A couple x-valve issues

[factoid]

So I just got a new x-valve and for the most part it's working great. There's a small level 10 leak that I posted about in the level 10 thread. It's aggravating because I've tried everything I can think of and none of the usual stuff is fixing it, but it's not really impacting performance much.


I'm having another issue that's more of a minor annoyance than a real problem. The on/off wants to stick out just a little too far to allow the valve to be inserted into the body. The two o-rings at the top of the on/off don't want to seat with each other and are pushing the on/off slightly out.

I can get the valve into the body by using my pick to push on it while I slide the valve in.

My classic valve does this same thing when I remove the on/off o-rings, but that usually goes away the first time I air the valve up. My retro valve has never had this problem, but I got it used and I don't think I've ever replaced the on/off o-rings.


Maybe it's just because the thing is brand new out of the box and needs a chance to wear in before those o-rings will stop shifting?


I also have one other annoyance and it's not related to the x-valve it's related to the RT Pro rail I bought to use with this mag. The sear appears to be in good condition, very little wear, but when I pull the trigger it doesn't push the on/off pin far enough to make it possible to remove the valve. I have to disassemble the entire marker and pull the body and valve off together. It pushes far enough to fire, but not far enough to clear the stainless steel body. Does the same thing on all of my valves, so I would guess it's a clearance issue. Is there a fix for this?

[Dirge]

My first Xvalve nearly took a trip out the car window. It sat for six months until I cooled down. Then one day, it stopped leaking and doing funky crap. No idea to this day. I think KC Troublefree did help though.

[Dirge]

I also have one other annoyance and it's not related to the x-valve it's related to the RT Pro rail I bought to use with this mag. The sear appears to be in good condition, very little wear, but when I pull the trigger it doesn't push the on/off pin far enough to make it possible to remove the valve. I have to disassemble the entire marker and pull the body and valve off together. It pushes far enough to fire, but not far enough to clear the stainless steel body. Does the same thing on all of my valves, so I would guess it's a clearance issue. Is there a fix for this?

Your sear rod may be too short. There is a thread around on rod lengths.

[athomas]

Yes, check your sear rod. Gas up the marker. Put the safety on and hold the trigger. Check how much distance is between the back of the trigger and the front of the trigger rod. Adjust the length so that it almost touches (credit card thickness). This should allow enough movement to push the on-off pin far enough into the valve unless there is a trigger stop installed.

[factoid]

I lengthened the sear rod until it's almost touching the trigger when it's in Safe.


It was a tiny bit short, but I could only lengthen it about a turn until I was making contact.

It's a little better now, but still not enough to push the sear back into the body.

Maybe this old stainless body (off a classic) is too thick to use with an RTP rail? Are newer bodies made from thinner stock?

Comparing the AM/MM rail and the RTP rail, I can see just by looking at it that the RTP rail is a good 1-2 mm thicker.

The RT sear has a slightly longer stem that the sear arm attaches to, I assume to compensate for that extra thickness.


I bought this rail used, and I believe the previous owner used it in conjunction with a ULE body, so maybe the tolerances just aren't right with a stainless one.

[Ando]

Try holding the trigger down while you degas. That might keep the pin from sticking out.

[gmiller0]

FYI.... when I got my x-valve, I called AGD and spoke to a guy named Roman and he said my old sear assembly should not be used and to use the newer one as I had an older Mag.

[factoid]

FYI.... when I got my x-valve, I called AGD and spoke to a guy named Roman and he said my old sear assembly should not be used and to use the newer one as I had an older Mag.

Oh, is there a new version of the RT Sear? Have there been any updates to the RT Pro rail? This one appears to be older. It has the same type of vert ASA hole that AM/MM rails have. It hasn't been punched out yet, but it's pre-drilled so all you do is poke out the last bit and you can run a single bolt into an old style vert ASA.

I was going to use that hole and poke one more so I can use an RT style vert ASA, but if this rail/body/sear/valve combo is no good I'll probably just post it up on BST and buy a new one.

This is a bit of a frankenstein mag at the moment but I wanted to get it functional for a game next week before all the rest of my parts are in.

The parts I'm using are:

either an AM/MM or RTP rail
Classic Mag stainless body (the old grey one)
X-Valve
Intelliframe

[Spider-TW]

Something I did on my pneumag bodies (with a sear stop) was to take a round and/or oval file and partially ramp the back edge of the hole in the body. That was all it needed to keep from hanging on a barely extended pin.

[athomas]

Something I did on my pneumag bodies (with a sear stop) was to take a round and/or oval file and partially ramp the back edge of the hole in the body. That was all it needed to keep from hanging on a barely extended pin.

That's a great idea.

[athomas]

Oh, is there a new version of the RT Sear? Have there been any updates to the RT Pro rail? This one appears to be older.

No new versions. Yours should be fine. The older classics that were updated, were only because the original ones had more metal in them making them heavier. It theoretically affected the trigger return which would have affected the ability to short stroke.

If you use the classic body, don't forget to make the oval pim round or it won't fit into the smaller round hole of the RT rail. The pim is the protruding piece with the hole that the grip frame screws into.

[factoid]

No new versions. Yours should be fine. The older classics that were updated, were only because the original ones had more metal in them making them heavier. It theoretically affected the trigger return which would have affected the ability to short stroke.

If you use the classic body, don't forget to make the oval pim round or it won't fit into the smaller round hole of the RT rail. The pim is the protruding piece with the hole that the grip frame screws into.

It must be the sear then, I'll have to look for a new one.

I will gas it up again after putting the sear rod at its max length without touching the trigger and see if putting in a ramp like spider suggested might work.

I did round off the PIM on this body. It was a huge pain, but eventually I discovered that dremel cutting disks worked great for the job. I only had to go through 2 or 3 of them to do it, which isn't bad at all at about 10 cents a piece, and it's nice and smooth and round.


Anyone have any ideas what to do with the on/off jutting out though? It's not a big deal, but it's really annoying having to use a pick to hold it in while I insert the valve, espcially as I'm removing it a lot to tune the level 10.

I was thinking about just putting my classic on/off assembly into it just to see if that helped flatten out those two o-rings, but I'm not sure that would work.

Hopefully that problem will solve itself with time. I'm hoping the o-rings are just new and stiff and will break in eventually.

[Spider-TW]

If I missed this, I missed it twice...

Which on/off do you have????

[factoid]

Sorry, it's a stock RT on/off.

I might get a ULT for it down the road, but I need to get the rest of the valve tuned and working properly before I mess with that.

[Spider-TW]

Sorry, it's a stock RT on/off.

I might get a ULT for it down the road, but I need to get the rest of the valve tuned and working properly before I mess with that.

If it's new, it's probably just the new o-rings. You can check with your fingers that the on/off top isn't loose and unscrewed slightly. Mine have always lined up square - top flats matching the bottom sides. It has flats, but I have never used a wrench on them.