I need some RT on/off assembly edjucation!

[big poppa fluff]

I need some schooling on RT on/off assemblies.
I was speaking to Loguzzzzz about running a ULT on a pneumag and this was his response..."The ULT is not the best setup for a Pneumag. The RT on/off is the best I have found. The reactivity helps to reset the pneumatics and is slightly faster on re-charge."

I trust his imput but the question is: Can I run a RT on/off assembly on a stock valve?

Also, What will a RT on/off assembly in a stock valve effect as far as the total operation of the gun? (ie. will it make it run like a regular RT valve)

All I have in the valve is a Phase II charger and a LVL 10 kit. Any info on this subject can help, thank you.

[blackdeath1k]

I've got a rt on off assembly in my classic minimag. It lightens the trigger pull a tad. But that's about it that I can tell. The rt effect is due to how the air is regulated in the valve. Not the on off.

[big poppa fluff]

I've got a rt on off assembly in my classic minimag. It lightens the trigger pull a tad. But that's about it that I can tell. The rt effect is due to how the air is regulated in the valve. Not the on off.

what kind of pressure do you have running to the valve?
Did you have to mod your gun to put the RT on/off in their?

[blackdeath1k]

Pre set crossfire 850. And nope. Direct drop in. Make sure the on off pin is the correct length though. .75

[big poppa fluff]

Pre set crossfire 850. And nope. Direct drop in. Make sure the on off pin is the correct length though. .75

thank you....now the last question...can I buy yours?

lol, jk, jk, does AGD sell these? I saw parts to a on/off assembly but not the entire assembly altogether.

[athomas]

The classic AIR valve uses velocity controlling regulated air at the top of the on-off pin unlike direct tank pressure at the pin of a retro valve. The reset action of the retro pin in an AIR valve has the same starting force as a stock AIR valve on-off pin. The smaller diameter of the lower section of the pin means your trigger pull force will be half of what it is with the stock pin. However, the differential force between the trigger pull and return force is significantly lower on a classic AIR valve compared to a retro valve such that even using a retro on-off assembly will not result in reactivity at the trigger.

[Justus]

...does AGD sell these? I saw parts to a on/off assembly but not the entire assembly altogether.

It's on page 2 of the X-valve/Retro/Emag/RT Valve Parts section. Here: http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/in...fo&prodId=2092

[big poppa fluff]

The classic AIR valve uses velocity controlling regulated air at the top of the on-off pin unlike direct tank pressure at the pin of a retro valve. The reset action of the retro pin in an AIR valve has the same starting force as a stock AIR valve on-off pin. The smaller diameter of the lower section of the pin means your trigger pull force will be half of what it is with the stock pin. However, the differential force between the trigger pull and return force is significantly lower on a classic AIR valve compared to a retro valve such that even using a retro on-off assembly will not result in reactivity at the trigger.

ok... I thinking about going to a capped valve and running a external reg. or adj. tank, will I still have the same result as above.

[big poppa fluff]

It's on page 2 of the X-valve/Retro/Emag/RT Valve Parts section. Here: http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/in...fo&prodId=2092

thank you

[blackdeath1k]

Haha. Nope. Wife would kill me if I sold her gun parts. I do need to start building something featherlight for scenario play though.

[nak81783]

ok... I thinking about going to a capped valve and running a external reg. or adj. tank, will I still have the same result as above.

As the pressure that the dump chamber sees will need to be the same, yes it will work the same as described above. Your external reg will be outputting relatively the same pressure as what the AIR valve was supplying the dump chamber (and top of on/off pin).


-Nathan

[athomas]

I agree with the post above. The AIR valve delivers regulated air which is the same as any external regulator on a capped valve. Its just that the AIR valve has the regulator onboard.

[OPBN]

The classic AIR valve uses velocity controlling regulated air at the top of the on-off pin unlike direct tank pressure at the pin of a retro valve. The reset action of the retro pin in an AIR valve has the same starting force as a stock AIR valve on-off pin. The smaller diameter of the lower section of the pin means your trigger pull force will be half of what it is with the stock pin. However, the differential force between the trigger pull and return force is significantly lower on a classic AIR valve compared to a retro valve such that even using a retro on-off assembly will not result in reactivity at the trigger.

I keep reading this over and over slowly and it makes my head hurt.

Poppa Fluff, I am running a capped classic valve with an RT on/off in my pneu project. For a pneu'd Mag it helps as it lowers the pressure needed to the ram to trip the sear. With a capped valve, you will not get any sort of RT effect, even from a capped RT/Xvalve. I tried going one step further with using a ULT in the classic, but could not get it to trip consistently. I may go back an revisit this now that I have a little more tuning knowledge.

[nak81783]

It sounds like you understand it well. Why is your head hurting? It's all about what pressures act on what surface areas and when.

Now for the hijack. With a ULT in a Classic valve, it seems like it would trip but maybe not reset due to less pressure (std RT vs std Classic setup) on a given surface area. Unless you were just out shooting it. I can't walk a trigger to save my life, but I'm assuming many with pneumag setups could outshoot a Classic valve with a Classic or RT on/off.

Did I help or worsen your headache?


-Nathan

[OPBN]

It has been several months since I tried the ULT in the valve. I just remembered it was not working out at all. Honestly, I have tried so many variations with this setup that I have a hard time keeping it straight. I do remember at the time trying to get it to work and happended across a thread saying that ULT's were inconsistent in Classic valves so I pulled it out and some of my issues went away. This was also prior to me putting the Pneus in and I think someone mentioned that a ULT might work in a pneu setup due to the faster tripping of the sear? I could be way off on this as it's all a little fuzzy at this point.

I'm not sure why all this makes my head hurt. Probably just old age.