ULT = sear not catching

[Mic0157]

Okay forum correct me if I'm wrong. I have an AM with ULE / X-Valve / Lvl 10 / intelliframe and just dropped a ULT trigger in and now the sear won't consistently reset. I've read up on this and it appears I need to remove a shim or two? Does that sound right?

Next question, I want to shorten the creep on the trigger pull. From what I've read you can't just go twisting the trigger rod since he on / off valve may or may not catch. Again, is that correct?

Last one, on the tip of the Lvl 10 is that little black rubber cushion. Well mine just fell off. I had an extra and slipped it in but it fell right out. Will superglue hold that in? Too small for duct tape.

This is my first AM so I'm being cautious with adjusting it.

[OPBN]

Okay forum correct me if I'm wrong. I have an AM with ULE / X-Valve / Lvl 10 / intelliframe and just dropped a ULT trigger in and now the sear won't consistently reset. I've read up on this and it appears I need to remove a shim or two? Does that sound right? Start tuning the ULT by removing all of the shims. Add back in one at a time to adjust it to your liking.

Next question, I want to shorten the creep on the trigger pull. From what I've read you can't just go twisting the trigger rod since he on / off valve may or may not catch. Again, is that correct? Sear rod should sit about a credit cards thickness from the back of the trigger when aired up. IIRC, there is an exact measurement in the Tolerances thread. You may have to adjust this after adding/removing shims from the ULT.

Last one, on the tip of the Lvl 10 is that little black rubber cushion. Well mine just fell off. I had an extra and slipped it in but it fell right out. Will superglue hold that in? Too small for duct tape. Yes, it has to be glued on. Super Glue will work, but make sure you clean any residue off the bolt before attempting to glue it on. Any oil or bits of the previous foamy can cause the bond to be weak.

This is my first AM so I'm being cautious with adjusting it.

Good luck.

[nak81783]

Is the trigger limp, or are you pulling against some amount of pressure?

What input pressure are you running? Is it going directly to the valve or through any other form of regulation/restriction?

You want a credit card's thickness gas between the back of the trigger and the trigger rod when the marker is pressurized. If you have that, leave it. If you don't, post back, and we can walk you through the adjustment.

I've had good luck with Loctite Ultra Gel. It is a rubber toughened CA glue. It's good for impact resistance, and I can find it a lot easier/cheaper than some of the other recommended glues (IC-2000, LocTite 380). Be sure to clean the surfaces, scuff them up a little, and clean up any squeeze out when you press the parts together.

You may also want to glue your bumper to the valve to prolong its life.

Edit: Looks like OPBN beat me to it.


-Nathan

[OPBN]

Edit: Looks like OPBN beat me to it.
-Nathan

Just call me QuickDraw!

[Mic0157]

Sounds like I'm on the right path. The ULT and shims aspect threw me off. I'm headed out with it tomorrow and can deal with it between games. With the addition of the ULT do I need to worry about adjustments to the LVL 10 ( shims and such)?

[OPBN]

Sounds like I'm on the right path. The ULT and shims aspect threw me off. I'm headed out with it tomorrow and can deal with it between games. With the addition of the ULT do I need to worry about adjustments to the LVL 10 ( shims and such)?

Not unless it's giving you issues. IIRC, the L10 manual says to fire off about 1k shots after installing to get it broken in properly and then retune if necessary. Is this a new marker/valve? or used?

[nak81783]

Follow post #2168 in the linked thread below to tune your Level 10. The printed and CD instructions are obsolete. Most setups don't require shims.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?43538-**-Official-Level-10-Problems-Thread-**/page73

To answer your question, theoretically, switching to a ULT shouldn't affect the Level 10 as the dump chamber still sees the same pressure regardless of on/off type.

Edit: Can't type fast enough on iPhone to beat QuickDraw.


-Nathan

[OPBN]

Foll
Edit: Can't type fast enough on iPhone to beat QuickDraw.


-Nathan

How long does it take to type" that's what she said"?

[Mic0157]

I recently acquired the marker, and assume most items to have been worn in.

Hey, I saw somplace elses that simply lubing the on/off might be the solution too. Either way, you've given me a couple of things to look at.

And this is all coming from a tank putting out an unknown pressure directly into the valve. I know, high pressure = better for these markers, but I don't know how to test that. Ideas?

[nak81783]

Eh, if you have a preset tank, and it was running the std on/off OK, it's probably not the issue. I was more concerned with if the issue is sporadic (chuff, chuff, shoot, chuff, shoot) or continuous once it happens (shoot, shoot, chuff, chuff, chuff x infinity). Also, I was more concerned with a limp trigger or some resistance on the trigger (may be hard to tell with a ULT) when the issue is present. And if "chuff" should be replaced with "nothing".

Hopefully, some simple tuning will solve the issue. If not, you know where we're at.


-Nathan

[Spider-TW]

I recently acquired the marker, and assume most items to have been worn in.

Hey, I saw somplace elses that simply lubing the on/off might be the solution too. Either way, you've given me a couple of things to look at.

And this is all coming from a tank putting out an unknown pressure directly into the valve. I know, high pressure = better for these markers, but I don't know how to test that. Ideas?

Definitely approach all of the trouble shooting tips with the understanding that mags like oil. If you haven't shot 3-4 drops of oil through the ASA (without the barrel) yet, that is a better start.

air + oil = happy-mag

[Mic0157]

Okay I got the sear catching but it's on full auto when I pull the trigger? Ideas?

[Laku]

Okay I got the sear catching but it's on full auto when I pull the trigger? Ideas?

Sounds like too short on/off pin or badly adjusted sear.

[Mic0157]

What's odd is that I have it back to its original configuration. I took the new stuff out and put the old stuff in and it's still acting up. Could replacing some of the o-rings in the valve have any affect? And I oiled the on/off before use.

I'm perplexed.

[mike780]

Are both on-off top o-rings in there?