X-Valve Leaks

[nak81783]

Did rail bushing fall out while you were swapping frames? That should be more of a bolt leak.

Worn sear? It needs to be sharp. Pretty much any perceptible radius can cause a small leak.

Are you tightening frame and field strip screws with wrench? Snug, but don’t strip threads. Does tone/pitch of leak change while tightening or loosening screws? This is indicative of alignment issues.

Do you have an RT on/off? Those are less finicky.

Did you change tiny black middle oring and bottom oring? You seem to think it’s still and on/off issue, and trigger back with no leak doesn’t rule out these two orings.

You seem to be following the other related thread, so perhaps you’ve tried these.

And yes, Tuna is always your best bet.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Good option, but being in Canada makes it costly.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Confirmed it is leaking heavily from on/off. With the frame removed I can feel a strong constant stream of air coming from the on/off.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Only oring I have not replaced is the tiny black one in the on/off. Of course it is not included in the mag rebuild kit and very difficult to find, besides ordering from the US.

[Tunaman]

You did say it still has a minor leak/hiss with the trigger held back when gassed up?

[nak81783]

I forget, is the ULT middle oring a 002 buna 70? 90?

Are you just not sure what size you need?

Does AGD or Tuna ship to Canada? theoringstore.com?

[Cdn_Cuda]

[nak81783]

Pretty sure it’s a 002. If you have calipers or mics, measure the outer diameter of the pin shaft. Match that diameter to ID of the nearest standard/imperial o-ring (not metric).

With minimum order quantity and shipping on the orings, you’ll probably be close to the cost of a standard RT on/off. I would get that and some 002 orings from Tuna or AGD. Try them both (in games, not just tinkering), and sell the one you like less. During the adrenaline of a game, I’ve always preferred the standard RT on/off. It’s a little heavier on the pull, but it’s faster/harder on the reset and a lot less likely to short stroke, which is about the only problem you’ll ever have with a property functioning Mag with properly tuned Level 10.

This isn’t directed at you. It’s just nostalgia. Tom warned us about the drawbacks (short stroking, bent pins, tiny orings, shimming to properly tune) of a ULT decades ago when it was released. Pretty sure he also said he didn’t want to hear any complaining about it when his warnings came to fruition.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Yes, thinking switching to a standard on/off is the best route to go. Thank you, and everyone else, for the help. Really appreciated.