I recently acquired a hyperframe from ska8termog. The frame appears to be working properly but I have been having other issues. I am using an automag classic valve level 7, the on/off that came with the frame and a 3000 psi tank that's putting out about 850psi that is connected with a remote line straight to the valve. My main issue at the moment is the frame fires fine when it isn't gassed up (putting pressure to the sear it clicks once per pull) but when its gassed up it shoots burst while in semi mode and has been venting, at times, out the bolt. I replaced all the O-rings that I thought might be effected; all the on/off O-rings (some twice), the regulator seat and the power tube o-ring. I also tried using different size power tube spacers. The spacers seemed to help a little with the venting (didn't stop it completely) but didn't solve the bursting. Finally this morning after de-gassing the valve (remote line removed) there was still a small amount of air trapped in the valve. When I removed the valve from the frame, the on/off shot out of the valve and hit me in the eye. Apparently I am getting unwanted bounce from the on/off pin but I didn't think the quantity of air that could cause the on/off to be removed from the valve could be stored in the gun after it has been de-gassed. No, the connection to the valve is not one way. Is my issue with the on/off and its O-rings? I am at a loss.
Hypermag frame build on a classic - issues.
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You should pm himOriginally posted by fstop_22 View PostI recently acquired a hyperframe from ska8termog. The frame appears to be working properly but I have been having other issues. I am using an automag classic valve level 7, the on/off that came with the frame and a 3000 psi tank that's putting out about 850psi that is connected with a remote line straight to the valve. My main issue at the moment is the frame fires fine when it isn't gassed up (putting pressure to the sear it clicks once per pull) but when its gassed up it shoots burst while in semi mode and has been venting, at times, out the bolt. I replaced all the O-rings that I thought might be effected; all the on/off O-rings (some twice), the regulator seat and the power tube o-ring. I also tried using different size power tube spacers. The spacers seemed to help a little with the venting (didn't stop it completely) but didn't solve the bursting. Finally this morning after de-gassing the valve (remote line removed) there was still a small amount of air trapped in the valve. When I removed the valve from the frame, the on/off shot out of the valve and hit me in the eye. Apparently I am getting unwanted bounce from the on/off pin but I didn't think the quantity of air that could cause the on/off to be removed from the valve could be stored in the gun after it has been de-gassed. No, the connection to the valve is not one way. Is my issue with the on/off and its O-rings? I am at a loss.Comment
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I have PMed back and forth with him and were are of the same opinion, the frame is fine. I'm sorry if anyway this appeared that there was an issue with him or what he sold me. All is good there. My issues right now is with the valve and what else I might do to get it to co-operate.Comment
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Yes. Battery is not the issue. My best guess and its just a guess at this point, its the on/off or the seals with the on/off. I just got back from Exotic Sports and purchased a Reactor. (I assume you were the one who called to order one.) Hopefully the lighter trigger pull on the reactor will work for me.Comment
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A level 7 valve shouldn't hold air when degassed. The air can escape out the inlet when the air line is removed. Are you using a check valve in your air line anywhere?
If the on-off pin is too short, or if air is leaking around one of the top orings (usually the smaller one), it can go full auto or burst.
Have you checked your bolt spring? If it is weak, it can cause bolt stick and venting. It won't allow the bolt to properly reset.
Have you tried turning up the velocity? A low pressure/velocity can cause weird issues with orings leaking and cycle problems.
Try a ULT with the hyper frame. The ULT doesn't work with the classic valve when used with a manual frame, but electronic frames don't have the same issues because the on-off doesn't have to push against the finger on the trigger.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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The frame is working with my retro valve with no issues. Just figured this out today. The bolt spring is good. I haven't attempted to turn up the velocity but the last time I used it (last Sunday) It was shooting around 270 FPS. There is no check valve. I'd prefer not to get a ULT at this time.
I found that the hyperframe on/off sits about 1/16th of an inch higher that the stock on/off. So that when I attempt to install the valve on the body it rubs just slightly (very hard to detect). The hyperframe comes with a new on/off bottom, a spacer and pin. You are suppose to use the on/off top that came with the valve. I may attempt to remove 1/16 of an inch from the spacer to see if having the on/off sit lower in the valve body will help. Ska8termog also suggested that the pin, being new, might need to be worn in. Ideas?Comment
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It's a good investment for the tinkererrrOriginally posted by fstop_22 View PostIt is definitely a possibility. There is a dive shop about 10 min from my house.Comment
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