Right now my solution is putting a new reg seat in it and going from there. Sandman has already shipped my stuff so when it gets here ill go out to my local field and retune my mag and repost here afterwards when I get done to let everyone know the results.
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Ok guys, posting back up after playing and my mag was still doing the same things, inconsistent from shot to shot. I started the day with the level 10 bolt, level 10 reg piston, red spring, classic on\off, new reg seat installed flared end torwards the reg piston, underbore barrel, new RT-ULE rail\sear\bushing. Cronoed the mag and it started shooting at 258 FPS (red spring looks ideal). Carrier O-ring leaked for about 30 seconds then sealed up but the velocity was again all over the place. I changed to an overbore and the velocity tightened up some but was still +\- 12-15 FPS. I switched back to the level 7 bolt to concentrate on getting my mag shooting right. (better to tune 1 thing at a time than 2). I did notice a scuff on the side of the level 7 reg piston but didn't look inside the reg bore to see if the bore was scuffed. The reg seat is the only seal i've replaced. how much of a difference would the old O-rings in the rest of the valve play a role in the up and down velocity and would or could the reg spring pack be worn out and causing the reg to be inconsistent?Comment
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what kind of underbored barrel?
i found with some barrels when underboring on twist lock guns, that the bolt tip would enter the undebored section and that sticking, would cause eradic velocity. never observed that with the cocker threaded bodies.
if not that, or an issue with the regulator, look at over oiling. some say you can't over oil a mag, but oil in the barrel from being fired through the whole gun, can really mess with both accuracy and consistency."because every vengeful cop with a lesbian daughter, is having a bad day, and looking for someone to blame"Comment
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Hi Gordon, nice to talk to you. The barrel I was using at the start of the day was a 682 Kaner back with a Autococker SR front, went to a 687 Kaner back (both backs gloss polished, paint just rolled right through that one). I did try oiling my mag but with the barrel off and dry fired it till the oil mist was gone then cleaned out the breech on the mainbody.Comment
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If you are using a level 10 bolt, you need to use a barrel that is at least 0.685" id. If the barrel is twistlock, the inner diameter may need to be bigger if the barrel isn't 100% centered due to a loose fitting barrel or a twist lock assembly that is pushing it off center.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Hi athomas, my mag has a ULE body and i'm using threaded barrels.Comment
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You should be able to use a barrel id down to 0.685", but not smaller. The tip of the bolt can rub on the barrel and cause erratic velocity and sticking if you use a smaller barrel id.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Ok, only problem is it was still giving me problems with a .687 back. Athomas do you think the spring pack\reg pin spring\reg pin could be giving me any issues?Comment
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was it still inconsistent after you switched back to the level 7 bolt?Comment
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Vintage, it was. The only reason I switched back to the level 7 was so if the level 10 started giving me issues during the day I wasn't trying to fix 2 problems at the same time. I wanted to get the valve shooting the way it should before I reinstall the level 10 and tune that.Comment
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It is rarely an issue caused by the spring pack or the reg pin. It can happen if the orings are stiff or if there is grit, but with new orings or ones in good condition, those parts rarely cause issues.
What is the condition of the paint?Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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i've used smaller than that with the level 10 and the ULE body with cocker threads, never had an issue. if anything that was the single most consistent setup i have ever seen over a chrono, something like a literal +/-2 fps over 22 shots. not standard deviation of 2, a total range of +/- 2. setup was an X valve, ULE body, .004-.005 smaller than blow test barrel. fantastically consistent and efficient too.Last edited by cockerpunk; 04-21-2016, 07:14 AM."because every vengeful cop with a lesbian daughter, is having a bad day, and looking for someone to blame"Comment
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Hi athomas, paint was fresh Empire Marbilizer
Hi Gordon, I followed up on what athomas said about the bolt contacting the breech end of the barrel so I inserted the level 10 bolt minus the bolt spring into the ule body and the tip of the bolt just barley touched the barrel so I don't think it's going to be an issue.
Gordon, that Xvalve setup you had, did you run a rt on\off or a ult?
From this point forward ill completely rebuild the valve with a fresh oring kit and repost my results after testing.Comment
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The spring will take up some of the distance as well, so you should be fine.
Just because paint is fresh doesn't mean its good. Is it round and all the same size? Most likely it is fine, but it is something to check.
Fresh orings usually solve most issues.
Cockerpunk: I was wondering how far the bolt penetrated into the barrel. I never really checked the distance. I just knew it was too large at the outer diameter of the bolt itself. Its good to know that the distance is fine and it won't be and issue.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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