and sear with much the same wear. Your best to start with a new bolt and sear, theres to much tinkering to fix the ones you have.

[Advanced]

I would disassemble everything and clean out any metal shavings that are inside. They will cause unusual wear and create problems hard to diagnose later.

I recently repaired a friends RT that had a bolt and sear with much the same wear. Your best to start with a new bolt and sear, theres to much tinkering to fix the ones you have.

I replaced most of the orings in the gun, replaced the sear, and the bolt.

Works fine now, when I put the bolts side by side, I'd say the original bolt was worn down by more than 1mm. I also noticed the springs, the new one was about 5-6mm longer when at rest, possibly indicating why the bolt was able to be pushed back.

The orings inside the gun were all the dark brown, probably the original factory ones from many years ago. All the new ones are the white ones.

Thank you all for your help.

[athomas]

Glad to hear you got it repaired.