** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[athomas]

When I pull the trigger, it doesn't leak. No matter how long I hold it for. Is that a possible sign of something wrong?

No, that is good. It means your on-off is working properly and the problem is isolated to the powertube area. Try a new oring and keep increasing the carrier size until it produces a leak. Then use the previous one that didn't leak.

Are you using a stock AGD body and rail? When you dry fire, does the bolt reset? When you hold your hand over the end of the barrel and dry fire, does the bolt reset? When you hold the front of the bolt with your finger and pull the trigger, does it chuff and then reset?

[TyeStick]

Are you using a stock AGD body and rail? When you dry fire, does the bolt reset? When you hold your hand over the end of the barrel and dry fire, does the bolt reset? When you hold the front of the bolt with your finger and pull the trigger, does it chuff and then reset?

I'm using a stock, ULE body, but an aftermarket rail. I'm using a rail from Luke's Customs. When I fire the marker, the bolt resets. When holding my hand over the end of the barrel and fire, the bolt resets.
When I hold the front of the bolt, and pull the trigger it chuffs and resets.

[athomas]

I'm using a stock, ULE body, but an aftermarket rail. I'm using a rail from Luke's Customs. When I fire the marker, the bolt resets. When holding my hand over the end of the barrel and fire, the bolt resets.
When I hold the front of the bolt, and pull the trigger it chuffs and resets.

Those tests indicate that everything is working the way it should. Under what circumstances did it not reset? ie; Did it fire a ball and then not reset, or did it jam on a ball and not reset, etc? If it jammed on a ball and didn't reset, did it "chuff" when it did it?

Is the body sitting flat on the rail? Make sure the pim on the bottom of the body isn't bottoming out in the trigger frame screw hole area. Also, don't over torque the field strip screw. It can warp the valve - body - rail alignment.

[The Ritual]

Thank you, athomas! Your consistent replies to these most recent posts has allowed me effectively troubleshoot my own issues.

I discovered that my sear/trigger rod, though new and direct from AGD, was a bit too long for my intelliframe. I was having issues with the on/off until I adjusted the length based on the trigger pulled back with the safety engaged. (credit card thickness now)

I was then able to deal with my Level X issues, which turned out to be 1 carrier size too small. I was able to move up to the next carrier size( from 1 line to 1 line/1 dot) without leaking, whilst addressing bolt stick issues. She is now airtight and fires consistently without issues so far.

[athomas]

Thank you, athomas! Your consistent replies to these most recent posts has allowed me effectively troubleshoot my own issues.

I discovered that my sear/trigger rod, though new and direct from AGD, was a bit too long for my intelliframe. I was having issues with the on/off until I adjusted the length based on the trigger pulled back with the safety engaged. (credit card thickness now)

I was then able to deal with my Level X issues, which turned out to be 1 carrier size too small. I was able to move up to the next carrier size( from 1 line to 1 line/1 dot) without leaking, whilst addressing bolt stick issues. She is now airtight and fires consistently without issues so far.

Thanks for posting your findings, your fix, and results. It helps others as well.

[magman313]

ive got a slight leak down the barrel on my valve, thought I had it tuned good went to shoot it today and this, the thing though is that if I slightly hold the trigger no leak... im guessing I have the wrong carrier size?

ive got a x-valve lvl 10 and I just changed all the O-rings in the valve. first time I shot it no leaks, could it be the carrier o-ring loosing up from being broke in giving me the wrong size carrier now?

[TyeStick]

Hey Thomas, I think the issue that I'm having with my Mag is due to the usage of using brittle paint. I'm talking paint that breaks from dropping it from a foot above the ground. I won't be able to confirm until I take my mag back to the field.

[athomas]

ive got a slight leak down the barrel on my valve, thought I had it tuned good went to shoot it today and this, the thing though is that if I slightly hold the trigger no leak... im guessing I have the wrong carrier size?

This is generally related to having too many shims installed. When you slightly hold the trigger, it starts to push the bolt back which moves the bolt stem vent hole away from the sealing edge of the carrier oring. If you remove the shims, it will allow the carrier and oring to sit farther forward which will allow the bolt stem vent hole to always be far enough behind the sealing edge of the carrier oring so that it never leaks.

[magman313]

no shims are installed

[athomas]

no shims are installed

That means something else is causing your bolt to be too far forward. It can only be the sear or the position of the valve on the rail. If everything is genuine AGD, and new, then something is out of spec. You can adjust the parameters. Shave a tiny bit off the back of the powertube tip. That will allow the carrier to sit farther forward and keep the bolt stem vent hole from being exposed. Only do this if you are sure that everything else is in new condition.

[magman313]

ill try putting my valve into a different mag, if I still have a problem I guess ill get ahold of tuna

[magman313]

so I think I just might be special or my power tube tip wasn't tightened all the way. its fine that is all right now, back to the other valve I go, hopefully you don't have to hear from me for a while

[athomas]

so I think I just might be special or my power tube tip wasn't tightened all the way. its fine that is all right now, back to the other valve I go, hopefully you don't have to hear from me for a while

Hmmm. A loose powertube tip should have allowed the carrier to sit farther forward allowing the sealing edge of the oring to remain in front of the vent hole and preventing a leak rather than making one. Maybe it being loose was more of an issue. I'm glad its working now, though.

[hunterp]

Bolt occasionally sticks? Next size up in carrier leaks.

My setup is an X-valve with ULT on/off. The rest is pretty damn close to stock minimag + intelliframe. The air comes from a ninja SHP pushing ~1200 psi.

About once every 100 shots or so my bolt is having trouble resetting. The gun will shoot, then hiss down the barrel with a limp trigger for a second or three before resetting. I think it happens more often while rapid firing (?).

I've have been using the longest, red spring.

Before this issue came about, I was using the next-half-sized-up carrier. While pressurized, the gun was prone to leaking down the barrel. This leaking would stop when the trigger had some pressure on it - both before and after the gun shot. Power tube oil would fix the leak temporarily, but it would come back within a pod or two. I think even while using this leaky-sized carrier, the medium-sized spring was sometimes having trouble resetting the bolt.

Is it accurate to label what I'm describing as bolt stick? What can I try to do to reduce this given I'm at the biggest carrier that doesnt leak and using the longest spring?

Thanks so much!

[Cyco-Dude]

is your bolt spring old or worn out? is your grip frame screw too tight, or quickstrip screw too tight (or too loose)? it could cause the valve and body to be mis-aligned. double check that your rail bushing is in the rail. search the tech forum for bolt stick, if you haven't already. there are dozens of threads; you might be able to dig something up.