A couple x-valve issues

[factoid]

If it's new, it's probably just the new o-rings. You can check with your fingers that the on/off top isn't loose and unscrewed slightly. Mine have always lined up square - top flats matching the bottom sides. It has flats, but I have never used a wrench on them.

The on/off top is on tight.

The problem seems to be that the small on/off bottom o-ring doesn't want to stay nestled inside the larger one. The on/off pin seems to put enough pressure on it that it always slides up just a little bit.

Same thing always happens when I remove the o-rings in my classic valve, but gassing up once always made them seat themselves and stay seated until I screwed with them again. They never pushed up enough, though, to make the valve difficult to insert, but then again the classic on/off has a lower profile

[Spider-TW]

If you look at your o-rings and you can see mold lines, you might consider polishing them off. Automotive fine polishing compound (for one) on a metal rod of a snug diameter will polish off the inner mold line easily. Outer ones are a little tricky, but you can spin them on the shaft and try to abrade the outside. It's not like that outer o-ring will ever wear in by itself.

I do this on new level 10 o-rings that are exactly between carrier sizes (too tight and too loose). It also keeps you from having to re-tune your level 10 after a couple cases.

[factoid]

Yeah, I'm gonna have to do some more work on this thing. Took it out to play over thanksgiving weekend and it performed like CRAP.

Despite the fact I had it holding air just fine at the house as soon as I took it out to the country to play it leaked like a sieve. Then it was shooting fine for a while but I tried to actually play I was pulling the trigger and nothing happened.

I cranked up the velocity a bit and it started shooting.

But it was definitely a chuffing, leaking mess. I wish I had enough time to work on the gun while I was there, but we had very little time to play so I just had to tough it out.

Such are the pains of getting a new rig tuned up and working.

I'm scrapping the AM/MM rail because I think it's the root of the problem. It's caused consistent leaking on two different level 10 bolts now. One on a classic and one on this new x-valve.

I'll switch over to the RTP rail and see what changes. Something has to be out of spec in this rig. My other RT Pro has none of these problems.

[factoid]

FINALLY got this all working tonight.

I ditched the AM/MM rail and went back to the RTP rail. I figured out that the problem with the trigger and sear not working well is a result of the stainless mainbody I'm using not lining up with the sear very well.

I used a opened the rear hole for the on/off pin a bit and now it travels unimpeded. I also lengthened the sear rod a bit more so I can now drive the on/off pin far enough into the valve to remove it without disassembling the whole thing. It takes a little wiggling, but I'm going to file a ramp into it like SpiderTW suggested and that should solve it completely.


I fixed the level 10 leak by going down yet ANOTHER carrier size to a 0. Even though the 0.5 had been holding air consistently. I guess I wore in the power tube o-ring. The bolt feels really tight, but it shows no sign of bolt stick. Hopefully that extra friction isn't killing my efficiency too badly.

This baby RIPS now. The level 10 is nice and soft, no more leaking and it RTs like a sonofa*****.

Thanks for the help. This one was really making me mad. It's what i get for making a frankenmag out of random used parts from three or four different guns.

Maybe I'll run with that for a theme. Green and black with chrome bolts and a lightning pattern on the grips

EDIT: Oh and it took half a case of paint and a couple thousand dry fires, but the on/off o-rings are finally broken in and seating nicely so I don't have to use a pick to install the valve anymore.

[athomas]

Excellent. Good to hear you got it going.