What's the deal with these bolts? Notice the one protrudes further than the other.
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Last edited by Bunny; 05-30-2014, 09:09 AM. -
I believe the long bolt is a level 5 and the short bolt is the level 7. I. Could be wrong -
i think they're both level 7 bolts; i have both kinds in various 'mags. my newer valves all came with the longer one on the left. i think it's supposed to reduce air blowing into the feed tube and bobbling the balls? i haven't had any issues with either, although i like the one on the right better in theory. i would think it would have less chance of clipping the next ball in the stack, kind of like the ego's cure bolt.
anyway, as long as the bolt lip that catches the sear isn't worn too much...that's what really matters.Comment
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Both level 7. And I'm pretty sure you are correct. The one on the right is what came in my 68 automag back in 94-95. The other came in my rtpro when I bought it from its original owner in the early 2000. I don't remember what came in my automagRT. I've ran a foamy bolt in it forever. But not sure what came in it originally.Comment
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They are both level 7 bolts. One is a longnose bolt, and the other a standard foamyless bolt.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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What was the advantage of the long nose over the normal one? Or was there an advantage of one or the other at all?Originally posted by athomas View PostComment
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There were all sorts of theories about chopping when the automag was king. The solid center tip was introduced to replace the foamy bolt to help prevent ball role back which helped keep the next ball in line from dropping down and getting clipped. The long nose bolt was introduced to prevent the blowback that mags had, which also contributed to the problem. The operation of the valve with a level 7 bolt really doesn't make one better than the other. Only the level 10 bolt really stopped the clipping/chopping of the next ball.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Well in my 20 years of mag use only chopping I can remember was user error. OR a legit marker problem that needed fixed. But anyways. So is this why newer foamy bolts have a longer nose to them? I've got a couple foamy bolts that the rubber bumper sticks way out. Then I've got a couple that the rubber is basicly flush with the front of the metal.
I always preferred foamy bolts. Felt they were more forgiving on brittle paint. But with that always keep a few bolts ready in case I loose a foamy for some reason. Swap bolt and call it a day.Comment
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I used to chop when I got excited in a game and really got on the trigger. The gravity fed hopper just couldn't keep up and the next thing you know, a blast of paint fragments would shoot out the barrel. I never got broken paint when shooting normally though, unless I shot really brittle paint and used a barrel that was too tight. I blast paint even with a level 10 when that happens.
The foamy thicknesses are just due to the cut of the neoprene that was used at the time of manufacturing or replacement. Mine are all flush.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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