So I bought an Xmag but....

[Motrin870]

Hey guys i'm in need of some tech advice.

So I purchased an Xmag but I cannot get it to operate. I was told from the previous owner that it had not been used in at least 5 years, so I went ahead and ordered new o-rings for the Xvalve (they haven't arrived yet). Currently installed o-rings appear to be in "ok" condition... as in they aren't dry rotting. Upon inspection of the marker, it was not cleaned from the last time it was used. I cleaned out the barrel and oiled her up the best I could. I did not remove the rail from the body. I have a slight air leak at both ends of the macroline, but nothing from the valve itself... at least as far as I can tell. The bolt itself had a clear rubbery substance on the back of it but it was coming off (I replaced it with the blue foamie). For the life of me, I could not get it to shoot in any of modes (the board and batt are good). Somehow, I did manage to get it to shoot 4-5 rounds but then it went "dead" again (this is in mech mode). I understand that this might just be valve o-ring issues but I want to be progressive on this as it would take some time mailing it off to AGD or Tuna to fix from Japan. Oh... and on those 4-5 rounds that actually worked the bolt shot the rubber triangle thing off from the bolt I have another in my tool kit but what is the best method to use as far as adhesive goes? You can see that when gassed up the sear pin doesn't seem to protrude to the trigger (i'm not sure if thats normal on the Xmag, but it's not normal for my automag). I also placed the marker in ACE 0 and tried all ACE modes in attempts to get it to work.

Attached are the problem areas that i have identified thus far. The pic of the software version is to show that the board works.
Thanks in advance for the advice!

IMG_0209.jpgIMG_0211.jpgIMG_0212.jpgIMG_0213.jpg

[Motrin870]

****UPDATE****

After attempting to fix the leak in the macroline... there appeared to be just a few fragments of an oring on the tank-side of the macroline but they were so small I question if there really was an oring in there at all. The other oring was intact but I need to replace it as well. I can blow air through the macroline so I don't believe there are oring fragments in the line and I have seen no fragments within the valve. Where would the fragments settle within the marker or would they be blown out?

Also, where is a good source to order macroline o-rings? The fittings on this marker are two different sizes so i'm not sure if both sides get an oring and if they do, are they the same size?

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[Nobody]

Contact Tuna or BigEvil about your mag. Do not worry about the time it takes, as you would rather make sure its 100% working than to cheap out on a few days in time. You can send the fittings with the gun, but i suspect it would be easier to just replace them. As for the gun not shooting, even though the LED is lighting up, the noid might not be getting enough juice. Again, send it to BigEvil and he will go through the entire gun. If you have followed any one on here, BigEvil is who Bunny sends his guns to, when they aren't working.

So contqct him, make aure you ship the gun insured and through FedEx or other reputable shipping firm and set aside some cash for repairs.

[Motrin870]

I might have to do just that... however if I can fix the issue myself with the help and knowledge of people on this forum then I would like to try that first. To get timely shipping to and from Japan I would have to ship priority (still takes two weeks usually, one way), and shipping alone to and from would probably be over $60. At the end of that I would learn nothing. I'm new to Xvalves and electric markers and I want to learn instead of just shipping it off without at least trying to fix it myself. Thank you for your help on the other thread about the lvl 10 bolt. I was able to fix the leaking problem on my minimag with a different carrier. I'm still trying to figure out the spring logic though.

[Laku]

I live in the Finland so I can understand that you'd rather learn to tech the gun yourself. I'm not personally familiar with teching e-/x-mags, but I think in mech mode the sear rod should have the regular gap (about credit card thickness) between the tip and back of the trigger. Someone do correct me if I'm spouting utter nonsense.

[GRimm]

If you have a digital micrometer you should check the lengths of both the trigger pin as well as the plunger, it also might be a good idea to check the on/off just in case it was swapped out before it was putt away with the incorrect pin.

Trigger Rod: 2.125"

Solenoid Plunger Rod: 3.005"

On/Off pin: .712" w/ brass top and double o-ring top.
.725" w/ aluminum top and single o-ring top.

Do you know if that is a modified stock trigger or if its custom? I know I had some issues getting my xmag to fire properly because my fireblade trigger is not made to agd specs.

[Cyco-Dude]

After attempting to fix the leak in the macroline... there appeared to be just a few fragments of an oring on the tank-side of the macroline but they were so small I question if there really was an oring in there at all. The other oring was intact but I need to replace it as well. I can blow air through the macroline so I don't believe there are oring fragments in the line and I have seen no fragments within the valve. Where would the fragments settle within the marker or would they be blown out?

Also, where is a good source to order macroline o-rings?

macroline fittings use standard o-rings, size 010 (3/8" OD, 1/4" ID). any fragments would go into the valve. just clean it out good when you go to replace the valve o-rings (also, don't forget to replace the o-rings on the valve pin assembly).

also, it would be a good idea to read the x-mag user manual if you haven't already.

regarding the foamie, clean the bolt tip off well...you want to make sure there is no loose debris, dirt or oil where the new foamie will go. then just use super glue to glue a new one in there.

