Less reactivity

[OPBN]

Looks exactly like this:[ATTACH=CONFIG]89087[/ATTACH]

Then yes, you have a ULT. How many shims are in it?

[thehackleguy]

I think there were 4 but one of them was all bent to hell. I'll have to check to make sure, is there an optimum number that should be in there?

[OPBN]

Take all the shims out and see where you are. I have three in mine and it RT's really well.

[thehackleguy]

Will do thanks, I also looked at the ULT thread a little more....don't have time to look at the whole thing now..

[OPBN]

Do to several things, reactivity can substantially vary from valve to valve. I have had ones that I just couldn't get to RT very well, and others that will RT like crazy on 850 psi. It may take you some time to tune it to where you want it to be, so to be quite blunt, take the time to read through things and become as familiar with it all as you can. Changing A leads to changes is B. Changing B can lead to changes in C and D. It's a lot of trial and error. There is no "magic combo" that works for everyone.

While I am going for just the opposite, it took me several set ups, lots of testing, and several days of play over a couple of years for me to get it where I want it:

[Konigballer]

A benchmark frame with the fat trigger pretty much eliminates that RT effect since it moves the sear differently. At least that's been my experience. Here is the type of frame I'm talking about on a micromag.

I'v had the opposite experience with a Benchmark on my old RT valved Minimag. That beast would RT like a charm at 900psi or more, and was easy to sweetspot with that longer pull.
It really is all dependent on the valve. Even though internally they are the exact same, they each have a personality.