AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
Now when dry firing it would occasionally stop cycling, almost like the solonoid wouldn't push the sear back into position, and if I de-aired, then re-aired it, it would start working again. Does it just need a good lubing? And what are the recommended areas to lube, I've heard they are oil hogs?
Here's a tip: When you're reassembling after ano, make sure you get good ground connections. When replacing the ground pin where the battery pack connects, it may help to run a patch of fine sandpaper in the hole first. And where the board bolts to the frame (the ground screw) run that same piece of fine sandpaper over the flat part of the frame where the screw goes so that the back of the board makes good contact with bare metal.
Now when dry firing it would occasionally stop cycling, almost like the solonoid wouldn't push the sear back into position, and if I de-aired, then re-aired it, it would start working again. Does it just need a good lubing? And what are the recommended areas to lube, I've heard they are oil hogs?
This sounds like bolt stick, go up in your carrer and yes, a lite sprits of oil for GP especially if its been sitting around for a while. I've been using tryflow for a good 8 years now but any PB oil will work fine.
Like already posted by Justin. Expose some bear metal, best thing to use is a tap (4-40) for the board screw. Just run it in and out a few times.
Really hard to value custom markers these days. Probably nothing near what you have into it....
True, but $800 would be a common ballpark, don't you think? +/- $200 for rate of sale. In Norway, it should be worth more to someone willing to care for it.
Really hard to value custom markers these days. Probably nothing near what you have into it....
I bought it for $615 raw, also came with an ULE milled E-Mag rail and a ULE body. Shouldn't really say what the ordeal with the anno was, but it wasn't what you think.
Originally posted by Spider-TW
True, but $800 would be a common ballpark, don't you think? +/- $200 for rate of sale. In Norway, it should be worth more to someone willing to care for it.
Most markers are cheaper or identical in pricing, the used market is a complete bust though. Selling anything that isn't of the current year is a lose/lose endeavour :P
It's currently residing with impulse in oregon though.
I bought it for $615 raw, also came with an ULE milled E-Mag rail and a ULE body. Shouldn't really say what the ordeal with the anno was, but it wasn't what you think.
Most markers are cheaper or identical in pricing, the used market is a complete bust though. Selling anything that isn't of the current year is a lose/lose endeavour :P
It's currently residing with impulse in oregon though.
I'm guessing $250-300 in anodizing costs. $600-800 is probably a good ballpark.
Most markers are cheaper or identical in pricing, the used market is a complete bust though. Selling anything that isn't of the current year is a lose/lose endeavour
MOST! Does not have automags under that category :)
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