** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[magman313]

im using a rtp rail and gearheadz body.

[athomas]

im using a rtp rail and gearheadz body.

I don't have any experience with the Gearheadz bodies. The rtp rail should give you the correct spacing for the sear,bolt, and valve interaction, so as long as the body isn't interfering with anything you should be fine.

[magman313]

Would me putting too many shims in my ult cause a problem like this?

[athomas]

Would me putting too many shims in my ult cause a problem like this?

Too many ULT shims could cause the bolt to stick. Usually, it causes a bit of full auto reactivity first, but not always. It depends on your setup. When the ULT causes it to stick, it is usually accompanied with air leaking down the barrel.

[magman313]

i started over and i removed the ult and put in an rt on/off, switched from the gold spring to the red spring, removed all the shims and now i have a blender, my bolt wont stop on anything.... im at a loss for words. im also rting with my tank set to 700 psi.

[athomas]

i started over and i removed the ult and put in an rt on/off, switched from the gold spring to the red spring, removed all the shims and now i have a blender, my bolt wont stop on anything.... im at a loss for words. im also rting with my tank set to 700 psi.

If it is hitting too hard with the red spring, then your velocity is turned up way too high or your regulator seat oring is leaking. Have you cleaned out the valve itself? Its always best to completely clean and check the orings in any new used valve. Are both orings installed above the rt on-off top?

You should move and summarize your info into a thread of its own. It may be more than a basic level 10 issue. Being that its a mag, it won't be anything serious though.

[magman313]

I did that, but I think your like right on point here. the o-ring on top of my rt on/off was no good, I just pulled it out and it crumpled into pieces. also, theres supposed to be two O-rings on top of it? I thought there was only one?

[Stealthpanda]

A smaller oring inside of a larger oring on top of the on/off. Both should be clear. Good to know you are finding things wrong, like combustible orings XD
Thanks,
Jason

[magman313]

ok, im back and my question is, the shims adjust the bolt time resetting correct? I currently have none in and I have no leaks, I also have no idea what my velocity is but if I turn it up too much bolt wont stop on things and when I turn it down to where I think is about the range im going to be shooting at it seems it takes the bolt a second or two to completely reset.

im asking so when I do make it out to the field and crono my gun I know if im thinking correctly or not. thanks again guys

[athomas]

ok, im back and my question is, the shims adjust the bolt time resetting correct? I currently have none in and I have no leaks, I also have no idea what my velocity is but if I turn it up too much bolt wont stop on things and when I turn it down to where I think is about the range im going to be shooting at it seems it takes the bolt a second or two to completely reset.

im asking so when I do make it out to the field and crono my gun I know if im thinking correctly or not. thanks again guys

No, the shims do not adjust the timing. They only adjust the distance that the bolt needs to travel before it can start venting air. This distance needs to be short enough so that any forward movement will allow the bolt to vent air and reset if it hits an object in front of it and needs to reset. The reality is that the shims really don't change the distance enough to matter if the level 10 carrier is setup properly.

When you test the level 10 operation, make sure you are placing the object directly on the front of the bolt face and not more than 1/4" in front of the bolt. If the object is more than 1/4" from the front face, the bolt will strike it with full destructive force and not the reduced level 10 force.

The bolt spring should always be able to push the bolt back to the reset position without hesitation. If the bolt takes a second or two to reset, it usually indicates that the carrier is tight and restricting the bolt movement.

[magman313]

thanks again athomas, I believe im all good to go now.

[TyeStick]

Level 10 issues here.

I think the culprit may be a worn gold spring, as I've tried everything else.
I removed all the shims, and worked my way with the carriers to the best fitted one, with no leaks.

I'll pull the trigger and the lvl10 will kick in, but most often then not, I'll have to reset the bolt by pushing it back.
Aside from being a worn spring, is there anything I should look at?

[Cyco-Dude]

well, if you used the largest (loosest) carrier that doesn't leak (using the same o-ring with the different sized carriers), and the bolt is not resetting after a breech obstruction, i would first oil the lvl 10 o-ring, then if that doesn't help try a different spring. seems like you're on the right track.

i've found the gold spring hits too hard though; it would reset during a breech obstruction but crack the paintball in testing. you may want to try a red spring, or a cut-down silver spring (place cut end towards bolt). or maybe the gold spring i was using was a regular lvl 7 spring...i don't know. use a spring that hits hard enough to push a paintball into a tight bore without resetting, but soft enough that it doesn't crack a paintball if you hold it halfway in the breech.

[athomas]

Level 10 issues here.

I think the culprit may be a worn gold spring, as I've tried everything else.
I removed all the shims, and worked my way with the carriers to the best fitted one, with no leaks.

I'll pull the trigger and the lvl10 will kick in, but most often then not, I'll have to reset the bolt by pushing it back.
Aside from being a worn spring, is there anything I should look at?

A properly working level 10 bolt will always reset, even if the bolt spring is weak. It will just do it a bit slower. You seem to have followed the proper procedure for getting the proper fitting carrier size, so there may be other factors coming into play. As long as you are using the largest carrier size that does not produce a leak using the same white powertube carrier oring, then that is all you can really do for that kind of reset issue.

When you fire the gun and hold the trigger in, how long does it take before the bolt stops weeping air out the front? If the answer is that it never stops, then it is more likely an on-off issue. If it stops after a few seconds (even quite a few), then the problem is that the carrier size is too tight. Having a carrier that is too tight even though it is the largest one that doesn't leak is a result of a bad carrier oring. If that is the case, change the oring and go through the tuning procedure again.

[TyeStick]

When I pull the trigger, it doesn't leak. No matter how long I hold it for. Is that a possible sign of something wrong?