Xvalve Full Auto

[JMG1955]

Hi All,

New to the forum. And newish to Automags. I got a few up and running this last year. I recently purchased what appears to be a new ULE mag with X-valve. I had a couple of leaks, which I was able to handle. Now the gun goes into full auto when i pull the trigger. I'm not running any shims at the moment. Should I switch out the carrier? I wonder if someone can also provide a brief explanation of the shims and carriers?

Thank you,
Jesse

[nak81783]

Concerning full auto:
1. How long is the on/off pin? Should be around .730"-.750" for normal operation. .750" is stock, but sometimes shorter pins are needed for normal operation due to tolerance stack up with other components.
2. What is your input pressure? 750-850 psi is normal operation. Higher than that can cause excessive reactivity in the trigger.
3. What is the distance between the back of the trigger and tip of the trigger rod when the marker is aired up? Should be about the thickness of a credit card.

Some people use these 3 variables to get the gun to "RT" (reactive trigger), which is mechanical bouncing to simulate full auto. This usually still requires the right placement and pressure of the trigger finger. However, if these 3 variables are off, the marker can just go full auto. I believe this is because there is enough "flex" in the components to achieve the RT affect without the proper finger input being required. Full auto is frowned upon and not allowed at most/all fields. I'm not a fan of RT either. Keep it mechanical semi-automatic, or shoot an electro with safer ramping modes.

Shims are only to be used if the Level 10 does not vent when it hits an obstruction. They're rarely needed.

The ID of the carriers (the ID of the brass that contacts the OD of the carrier o-ring - the inner urethane oring that seals on the bolt stem, not the black buna oring on the OD of the carrier) are machined in increments to essentially squeeze the oring tighter on the bolt stem. This is done to account for tolerance differences in orings, adjust for wear in the oring, and it can be (although I wouldn't advise it) used to tune the Level 10 to be easier on paint if it pinches. The reason I wouldn't recommend it is because it's not reliable. The friction varies based on oil, temperature, etc. Just use the various springs or trim a long gray or red spring 1/8 to 1/4 coil at a time to tune this. Honestly, I just use the gold springs, and I never have an issue. Last (late) fall, my Level 10s were easier on paint than my Emek in the cold weather.

These may help understand the function.

[Tunaman]

Level 10 has nothing to do with going full auto. I'll take bets that you left out an oring on the on/off.

[JMG1955]

[athomas]

The main air passage into the front chamber is past the on-off top orings. If it seals here, then the gun doesn't get any more air when the trigger is held in and it cannot cycle. A full auto mag generally indicates that there is a bad oring on the on-off top. Even if the orings have already been replaced, check for defects or dirt and try new ones if you have them.

[JMG1955]

[JMG1955]

IMG_6678.jpg

[JMG1955]

They're there, just not pictured, up in the valve.

[Tunaman]

Check the pin to make sure it didnt break also.

[JMG1955]

Its .75".

Everything else seems okay.

[nak81783]

Two things you may want to try while waiting for your rebuild kit:
1. While holding trigger back, air up marker. Continue holding trigger back to assess. Does it leak down the barrel or go full auto? If not, let the trigger go, and then pull it again. What happens then?
2. Refer to diagram above. Swap o-ring 15 with 20, and swap o-ring 16 with 9. Report if full auto issue goes away and if other problems arise.

[Loguzzzzzz]

Did you check the sear to see of the edge is rounded at all. It doesn't take much.