AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
JDaniels, Sorry, I meant to include you on that last post to Darkknightheaven. You probably also need to get a new reg piston from AGD. If you are working fine with the Level 10 but just can't get your velocity up before it vents then it's the reg piston. The Level 10 needs a higher blow-off pressure than the old reg piston will allow.
If you are shooting hot, however, you may not need the reg piston. It is okay to use the stock spring, you just won't get quite the same bounce off of a ball in the breach and may get the occasional chop. I used the stock spring when I was on a classic valve and didn't chop a ball for months at a time.
Ok I get my level 10. I immediately install it. First thing first, I put the backing washer in which it says may be a slight squeeze. Quite the contrary, the washer almost falls all the way through. I figure hey it is seated no biggie just got a slightly smaller one. I pick the carrier that seems to work and slide it in the power tube. I use a piece of macro line to push it into place, didnt have a blunt pen handy. All seemd fine I finish up and go to gas up my gun. It leakes I figure no biggie Ill change the carrier. Nope, the carrier is absolutely stuck in my power tube. It will not clear the threads in the power tube. I have tried everything, I have used extra oil, I have tried to pull it out with my pick, nothing. It will not budge. I am afraid I am going to srape the crap out of my power tube trying to pry this thing out. Has anyone got any idea how to get this thing out?
i have an x-valve, but i dont think that that will make a difference. i was having leaking once my gun broke in, and had to change the carrier. i had the same problem with taking out the carrier, and what i found out works best is to unwind a paperclip and make a small hook at the end, maybe 3mm long. then you can slide it through the carrier, catch the carrier with the hook and pull it out.
xvalve, ule body, logic vert frame, WWA barrel
68/30 PE nitro tank
cp unimount
halo B
Originally posted by Liquid_pjear I am afraid I am going to srape the crap out of my power tube trying to pry this thing out. Has anyone got any idea how to get this thing out?
Edit: Gun is an old school RT
Most people use the Feild strip screw that holds the valve in but that wouldn't work in your case, as you have an original RT. It will seem like you are threading the carrier when you stick the screw down the tip and turn it but it will only take hold and not actually ruin the carrier or o-rings. It may be worth ordering one or checking around locally to see if you can get one.
ok, wen i pull the trigger the gun jus goes like ..pddpd almost like it isnt getting enough pressure, but i turned it way more then it should need. the veloctiy screw has only like 2 threads showing. i tride different springs and different carriers. i have the one with 1 line and 1 dot in, and the one with 2 lines leaks. but the gun doesnt work with the one wih 2 lines, it does the same thing. wat should i do?
If they dont have paintball in heaven...I'm not going
"Bling Bling" and "ice"....225.50
baby blue Southpole gear...348.39
Timberlands................110.45
Relizing your white.....PRICELESS
Joe: "Ya, I jus got a Palmer Female Stabalizer"
Bob: "Really, I could use one of those"
Joe: "Why, you dont play paintball"
Bob: "No, I mean for my wife"
ok im a dumbass. when i was doing this i was working on this pnuematic trigger frame. i had the frame off the gun, and i put 2 2 screws back in with out the trigger frame so i could gas the gun up and shoot it by taking an allen wrnch and pushing the sear. but the front screw was all the way up in the gun (no barre) and the bolt was hiting the screw and bouncing off. go ahead make fun. but the pnuematic trigger works and kicks ***
If they dont have paintball in heaven...I'm not going
"Bling Bling" and "ice"....225.50
baby blue Southpole gear...348.39
Timberlands................110.45
Relizing your white.....PRICELESS
Joe: "Ya, I jus got a Palmer Female Stabalizer"
Bob: "Really, I could use one of those"
Joe: "Why, you dont play paintball"
Bob: "No, I mean for my wife"
Okay, I'm still having issues with this Original RT.
1) I installed the carrier that it recomended
2) When re-assembled, the marker would not fire, it would leak out the velocity nut.
3) Tried many different carrier/shim combos. No avail.
4) Tried different springs, no avail.
5) Tried my e-mag piston, it seemed to work slightly better, but would still not fire consistantly.
5.5) Put the O.RT piston in my e-mag, would not fire reliably.
6) Put the O.RT piston back in the O.RT, it now fires 2-3 times, then it re-charges very slowly, then kicks the trigger back out. Sometimes I can fire a string of 10-12 shots (velocity unknown), but then it dies, slowly recharges.
6.5) Somestimes the trigger just goes limp, or spongy.
6.6) Tightening the field strip screw helps, but I can't get anything consistant..
Can someone recomend something plz!? I need this working for my team-mate.
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An All AGD team in Central B.C. on its way. -- Tom Kaye, plz help!
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By the looks of things, it appears to be trigger rod length related! I lengthened the trigger rod 2 turns (length??) and re-installed it... it rips now! Now to see if I can put my old RT piston back in..
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An All AGD team in Central B.C. on its way. -- Tom Kaye, plz help!
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