RT Pro valve

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  • Cokrkilr
    Registered User
    • Jan 2013
    • 377

    #1

    RT Pro valve

    I know this is silly, but I got a Pro valve sold as is in the f/s section for a good deal. It has a lvl 10 installed, but no spare parts/kit pieces/bolt spring... I was wondering if for the time being I can use my spare lvl 7 power tube parts and the bolt and spring from my classic to get this up and running for free, then down the road get the parts I need for the lvl 10 to be able to tune it??

    I know, its taking a step back, but taking a step forward from my classic valve. I've just spent lots o money on my mag the last month or so and would just like to get my pneu kit installed with this faster recharging valve ASAP, then worry about the lvl 10 later.

    I searched and came up with just key words in posts, I never found anything about cross compatability with power tube/ bolt parts

    Thanks all!

    I could also accept donations for a couple shims or a bolt spring I kid, I kid... but seriously.
    Last edited by Cokrkilr; 03-05-2013, 02:16 PM.
  • OPBN
    OldPBNoob

    • Sep 2008
    • 5240

    #2
    Yes you can switch back to level7. However just because a valve has sat for some time doesn't mean it will have to be retuned. Get the valve, air it up and see what it does before worrying about tuning. Don't look for problems where there aren't any.
    My AO Feedback

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    • Cokrkilr
      Registered User
      • Jan 2013
      • 377

      #3
      I was planning on doing that, but just wanted to see if id have any other options. It doesn't come with a bolt spring, so I still have to get that. But I'm assuming I can't use my spare classic spring? Its probably too stiff right?

      I'm making my, I know nothing about level 10 face... haha

      EDIT: Ok so I did a little parts search, as a maintenance thing/crap happens I was planning on getting a parts kit, it shows it comes with shims and carrier o rings etc for the level 10, assuming the correct size carrier is already in it id just need that and a bolt spring, right?
      Last edited by Cokrkilr; 02-21-2013, 01:01 PM.

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      • OPBN
        OldPBNoob

        • Sep 2008
        • 5240

        #4
        I thougf you bought Geoffnj's which said it came with a spring. Either way I believe the classic spring will work as long as its not worn out. Springs are consumables so picking up an extra is a good idea. She really shouldn't be needed. Having o-rings around is always a good idea. If you are already buying something consider picking up the carriers smaller and larger than what is currently on the level 10.
        My AO Feedback

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        • Cokrkilr
          Registered User
          • Jan 2013
          • 377

          #5
          When pming him he stated it was sold as pictured and had no extra level 10 parts or spring. He said the level 10 was installed so I'm set up with what's in it, one carrier, one maybe two shims, and a bolt. So if anything I guess id just need the parts kit and a spring... hopefully I don't need a carrier, because I guess ill just order the parts now that I know ill need and get them probably at the same time.

          At least I got it on a good enough deal to still be ahead of what they go for normally, plus having a full parts kit.

          Guess ill pony up some more dough! I'm done though, haha PayPal is getting shut down after this!!!!

          Thanks opbn, I'm sure ill have more ??? Once I get all my stuff. Nothing like taking on a pneumag project with an untested valve, haha.

          Comment

          • OPBN
            OldPBNoob

            • Sep 2008
            • 5240

            #6
            Ok. In post #10 he said the spring was included, maybe he couldnt find it. Either way, good luck with your project.
            My AO Feedback

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            • need4reebs
              OutKasT 4 Sho!!!

              • Feb 2011
              • 1441

              #7
              just use the spring from your classic valve...test out the RT Pro valve and see what you need to order? might wanna add a thumb screw to your list...since the mag bug bit you im pretty sure you will be building another mag soon...haha

              X-valve parts kit, thumb screw, a extra on/off pin...shorter than .750 for testing or just in case, extra o-rings are always a good thing, and lvl 10 carriers #2, #1.5, #1, #.5, and #0 and you should be set for awhile?
              http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...8715822556.gif

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              • Cokrkilr
                Registered User
                • Jan 2013
                • 377

                #8
                Hahaha DANG IT! I KNEW I forgot something! The thumb screw!!! I browsed that site for like 40 minutes and forgot it... oh well, good thing I have a trade lined up for a PF body and thumb screw But really, I do need one.

