Alright this is reminding me why I don't like spoolies. I have replaced every oring, but I'm still having problems with the power tube and/or bolt. Now it won't fire, it has a high leak down the barrel. When I pull the trigger it puffs. if I hold the trigger down it the leak stops. I have lubed/replaced the power tube oring and the on/off orings, but the b*tch still leaks. If I push the bolt back it won't click, but it did the last few times I dry fired it. The level 7 bolt is rough around the edges where it hits the sear. The sear has a small chip in it, but when I took apart the mag it looks like the sear covers a good part of the bolt when it catches. The on/off pin isn't bent and it's in the right way.
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You'll have to replace the sear and bolt bro. No way around it. -
That's what I thought, but before spending anymore cash on it I wanted to verify that is what the problem is. I'm going to save up for a level 10 and pick up a sear. The sear does have some pretty good wear on it, the part that catches on the bolt is eroded from friction.Comment
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be sure to hit up the misc parts section here. I'm sure you can get a slightly used one cheap!Comment
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That's where I would start because I can't see myself spending $30 for a brand new one.
thanks.Comment
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Take a clear picture of the sear tip and bolt lip and post it.
The fact that it stops leaking when the trigger is held is an indication that the problem is in the powertube region of the gun. If it leaks when the sear is reset and the trigger is forward, then you need a shorter powertube spacer. If it won't reset by itself and quite often a requires that you push the bolt back to reset, then it probably needs a longer powertube spacer. A worn sear usually means you need a shorter spacer to compensate for the wear.
Make sure your rail bushing is in place. It won't cycle properly and will likely leak if it is missing.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Thanks. I'll post a pic this evening. I tried to take a pic with my phone Monday, but the flash kept messing up the image. I'll check the RT diagram and find out if the bushing is there.Comment
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The bushing goes in the back of the rail where the field strip screw holds the valve in place. It keeps the valve from moving back and forth. Without it, the valve will sit too far back and cause air to leak out the front. It also messes with the timing of the valve.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Does an RT Classic have a rail bushing? Honestly, I don't know.Comment
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no rail bushing on an RT classicComment
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I haven't seen one on the diagrams.Comment
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The field strip screw has 3 orings on it. 1 seals the section above the trigger frame the 2nd seals it between the body and rail and the 3rd seals the part that screws into the valve. I don't recall seeing a bushing there.Comment
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I wasn't even thinking about the RT classic. It has the banjo bolt, not a field strip screw, so no rail busing.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Originally posted by athomas
The tricky thing is that most of the time pushing the bolt back so that it resets will stop the leak, but sometimes I can't get the bolt to catch on the sear. I've read about the spacers, but I don't want to spend $20 on them so I may save up and get a level 10. That will be after I replace the sear. Would taking a dremel to the bolt to smooth it out be a good idea? I just want to smooth out the skirt so that the sear sits flat on it. A level 10 will elminate the need for spacers right since I would tune it with shims?
thanks everybody!Comment
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