** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[bry10bry]

still leaking

I have in the smallest carrier no shims still leaks. I hear it the most when I put my ear up to the trigger. How snug should that tiny black o-ring be on the pin itself? I'm usually pretty good at this sort of stuff.. but i'm stumped on this one...
..
..
UPDATE.. okay i found a cracked plastic ring spacer thingy it goes between the 2 o-rings on the end of the regulator valve pin assembly as shown here http://www.airgun.com/downloads/retroexploded1.pdf
Could this be the cause of my leak?
Can you even order that part?

Thanks.. newB

[athomas]

I have in the smallest carrier no shims still leaks. I hear it the most when I put my ear up to the trigger. How snug should that tiny black o-ring be on the pin itself? I'm usually pretty good at this sort of stuff.. but i'm stumped on this one...
..
..
UPDATE.. okay i found a cracked plastic ring spacer thingy it goes between the 2 o-rings on the end of the regulator valve pin assembly as shown here http://www.airgun.com/downloads/retroexploded1.pdf
Could this be the cause of my leak?
Can you even order that part?

Thanks.. newB

The tiny cracked oring is actually a plastic spacer with a split in it. It is made like that.

A level 10 carrier leak would be heard from the front of the body or from the feed tube more than from the trigger area. A leak that is more pronounced from the on-off area is related to the two lower orings in the on-off assembly.

If you are getting a carrier oring leak with the smallest carrier installed, use a new oring and go through the level 10 tuning process again.

[rhino271]

RT Pro Problem

Have an RT Pro with Level 10 bolt. Bought the marker new around 01 and put the level 10 in late 03 I believe. Never had any problems with the marker and thought was the greatest thing since sliced bread. Unfortunatley I had to put the marker into storage first part of 04. Everything was perfectly upkept oiled and taken care of, even before put into storage. Finally got a chance to get back into paintball this week so I recovered my RT pro did a basic wipe down and re-oil. DID NOT TAKE THE VALVE APART AT THIS POINT!!! First time I aired up the system and pulled the trigger marker went full auto on me. Since that time I've tried every spacer, every shim, every spring, and every combination thereof that I could think of. Even put he original level 7 back on the valve. Changed every o-ring in the valve. But still all I get is air down the barrel or ocassional full auto without even touching the trigger. I appreciate any help any one can give me.

[athomas]

Have an RT Pro with Level 10 bolt. Bought the marker new around 01 and put the level 10 in late 03 I believe. Never had any problems with the marker and thought was the greatest thing since sliced bread. Unfortunatley I had to put the marker into storage first part of 04. Everything was perfectly upkept oiled and taken care of, even before put into storage. Finally got a chance to get back into paintball this week so I recovered my RT pro did a basic wipe down and re-oil. DID NOT TAKE THE VALVE APART AT THIS POINT!!! First time I aired up the system and pulled the trigger marker went full auto on me. Since that time I've tried every spacer, every shim, every spring, and every combination thereof that I could think of. Even put he original level 7 back on the valve. Changed every o-ring in the valve. But still all I get is air down the barrel or ocassional full auto without even touching the trigger. I appreciate any help any one can give me.

If the problem persists even after you put a level 7 bolt in, then the problem is not level 10 related and should be listed in the tech section under its own heading.

Full auto is generally attributed to the sear and on-off area of the gun. If you already replaced the orings, then the top on-off orings are probably good. Check your sear for wear. That will cause full auto. Have you replaced the bolt spring? It shouldn't cause full auto, but needs to be replaced on a regular basis.

What happens when you hold the trigger? Are there leaks out the front? A leak here would indicate a bad on-off top oring.

[rhino271]

If the problem persists even after you put a level 7 bolt in, then the problem is not level 10 related and should be listed in the tech section under its own heading.

Full auto is generally attributed to the sear and on-off area of the gun. If you already replaced the orings, then the top on-off orings are probably good. Check your sear for wear. That will cause full auto. Have you replaced the bolt spring? It shouldn't cause full auto, but needs to be replaced on a regular basis.

What happens when you hold the trigger? Are there leaks out the front? A leak here would indicate a bad on-off top oring.

The full auto primarily only happened the first time I aired the marker up. The main problem I am getting now is either no pressure getting to the trigger at all (which is why I don't think sear", or air down the front regardless of how much I adjust the pressure regulator. As I said I've used every length spring I have along with trying every spacer. When I put the level 7 back in I'm not positive I had the right bottom o-ring that goes in the power tube because you could tell my bolt would not quite seat all the way unless pushed.

Springs and on-off oring were my first thoughts and first thing I checked only other possible thing I can think of is just that after sitting in storage for so long even my replacement orings are just a little to hard to. They were still in their original zip lock back with just a little marker oil on them.

Thanks and I'll check it agin when I get home from work.

[rhino271]

The full auto primarily only happened the first time I aired the marker up. The main problem I am getting now is either no pressure getting to the trigger at all (which is why I don't think sear", or air down the front regardless of how much I adjust the pressure regulator. As I said I've used every length spring I have along with trying every spacer. When I put the level 7 back in I'm not positive I had the right bottom o-ring that goes in the power tube because you could tell my bolt would not quite seat all the way unless pushed.

Springs and on-off oring were my first thoughts and first thing I checked only other possible thing I can think of is just that after sitting in storage for so long even my replacement orings are just a little to hard to. They were still in their original zip lock back with just a little marker oil on them.