[athomas]

The first thing you want to do is make sure the orings in the valve are all good. If you have inspected the valve and they look fine, that is a good and you should be able to at least get it going until your new orings get here. The on-off pin should be 0.712" since it is an X-valve, and it should have the black quad oring inside a whitish urethane oring at the on-off top.

The first order of business is to get the gun working in mechanical mode. Do adjust your solenoid plunger first, though. It will affect all of your settings, and the length of the plunger is a critcal value that will affect electronic performance.

Steps (assuming you have good orings in your valve):
- Adjust the plunger and trigger rod assembly to the proper lengths.
- Remove valve and install short gold bolt spring.
- Remove all powertube shims
- Remove carrier from powertube and install the proper carrier size as per the level 10 tuning guide.
- Make sure the bumper is installed and intact (If the bumper is shredded, put a new one on).
- Install valve
- put selector switch towards mechanical mode setting
- hold trigger and air up gun.
- Release trigger.
- Did the sear click into place? If yes then proceed to the next step below. If not, the trigger rod will be limp and won't come forward, so you will need to adjust the level 10 bolt system.
- Listen for leaks.
- If no leaks are present, fire gun.
- If gun doesn't fire, increase velocity and continue to release and pull trigger until gun fires.
- If gun never fires you probably have level 10 bolt stick or are using a bottle with a regulator that has too low a pressure output.

Once you get the mechanical gun working, we can proceed to getting the electronic part working.

[Motrin870]

I went to the big American store today (Kadena Air Force Base) and they did not sell any o-ring kits or a digital micrometer. I'll have to order those items or hope a fellow paintballer has them at the field here��

[Motrin870]

Macro line leak fixed and all o-rings replaced except the tiny one in the brass on/off and the one in the Lv 10 carrier. I didn't mess with the oring stack that AGD says not to mess with save for oiling everything nicely. Sometimes I can get one shot off in mech mode but then I hear gas getting louder in the valve over 5 sec trying to recharge, then I hear it click and try to fire again and get a little putter. When this happens, I see the bolt move just a hair. I hear nothing when switching over to E-mode. There is one wire not attached on the board not sure what it belongs to. Also, I have difficulty in removing the valve from the body as it is catching on something (yes it's in mech mode but I've tried everything).

Open to suggestions on how to fix but at this point I might just need to ship it off for repair and tuning. I don't have a digital micrometer here so I can't take measurements.

[Motrin870]

Macro line leak fixed and all o-rings replaced except the tiny one in the brass on/off and the one in the Lv 10 carrier. I didn't mess with the oring stack that AGD says not to mess with save for oiling everything nicely. Sometimes I can get one shot off in mech mode but then I hear gas getting louder in the valve over 5 sec trying to recharge, then I hear it click and try to fire again and get a little putter. When this happens, I see the bolt move just a hair. Turned reg up all the way and it didn't make a difference. I hear nothing when switching over to E-mode. There is one wire not attached on the board not sure what it belongs to. Also, I have difficulty in removing the valve from the body as it is catching on something (yes it's in mech mode but I've tried everything).

Open to suggestions on how to fix but at this point I might just need to ship it off for repair and tuning. I don't have a digital micrometer here so I can't take measurements, but I'm about to order one.image.jpg

[athomas]

The hiss and click you are hearing is probably caused by bolt stick and the level 10 is letting air out and resetting. That would mean your level 10 bolt setup needs to be tuned. The bolt only moving a tiny bit is usually related to bolt stick as well.

[Cyco-Dude]

ok, it sounds to me like you have bolt stick. this can be due to a number of reasons:

• lvl 10 carrier too small, causing excess friction. try a larger carrier...you want the largest carrier that doesn't leak.
• carrier o-ring just needs to be broken in if it's new (basically in-between carrier sizes...next larger size leaks. run a case of paint through the valve and see how it does)
• mechanical jamming. either the frame, or field strip screw is too tight, and the valve is not correctly aligned with the body. when it sticks, try loosening the field strip screw with an allen wrench and see if it helps. usually the bolt would reset right away if this was the cause.

as for difficulty in removing the valve, that is because the on/off pin is protruding down, and catching on the body. you need to pull the trigger all the way to push it up far enough so it will clear the body. it might help to stick a small allen wrench in-between the trigger and sear rod to get the pin up all the way.

[Motrin870]

I'll look into the carrier size and replace the old carrier oring tomorrow and see if that does the trick. It came with 3 shims so I will remove those as well and start from scratch. I need to replace that tiny oring in the on/off but I can't get it unscrewed... Any tips for that?

I tried the Allen wrench thing yesterday; pushing in the sear pin with it but no joy. I also tried moving it out (no safety switch in the grips) and that didn't work either. Digital micrometer has been ordered. I'll push updates out tomorrow after work. Thanks guys maybe I can get this thing going with your help!

[Cyco-Dude]

I'll look into the carrier size and replace the old carrier oring tomorrow and see if that does the trick. It came with 3 shims so I will remove those as well and start from scratch. I need to replace that tiny oring in the on/off but I can't get it unscrewed... Any tips for that?

well, if the o-ring isn't bad leave it. you use the same carrier o-ring when tuning the level 10 bolt. as for unscrewing a tight on/off, use a pair of wrenches.