AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
I have a spare stock Emag trigger if you want to try that too.
i finally got the trigger rod adjusted with the help of the soldering iron
i measured out the length according to the AGD tolerances thread
later in the week, ill try tearing down the valve and throwing it in another marker to see how that goes
ok, iv got my panels off no and it looks like the noid wires are soldered to the board
im no stranger to soldering im just hesitant since mistakes to boards are not easy fixes these days
are those the two wires i need to switch?
they are both white
If you are apprehensive about soldering around the board, cut the wires in the middle. Skin them back and switch them. The polarity may already be correct. You won't know until you change them. The problem either goes away or gets worst.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
well if it was me here are a few things I would try.
get the valve working in another marker. even if its just a intel frame with random RT rail and SS body. not sure if you can use the Emag on/off pin so switch that to be sure. Make sure there is No question of the valve being functional
if the valve passes check your sear assembly and get it working in M-mode then E-mode.
if the valve still fails to work in another marker set up. swap out the on/off pin or assembly. try another lvl x assembly if possible. check your power tube make sure its not damaged. clean and rebuild if necessary the reg portion of the valve.
whats the marker chrono at when it does fire?
ok
i tried my valve on another marker and it worked fine
i tried it in mech mode on my xmag and it RT'ed like crazy with a crossy 850psi reg and 1200 left in the tank
is my on/off pin or assembly the problem?
If it works properly in another gun, then the valve is probably ok. The pin should be .712" long which would be closer to 23/32" long. You probably wouldn't be able to measure it properly without a pair of calipers.
If it RTs a lot in the X-mag body, then perhaps the sear is worn at the tip. If there is any rounding at the tip, it will make the valve much more reactive.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
If it works properly in another gun, then the valve is probably ok. The pin should be .712" long which would be closer to 23/32" long. You probably wouldn't be able to measure it properly without a pair of calipers.
If it RTs a lot in the X-mag body, then perhaps the sear is worn at the tip. If there is any rounding at the tip, it will make the valve much more reactive.
it looks fine to me but let me know what you think
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