                Thanks for the advice on the parts, I plan on getting it aired up and seeing what she does. Since its ok to use the classic spring I'll have a couple to mess with and hopefully get it right with minimal headache... same is said about the pneu kit, lol

                But I believe I got bit by the bug when I was a mere boy, it just itches again

                And yes, I will probably birth another mag out of this whole ordeal... just straight up classic everything though, probably keep it "pistol size", no vert grip, short barrel. Reliable, cheap, effective.

                Thanks again all!!!

                Comment

                • The Ritual
                  Registered User
                  • Feb 2013
                  • 67

                  #9
                  Originally posted by need4reebs View Post
                  just use the spring from your classic valve...test out the RT Pro valve and see what you need to order? might wanna add a thumb screw to your list...since the mag bug bit you im pretty sure you will be building another mag soon...haha

                  X-valve parts kit, thumb screw, a extra on/off pin...shorter than .750 for testing or just in case, extra o-rings are always a good thing, and lvl 10 carriers #2, #1.5, #1, #.5, and #0 and you should be set for awhile?
                  What specifically do you mean for testing or just in case? What is the significance of going shorter than .750? I'm still learning about mags. Thanks

                  Comment

                  • Cokrkilr
                    Registered User
                    • Jan 2013
                    • 377

                    #10
                    I think the use of a shorter pin is to get a difference in reactivity?? Am I way off? Ill be using a pneu setup so that's out the window anyway. I just want to have the faster recharge and honestly... Polish the crap out of it

                    Comment

                    • need4reebs
                      OutKasT 4 Sho!!!

                      • Feb 2011
                      • 1441

                      #11
                      Originally posted by The Ritual View Post
                      What specifically do you mean for testing or just in case? What is the significance of going shorter than .750? I'm still learning about mags. Thanks
                      ooops sorry about that man...the difference in on/pins can affect the reactivity of the valve. a stock RT Pro valve usually has a .750 on/off pin, while a E-Mag on/off pin is .712, and there a various other size pins you can order from Tunamart.com or airgundesigns.com to test/tune/hot rod your Mag! its definitely something to research on your own as your learning about mags as well as asking questions. pretty much everything you would have a question about can be found in the tech forum if you go back to the first thread and read them. not to mention you learn alot of other things...most important...that the members here love their mags and are very willing to help a new Maggot...but its kool to see a new Maggot research at least the basics on their own?

                      hope that helps dood?

                      OH YEAH... WELCOME TO AO!!!!
                      http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...8715822556.gif

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                      • The Ritual
                        Registered User
                        • Feb 2013
                        • 67

                        #12
                        Thanks! I've got an early 1 star air valve (before they started putting "classic" on the valve) that came with the early on offs. I picked up a nos reactor on off and it seems to have lightened the pull a bit. I like the older valves and don't see a need for an xvalve with ule trigger if I can just optimize my classic on off.

                        Im looking for the lightest possible pull with my benchmark single trigger. Dont need walkability or high rof. Think a ule trigger in a classic would make a dramatic difference over my reactor on off?

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                        • Cokrkilr
                          Registered User
                          • Jan 2013
                          • 377

                          #13
                          Most likely will not work due to the operating pressure of the classic valve.

                          Comment

                          • The Ritual
                            Registered User
                            • Feb 2013
                            • 67

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Cokrkilr View Post
                            Most likely will not work due to the operating pressure of the classic valve.
                            Thanks for the heads up. Ive been scouring the forums and people have mixed results using the ule trigger kit in a classic valve. Some have reported using shims to make it work, but most complain about shortstroking on a classic valve with ule. I hope to hunt down a galactic systems z valve on off eventually, but the reactor seems good enough for now.

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                            • need4reebs
                              OutKasT 4 Sho!!!

                              • Feb 2011
                              • 1441

                              #15
                              Originally posted by The Ritual View Post
                              Thanks for the heads up. Ive been scouring the forums and people have mixed results using the ule trigger kit in a classic valve. Some have reported using shims to make it work, but most complain about shortstroking on a classic valve with ule. I hope to hunt down a galactic systems z valve on off eventually, but the reactor seems good enough for now.
                              i really liked the trigger pull with a single trigger benchmark frame and the reactor on/off. no matter what you will always get mixed reviews on Mag parts...were friggin Krazy and Picky paintballers...haha! just kidding! if you like the reactor on/off then you should be set, you can also use a RT on/off to lighten the trigger pull...i honestly couldnt tell the difference between the RT on/off and a Reactor on/off on my MiniMag?
                              http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...8715822556.gif

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