RT Leak

[pwidby]

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=255808
Now my new problem is that it is leaking down the barrel. It will not fire it just leaks down the barrel whether you pull the trigger or not. I assume it would be the on/ off? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Paul

[athomas]

Does you gun have a level 10 bolt? Have you turned up the velocity?

When you gas up the valve for the first time after a rebuild, make sure there is oil on all the orings. Not soaked, just wet. Hold the trigger in when you gas it up. It will help to seat the orings. Don't forget to turn up the velocity. If you changed the orings in the powertube and you are using a level 10, you will need to retune it.

[pwidby]

Does you gun have a level 10 bolt? Have you turned up the velocity?

When you gas up the valve for the first time after a rebuild, make sure there is oil on all the orings. Not soaked, just wet. Hold the trigger in when you gas it up. It will help to seat the orings. Don't forget to turn up the velocity. If you changed the orings in the powertube and you are using a level 10, you will need to retune it.

Level 7 bolt. I oiled the new o rings. I will try again tonight. The air is just running straight through the gun.
Thanks

[Ando]

Fire and hold your trigger down, If it continues to leak with the trigger held then you have an on/off issue.

Depending on your valve you might not have the #23 oring but all of them have #22. #22 should fix the leak. If you do have #23 replace it to for GP.

Now if it stops leaking while holding the trigger then it's either going to be the PT oring (#14) or the carrier/spacer (#13). What's shown in the picture is a updated spacer. Older valves will have a spring type carrier inside the PT which will wear out after time.

If you do have a spring type carrier then my money is on it, you'll need a spacer kit to fix it. People have reported stretching them out just a little works and will buy you some time till your spacer kit comes in.

[pwidby]

Air is just FLOWING out the barrel, trigger pulled or not pulled. The trigger changes nothing. The air just runs out the barrel. I will go back through the valve tomorrow and see if I missed something.
Thanks

[athomas]

Does the trigger have tension on it, or is it loose?

A missing/damaged orings #22,32,34 will cause your issues.

Oring # 23 isn't in your valve. Don't install it.

for a level 7 bolt, make sure oring # 14 is good. #12 doesn't matter.

[pwidby]

Does the trigger have tension on it, or is it loose?

A missing/damaged orings #21,32,34 will cause your issues.

Oring # 23 isn't in your valve. Don't install it.

for a level 7 bolt, make sure oring # 14 is good. #12 doesn't matter.

Yep, trigger has no tension. I will try that. Thanks for your help, Paul

[athomas]

A trigger with no tension, means the bolt is not resetting and is preventing the sear from rotating forward. This is a bolt stick issue. Because air is flowing out the front, means that the on-off is not stopping the flow of air which it is supposed to do when the sear is not reset. This is usually due to the on-off top oring leaking, but could also be the others I listed as well. The air can get into the front chamber of a retro/RT type valve in more than one direction due to the pressure feedback system.

I mentioned oring #21. It should read #22 which is the on-off top oring. #21 is the pin.

Further investigation indicates to me that #34 probably won't cause your problem.

When the valve is leaking air, manually push the bolt back into place. Use a squeegie from the front. The sear should click into place when you do this and the trigger should get pushed forward. This will let you know if the powertube actually seals the front.

[stimpysan]

Ran into this same problem. Air it up, air just blows down the barrel, trigger does nothing. Tried everything . When you slide your bolt on the power tube do you feel a little resistance. If not it's your power tube oring. I put 2 brand new one's in my valve and still had the same problem. I mic'd everything and the inside diameter of the new oring was .010 more than the one I took out. I put the old one back in and the gun worked fine.

Just something else to check.

[Ando]

How does your bolt spring look? Take a pic of it on your bolt. If it's flushed or below the bolt face then replace it.

See if you can reset the bolt by putting something down front and push against the bolt face.

[pwidby]

It is the bolt sticking. I have used this gun for 3 years w/o any problems. Just rebuilt the valve and now I have a bolt sticking? It has a #215 spacer in the power tube. Should I go to a #220? Or is it something else?
Thanks, Paul

[pwidby]

OK? Now it seems to be working fine!! Must of been a grimlin. Maybe the new o rings just need to seat themselves. I will post if it goes back to the bolt sticking.
Thnaks for everyones help, Paul

ps I am working on 2 more of my mags today, I may need some addtional help.

[stimpysan]

Are you using an AGD rebuild kit? If you have the old powertube oring put that back in and see if it fixes the problem