Thanks and I'll check it agin when I get home from work.

athomas,

thanks for the help. Pulled the marker apart again today and decided to check the sear, didn't notice it first time but the sear cracked just above the pivot sleeve. Have a new one ordered and hopefully that should fix my problem. thanks again!!!

[athomas]

The main problem I am getting now is either no pressure getting to the trigger at all (which is why I don't think sear", or air down the front regardless of how much I adjust the pressure regulator.

No pressure on the trigger is a sign of bolt stick in the level 10. That means you need to use a larger carrier with the same carrier oring. Use the largest one that doesn't leak. Don't use any shims when checking it our.

[flyboy]

Emag leaks, Full auto in mech mode

I've read through this thread a couple of times and Have done a lot of the recomended things here but I still can't get this marker to shoot right.

It's a stock emag with Level 10 and 3.2 software. After firing several shots I get a big leak down the barrel. I'm on a size zero carrier now and have tried the .5 and 1 which didnt make much difference. I've also tried different numbers of shims and noticed that at 2 shimes it began chopping paint so I went back to 3. The red bolt spring did seem to help, but I never tried the gold one.

Dry firing works fine. I can shoot it all day with no paint and get no leaks. But the second I add paint, it starts messing up.

I also found yesterday, that in mech mode the marker shoots full auto.

I'm getting close to either sending it back to AGD for an overhaul if I cn't figure this out soon.

I'm just glad my other emag runs like a sweing machine.

[athomas]

I've read through this thread a couple of times and Have done a lot of the recomended things here but I still can't get this marker to shoot right.

It's a stock emag with Level 10 and 3.2 software. After firing several shots I get a big leak down the barrel. I'm on a size zero carrier now and have tried the .5 and 1 which didnt make much difference. I've also tried different numbers of shims and noticed that at 2 shimes it began chopping paint so I went back to 3. The red bolt spring did seem to help, but I never tried the gold one.

Dry firing works fine. I can shoot it all day with no paint and get no leaks. But the second I add paint, it starts messing up.

I also found yesterday, that in mech mode the marker shoots full auto.

I'm getting close to either sending it back to AGD for an overhaul if I cn't figure this out soon.

I'm just glad my other emag runs like a sweing machine.

Remove all the shims when setting the level 10 up. Too many can cause a leak that may result in you having to use a carrier that is too tight. A carrier that is too tight will cause bolt stick and leaking down the barrel.

Shims don't affect the chopping of paint. If your gun is chopping it is caused by something else.

Start at the beginning.

1) Remove all shims.
2) Use the largest carrier that does not leak. Always use the same white powertube oring.
3) Use the red bolt spring.
4) Turn the velocity up to allow you to shoot 280fps.
5) If you wish to use shims do so now. Add shims one at a time until you get a leak, then remove the one that caused the leak. Many people don't use shims at all and have never had problems. If you do fire, hit a blockage, and the bolt doesn't reset, then add a shim. Bolt stick following a shot is not shim related.

If you can't get an carrier that is small enough to stop any leaking, then change carrier orings and start the tuning process again.

[Rusher360]

problem

i just put in the ULT and now when i let the trigger bounce and shoot fast the bolt makes the sound like when it just backed off of a paintball, you know the kinda pssshvvvv sound. it recocks and everything but this happens every 20 to 25 shots and its getting annoying . o and when this happens there is no paint in it.

*sorry if this is in the wrong thread i wasn't sure if it should go here or the ULT thread, but being as it is the lvl 10 bolt i put it here

thanks

[athomas]

i just put in the ULT and now when i let the trigger bounce and shoot fast the bolt makes the sound like when it just backed off of a paintball, you know the kinda pssshvvvv sound. it recocks and everything but this happens every 20 to 25 shots and its getting annoying . o and when this happens there is no paint in it.

*sorry if this is in the wrong thread i wasn't sure if it should go here or the ULT thread, but being as it is the lvl 10 bolt i put it here

thanks

Sounds like you are short stroking the gun. If the trigger gets pulled too soon after the on-off resets, the pressure in the chamber won't be high enough to properly cycle the gun and it could chuff, which is the sound you are hearing. If you are going to bounce the trigger, you need a higher input pressure to charge the chamber faster. If not, then you need to fully release the trigger before the next shot. Add a ULT shim and your problem should also go away, but you will not bounce the trigger near as easily.

[Rusher360]

thanks alot for the answer athomas
could you or someone else then tell me how to increase the input pressure? does it have to do with the tank or my xvalve or what

[athomas]

thanks alot for the answer athomas
could you or someone else then tell me how to increase the input pressure? does it have to do with the tank or my xvalve or what

you need an adjustable tank to be able to increase the tank pressure. You can add shims to the spring packs of some of the none adjustable tanks.

Trigger bounce is generally not a ULT trait. If your tank pressure output is not high, it generally means your ULT is not quite setup right or you have a worn sear tip. Some have gotten trigger bounce with the right setup of shims and high tank pressure.

[Rusher360]

well i have an output pressure of 850 psi on my tank which is pretty standard. i guess if i want to keep the bounce ill need to go to 1000 or 1100 output.

only problem is ill be out of air before the game even starts

ill probably add a shim and lose the bounce

[athomas]

well i have an output pressure of 850 psi on my tank which is pretty standard. i guess if i want to keep the bounce ill need to go to 1000 or 1100 output.

only problem is ill be out of air before the game even starts

ill probably add a shim and lose the bounce

No, you remove a ULT shim to reduce the bounce.