So I bought an Xmag but....

[athomas]

I'll look into the carrier size and replace the old carrier oring tomorrow and see if that does the trick. It came with 3 shims so I will remove those as well and start from scratch.

As mentioned, you shouldn't replace the carrier oring. Its the oring tension that you are adjusting with the carrier sizes.

You don't want any shims installed in your powertube. They can cause leaks that make you install a carrier size that is too tight for your setup.

[Motrin870]

Update

I removed all 3 shims in the power tube. I managed to unscrew the on/off using pliers and replace and lube the small oring within. When trying to remove the valve from the body, I did manage to see the on/off pin was what was catching even though pulling the trigger or using a tool to depress the sear pin didn't work (I had to remove the sear pin and trigger frame screw to disassemble it and after removing the on/off assembly the pin was still stuck inside). I did not mess with the carrier or carrier oring. Also, the odd looking black rubber piece that fits inside the on/off tube oring was not replaced as it did not come in the xvalve repair kit.

I live in on base housing and its late, so I didn't get a chance to gas up and test. I'll have to try that tomorrow
Thanks for the help thus far hopefully m- mode will work and then I can move on to getting e-mode to work.

[Laku]

Update
Also, the odd looking black rubber piece that fits inside the on/off tube oring was not replaced as it did not come in the xvalve repair kit.

You are probably talking about quad o-ring?

[Motrin870]

Yup that's the one! I'm wondering if that is part of the prob as the on/off pin was stuck in it after pulling out the on/off assembly.

Guess I'll have to wait till tomorrow to find out.

[Cyco-Dude]

Yup that's the one! I'm wondering if that is part of the prob as the on/off pin was stuck in it after pulling out the on/off assembly.

Guess I'll have to wait till tomorrow to find out.

on/off pins do that...stick in the o-ring that is. fairly common, in my experience.

[Motrin870]

Marker still does not work. I'm regretting my purchase at this point and I'm not talking about "buyers remorse". This thing was supposed to be fully operational and clearly it is not. Had a former xmag owner at the local field look at it as well and we can't figure it out.

[Cyco-Dude]

Marker still does not work.

in which mode? what's it doing, exactly? have you checked the sear trigger rod and solenoid plunger to make sure they are in-spec and not bent?

[Motrin870]

The plunger moves easily but I can't check measurements until the tool arrives from Amazon. After making the adjustments stated above, gasing it up I hear the air going into the valve and a click. In all modes the marker does nothing, not a click or a chuff or anything. I didn't even bother attempting to remove the valve afterward but I have a feeling that the on/off pin is again obstructing it and I'll have to disassemble the marker again to remove it. The sear and sear pin should operate, at least in my mind, crisp like my minimag but it feels stiff and unresponsive. The sear assembly moves freely when I opened up the grips to check on the plunger, at least while not connected to the body.

The guy I purchased it from claimed it was fully operational so I figured it was just an oring issue but I'm not so sure anymore. In e-mode I hear nothing as well so there might be more than one issue here.

[bowcycle]

I once had a sear that was bent just slightly, but caused the symptoms you describe in a mech mag. Without a body on it, the sear appeared to move freely. When set up with a body and valve, it would stick.

[Cyco-Dude]

so..how stiff is the trigger when it's gassed up? can you pull it at all? or is it kind of spongy when you pull it, and the marker doesn't fire? if that's the case...have you tried increasing the velocity?

[maniacmechanic]

After pulling the on off out , the pin should come out with your fingers , quad rings can get gummy and grip the pin too tight , remove the quad ring and check it ( & you should not have to use tools to take an on/off apart ) , after removing the valve , with the body still mounted to the grip frame the sear assembly should pivot freely just by moving /changing the angle of the body & frame

[Motrin870]

Xvalve stuck in frame again first thing when picking it up again today. Marker still does not work.

The sear mechanism moves easily when trigger frame and body are connected but without the valve.

Re-oiled the on/off orings and the on/off pin moves well within the on/off assembly, at least when it is not within the xvalve.

The lv 10 bolt is not stuck on the powertube and moves well. It might actually move a little easier than the lv 10 bolt on my automag.

When gasing up the marker, there is now a very small leak around the bolt area, however this time around the bolt moved forward slightly when air was introduced to the valve. When pressing in the trigger and holding, the leak stopped for about three seconds then came back. After this experience, the sear pin became unresponsive and stuck within the trigger frame as if I was still holding the trigger down. Now that I think about it, the sear pin didn't move at all when I first gased it up; it just happened to be sticking out of the frame about a credit card length or maybe just a hair more than that.

I increased the velocity mechanism and it did not change the air leak, the sear mechanism, or get the marker to work.

The problem, as it seems to me, is getting the air in the valve to translate over to the sear mechanism. Because i'm having issues with the on/off pin every time I disassemble the marker, i'm leaning toward an issue in the on/off mechanism. I will attempt to change the oring that surrounds the quad oring and see if that changes anything. Perhaps the oring is just a little to tight and causing the quad oring to "hold onto" the on/off pin?" Not really sure i'm just throwing out ideas that are in my head.

Also, seeing that the marker worked before the previous owner put it on the shelf for 5-6 years, I believe the issue has to be oring related as opposed to a mechanical (check the length of XXX) type of thing. I of course could be wrong as i'm no pro at these things, but why would it work when he put it away and not now if it was a mechanical issue?

*****Actually maybe i'm completely wrong... perhaps it's not firing because the sear is not hitting the on/off pin and that is also why I'm not able to remove the xvalve from the frame without taking the marker apart. If that's the case, how would I test this? I've got a digital micrometer on it's way to me so I can't check the lengths right now, but is there another way to test the functionality of the sear portion that makes contact with the on/off pin?

[Motrin870]

Ok so when manually depressing the back of the sear (that meets the on/off pin), it has to be pressed down all the way to get that credit card length sear pin to protrude through the frame. When pressing the trigger and keeping pressure on the sear portion, the sear does not come all the way up flush with the frame.

Sometimes when I press on the sear (where on/off meets) with a small tool then release, it stays down and does not return to it's neutral position.

When the sear is flush with the frame as if I just removed the valve, the sear pin does not protrude through the frame. Not sure if this is normal on xmags but perhaps it's an indicator of an issue to one of you tech pros.



** Edited. Xvalve works in automag frame.

[Laku]

So that would imply that the problem is not in the valve. It could be improperly adjusted sear. Maybe bent solenoid plunger? Do xmags use rail bushings?

[Motrin870]

Mailing it off to BigEvil to take a look at. At this point it's above my level to tech. The individual who sold me the marker is assisting with cost... Great dude most people don't live by that kind of code!

Big thanks to all who replied trying to help! I'd buy you all a drink if you lived nearby!