Air gushing out of classic

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  • cockerpunk
    Haters Gonna Hate
    • Sep 2004
    • 1383

    #16
    one of the problems with co2 ive seen before is that a small leak becomes a really big leak because of the temperature drop when it expands freezing the oring prevent it from sealing. this makes the leak bigger, which causes more co2 expansion, and round and round we go.

    id try and do your leak testing with compressed air until you get it solved, then if you have to, switch over to co2.
    "because every vengeful cop with a lesbian daughter, is having a bad day, and looking for someone to blame"

    Comment

    • Menace_AO
      AKA Menace
      • Aug 2011
      • 309

      #17
      OP,

      It sounds as though a couple of things may be out of whack at the same time. Try the following:

      1. Remove the valve/bolt assembly.
      2. Look at the bolt and spring. The spring, when correctly installed, should extend beyond the bolt tip. If not, it is overly worn and may be too weak to properly reset the bolt.
      3. Next, orient the valve so that the power tube is facing up, and install the bolt. It should easily slip over the power tube, and then stop short of the bottom and sort of 'float' above the blue washer/bumper. That tells you that the power tube o-ring is properly engaging the bolt stem. If it sits all the way flush, then take a nickel, unscrew the power tube tip, and see if there is either a copper spring or brass spacer down in there. It may be missing, causing the lack of seal, and thus, the leak.

      4. Next, remove the on/off assembly, and remove the pin from the assembly. Inspect the pin. It should be machined and polished cleanly from end to end with no rough spots, gouges, or deep scratches. It also should have a hollow machined into one end, making it look like a ball. This side always faces the sear, and the square end should face the top o-rings in the valve. Next, set the on/off assembly on the table upside down and install the pin so that the ball end is up. When the pin makes contact with the table you should still be able to see the ball end exposed on the top.

      Step #4 is to ensure that the the pin is in good order, i.e., (a) is the correct length to work with the sear to seal the valve [it may have been broken/filed down incorrectly] and (b) has not been installed upside down, which would prevent proper sealing when the trigger is pulled, and (c) has not become so damaged that it cannot seal in any case.

      Good luck, and please keep us posted as to any other symptoms and, especially, what produced a fix.

      Comment

      • athomas
        Of course it works-its AGD
        • Jan 2002
        • 8039

        #18
        Is the rail bushing installed?
        Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

        Comment

        • Bosgarage57
          Registered User
          • Nov 2015
          • 7

          #19
          Where would that be?

          Comment

          • Cyco-Dude

            #20
            Originally posted by Bosgarage57
            Where would that be?
            in the rail, towards the back. it's the 1/4" roll pin that locates the grip frame correctly.

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