Rare, valuable body. Rare, valuable barrel. STUCK!

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  • Ando
    Magusmaximus
    • Jun 2009
    • 4144

    #16
    Empty a full bottle of Co2 down the barrel.

    If that don't cut it figure out which one you like more and beat the hell out of the other
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    • athomas
      Of course it works-its AGD
      • Jan 2002
      • 8039

      #17
      Even heat should destroy the orings before the metal gets hot enough to warp the metal. The trick is to evenly heat things so you don't get uneven heat distribution and expansion causing distortion.
      Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

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      • river031403
        Registered User
        • Feb 2011
        • 1080

        #18
        Originally posted by cougar20th
        I wouldnt heat it, depending on the amount of heat stainless will change colors. im not sure what that temp is.
        Heat tint colour chart

        The table below represents the temper colours that are likely to form on stainless steel type 1.4301 (AISI 304) if heated in air.

        THIS INFORMATION MUST BE USED WITH CARE WHEN INTREPETING THE HINT TINT COLOURS OBSERVED ON STAINLESS STEEL SURFACES AS THE HEATING CONDITIONS ARE NOT SPECIFIED.

        Colour Formed Approx Temperature C
        pale yellow 290
        straw yellow 340
        dark yellow 370
        brown 390
        purple brown 420
        dark purple 450
        blue 540
        dark blue 600
        http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...errerid=144073

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        • Frizzle Fry
          AO Micromag Guy
          • Mar 2009
          • 3280

          #19
          Originally posted by Ando
          Empty a full bottle of Co2 down the barrel.

          If that don't cut it figure out which one you like more and beat the hell out of the other
          I actually love this idea, the c02 I mean.

          The body is a centerfeed SS with a factory profile, the barrel is a 1of??? BOA Concealer with 3 nubbin detentes that is only channeled for centerfeed bodies.

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          • ochsy
            Registered User
            • Jul 2009
            • 141

            #20
            I would soak it in transmission fluid overnight, it does wonders on real guns to break stuff free

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            • athomas
              Of course it works-its AGD
              • Jan 2002
              • 8039

              #21
              The barrel is probably rusted in place. If there was some paintball goo in between the barrel and body and left for a long time, it could eat the annodize off the alluminum barrel and cause a reaction. If it is in close proximity to the stainless steel, any of the of the aluminum oxide that comes in contact with the stainless could cause even more reaction. I have seen stainless and aluminum weld themselves together by chemical reaction. Its not an overnight reaction, but I suspect the barrel has been in the body for quite a while, so this is a possibility. If this is the case, you will probably need a really good acidic penetrating fluid and some heat. WD-40 won't cut it for this operation.
              Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

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              • Spider-TW
                U R techno-literate!

                • Oct 2006
                • 3554

                #22
                Originally posted by athomas
                WD-40 won't cut it for this operation.
                Kroil maybe. Definitely penetrates.

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                • sjrtk
                  Clown under the bed
                  • May 2009
                  • 828

                  #23
                  Lighter fluid. seems to work as well if is it sludge from old paint. It go my 2 piece barrel apart.

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                  • my automag
                    mag#1
                    • Oct 2007
                    • 415

                    #24
                    #9 no comment...

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                    • Frizzle Fry
                      AO Micromag Guy
                      • Mar 2009
                      • 3280

                      #25
                      Tried it.

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                      • redlaser666
                        US ARMY SGT
                        • Jul 2002
                        • 841

                        #26
                        I dont know if you have tried this so im going to sugest you use 2 strap wrenches to twist the body and barrel in oposite directions. If there is any gunk in there it should start to break up when you turn the two parts and it catches on the PIM channel.

                        Good luck in getting them apart!
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                        • OPBN
                          OldPBNoob

                          • Sep 2008
                          • 5240

                          #27
                          You have more patience than I do. I would have taken a rubber mallet and block of wood to it 2 days ago.
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                          • Frizzle Fry
                            AO Micromag Guy
                            • Mar 2009
                            • 3280

                            #28
                            ...go on

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                            • athomas
                              Of course it works-its AGD
                              • Jan 2002
                              • 8039

                              #29
                              Originally posted by Spider-TW
                              Kroil maybe. Definitely penetrates.
                              I think the stuff I used before was Penoil or something like that. It came in a blue can. I think the company that distributed it was from California. I haven't seen it in our area for many years though. I used it on a drain-cock for a radiator that had so much rust that you couldn't even tell if it had a twist knob. I couldn't get it to budge and was afraid I would break it. I sprayed the penetrating oil on and left it for a day. When I came back, I tapped it with a wrench and the rust literally fell off. I turned it out with my fingers.

                              Most penetrating fluids are just light oils that can get into small crevices. Whatever is used should be primarily a penetrator and not necessarily a lubricant. Most will have lubricating properties anyway, but their primary purpose probably won't be listed as a lubricant.
                              Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

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                              • river031403
                                Registered User
                                • Feb 2011
                                • 1080

                                #30
                                rust and heat

                                In the Billboard Industry where the two plates meet at the connection moisture gets in between and rust alot of our bolts even the strongest impact/compressed guns can break it alone. so we give it a little heat evenly with the torch and then hit it with the impact gun and it breaks that rust right out. I believe the thermal expansion caused from the heat give it a little aneal effect and makes it easier to work with?
                                http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...errerid=144073

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