E-Mag Assembly

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  • Impulse42
    F N G
    • Aug 2013
    • 8

    #16
    Nevermind, just nevermind the air question....

    *doesn't want to talk about retard moment*

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    • Impulse42
      F N G
      • Aug 2013
      • 8

      #17
      Now when dry firing it would occasionally stop cycling, almost like the solonoid wouldn't push the sear back into position, and if I de-aired, then re-aired it, it would start working again. Does it just need a good lubing? And what are the recommended areas to lube, I've heard they are oil hogs?

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      • Justus
        Justech.us

        • Nov 2010
        • 1515

        #18
        Here's a tip: When you're reassembling after ano, make sure you get good ground connections. When replacing the ground pin where the battery pack connects, it may help to run a patch of fine sandpaper in the hole first. And where the board bolts to the frame (the ground screw) run that same piece of fine sandpaper over the flat part of the frame where the screw goes so that the back of the board makes good contact with bare metal.

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        • Vegard
          • Feb 2003
          • 187

          #19
          Did you break it yet Kevin?
          Click to see my feedback, if you`ve done any deals with me, please post.

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          • Ando
            Magusmaximus
            • Jun 2009
            • 4144

            #20
            Originally posted by Impulse42 View Post
            Now when dry firing it would occasionally stop cycling, almost like the solonoid wouldn't push the sear back into position, and if I de-aired, then re-aired it, it would start working again. Does it just need a good lubing? And what are the recommended areas to lube, I've heard they are oil hogs?
            This sounds like bolt stick, go up in your carrer and yes, a lite sprits of oil for GP especially if its been sitting around for a while. I've been using tryflow for a good 8 years now but any PB oil will work fine.

            Like already posted by Justin. Expose some bear metal, best thing to use is a tap (4-40) for the board screw. Just run it in and out a few times.
            Last edited by Ando; 08-15-2013, 05:46 AM.
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            • Vegard
              • Feb 2003
              • 187

              #21
              Out of curiousity, how much would it be worth?
              Click to see my feedback, if you`ve done any deals with me, please post.

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              • OPBN
                OldPBNoob

                • Sep 2008
                • 5240

                #22
                Originally posted by Vegard View Post
                Out of curiousity, how much would it be worth?
                Really hard to value custom markers these days. Probably nothing near what you have into it....
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                • Spider-TW
                  U R techno-literate!

                  • Oct 2006
                  • 3554

                  #23
                  Originally posted by OPBN View Post
                  Really hard to value custom markers these days. Probably nothing near what you have into it....
                  True, but $800 would be a common ballpark, don't you think? +/- $200 for rate of sale. In Norway, it should be worth more to someone willing to care for it.

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                  • Vegard
                    • Feb 2003
                    • 187

                    #24
                    Originally posted by OPBN View Post
                    Really hard to value custom markers these days. Probably nothing near what you have into it....
                    I bought it for $615 raw, also came with an ULE milled E-Mag rail and a ULE body. Shouldn't really say what the ordeal with the anno was, but it wasn't what you think.

                    Originally posted by Spider-TW View Post
                    True, but $800 would be a common ballpark, don't you think? +/- $200 for rate of sale. In Norway, it should be worth more to someone willing to care for it.
                    Most markers are cheaper or identical in pricing, the used market is a complete bust though. Selling anything that isn't of the current year is a lose/lose endeavour :P

                    It's currently residing with impulse in oregon though.
                    Last edited by Vegard; 08-23-2013, 02:29 PM.
                    Click to see my feedback, if you`ve done any deals with me, please post.

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                    • OPBN
                      OldPBNoob

                      • Sep 2008
                      • 5240

                      #25
                      Originally posted by Vegard View Post
                      I bought it for $615 raw, also came with an ULE milled E-Mag rail and a ULE body. Shouldn't really say what the ordeal with the anno was, but it wasn't what you think.



                      Most markers are cheaper or identical in pricing, the used market is a complete bust though. Selling anything that isn't of the current year is a lose/lose endeavour :P

                      It's currently residing with impulse in oregon though.
                      I'm guessing $250-300 in anodizing costs. $600-800 is probably a good ballpark.
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                      • Freedy500
                        Loner-Team Wick3d
                        • Feb 2012
                        • 400

                        #26
                        Originally posted by Vegard View Post
                        Most markers are cheaper or identical in pricing, the used market is a complete bust though. Selling anything that isn't of the current year is a lose/lose endeavour
                        MOST! Does not have automags under that category
                        My feedback: http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...eedback-Thread

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                        • Ando
                          Magusmaximus
                          • Jun 2009
                          • 4144

                          #27
                          Originally posted by Freedy500 View Post
                          MOST! Does not have automags under that category
                          +1
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