broke-off CCM fitting in my X-valve, what shoud i do?

[yellowmitten]

Try a screw/bolt extractor
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMrDYJvY0Ts have had to use them on broken studs on my car.

[Xmagterror]

wow thats ugly. I would think you could take it to a machine shop and they could either burn it out with a tap burner or blast a carbide endmill thru it.

[Frizzle Fry]

I really think you should ask CCM what they can do for you; if it wouldnt seal with blue loctite there is something off about the fitting, and coupled with the fact that it got stuck with just torque and teflon tape is screwy too, nevermind it snapping... Screwy. I own several sets of these and you really cant overtorque them (or at least you wouldnt, then theyde mount lower than flush).

[FormulaZR]

You might look at a left hand drill bit. Seriously, they make them...it's not like blinker fluid.

If not, I'd just try a bolt extractor. The "square" ones might be hard to use in this case...but not the "threaded" type.

Also...there's a reason it broke. I assume it's either cross threaded or has thread locker - you might need to apply some heat to it before you try to remove it. I have had good luck with "jet" type lighters, they seem to concentrate the heat better when you want it, and get hot faster without melting everything around them.

EDIT: Just read it has a lot of teflon tape on it. I would still apply heat.

[Justus]

Any updates? I see it's been almost a month since the thread was started.

[RT Lover]

Luke!

[djinnform]

I really think you should ask CCM what they can do for you; if it wouldnt seal with blue loctite there is something off about the fitting, and coupled with the fact that it got stuck with just torque and teflon tape is screwy too, nevermind it snapping... Screwy. I own several sets of these and you really cant overtorque them (or at least you wouldnt, then theyde mount lower than flush).

I spoke with Melissa at CCM. She said to try "ED Ming"? (from Flash Gordon?)

[djinnform]

You might look at a left hand drill bit. Seriously, they make them...it's not like blinker fluid.

If not, I'd just try a bolt extractor. The "square" ones might be hard to use in this case...but not the "threaded" type.

Also...there's a reason it broke. I assume it's either cross threaded or has thread locker - you might need to apply some heat to it before you try to remove it. I have had good luck with "jet" type lighters, they seem to concentrate the heat better when you want it, and get hot faster without melting everything around them.

EDIT: Just read it has a lot of teflon tape on it. I would still apply heat.

I bought one of those flamers to make Creme Brulee, that sound like a good idea.

[yellowmitten]

I thought you typed Flesh Gordon! Watch out for those sex rays. you know the one that you get when you look at Lukes mini vert frame.

[barkingspider]

i spoke with melissa at ccm. She said to try "ed ming"? (from flash gordon?)

wth......

[splat15k]

wth......

Electrical Discharge Machining

[RT Lover]

Dude email Luke, he does all the mag work and probably can fix it at a low cost opposed to just a shop, he has all u need I bet

[barkingspider]

Electrical Discharge Machining

thanks for dumbing it down to my level! Nothing above 2nd grade please

[djinnform]

Okay. I'll ask Luke already. I feel dumb because I sent him a box already this AM for another project and knew that I needed to send him something else as well, but, I couldn't remember what?

[athomas]

You can remove the broken extractor using an annodize process. Take the valve completely apart so that only the section with the broken piece is remaining. Mix up a 3:1 ratio of battery acid to water and put it in a plastic tray. Put a piece of aluminum inside the tray on the bottom. This piece of aluminum has to have an aluminum wire running out of the solution. If you have a plastic grate to sit on the aluminum on the bottom of the tray, it would be great. Connect a +12V computer power supply line to the valve section using aluminum wire or rod. Make sure there is a good electrical connection or it won't work. An aluminum rod threaded into the valve at the field strip screw hole might be the way to go. Run a tap in first so that any annodize in the threads is removed. Put the valve into the solution so that it is completely covered. Connect the 12 negative lead to the wire/rod connected to the aluminum on the bottom of the tray. Turn on the power supply and watch the bubbles coming from the ferrous metals. You might have to make waves near the bubble area to allow the bubbles to release from the metal which will allow new acid to come in contact with the area. After a few minutes, the ferrous metals will be totally dissolved.