AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
How'd you time the test? If it was for more than a fraction of a second then the 12v warp will only feed as fast as the HALO because if your using good sized paint and lubed disks, the disks should slip past the balls(it's unnoticeable) while it's waiting for the HALO to catch up so it's only as fast as the HALO.
leaving batteries in the warp will drain something like 4volts a month(slower with a bigger cell) so yes fresh batteries are key
I just purchased a used Warp Feed. After I cleaned it and got it back together I hooked it up to my RT and was tunning it in when I noticed smoke coming from the board. I then really tried to remove as much paint as possible and tried it again. I still noticed the smoke. I then felt around and the top left... thingy ?(Q1) was realy hot. When the motor is running the... thingy ? cools off. I am using a 9V batterie.
Is the board on the edge of burning out or just Q1? Is this normal? Could I glue a small heat sink onto Q1?
I do not have a Iframe, what do I need to do, to hook up a micro switch to activat the Warp Feed?
Welcome to my mind. Be carefull were you step because the floor is kinda sllipery.
A.K.A Ducky DC (on other forums)
A.K.A Odie Wan (on other forums)
Yes it is on the edge of burning out. It's not normal and no you can't use heatsinks.
I then really tried to remove as much paint as possible and tried it again.
paintballs in the warp?
was smoke coming from Q1 itself or it's solder connections? does it look like there was any resoldering? Is the solder touching and closing a connection between two independent pins?
I do not have a Iframe, what do I need to do, to hook up a micro switch to activat the Warp Feed?
even if you did, you would still have this little problem of yours.
When the previous owner had it, a paintball hit the warp feed where the button is and sprayed paint up inside. the smoke is comming from ither the remaining paint under Q1 or Q1 itself.
Welcome to my mind. Be carefull were you step because the floor is kinda sllipery.
A.K.A Ducky DC (on other forums)
A.K.A Odie Wan (on other forums)
which way does the 90 degree adapter go on, I'm trying to set mine up to use on an angel tomarrow yet am cluless and can't get this to go. If somebody could post a pic or explain to me how I get the 90 adapter to work. Thanks
I got a new warp two days ago, and after using it all day on Sunday, I noticed that the friction disks aren't quite straight anymore - the bottom one seems to be a little bit warped - not hugely noticable, but you can see it's not straight anymore. Is this normal?
CNC9D
if the board hasnt completely fried by now, you need to get all of the paint out of the board and see if that does the trick. If it does or has fried, the easiest thing to do would be to buy a new board.
Shirow
as long as it's loading you should be fine.
SI|ENT|3O|3
yeap, same as you would a revy. Dont worry about the sensor, it wont ruin. Just make sure it's dry before trying to use it again.
JodoCast
on some warps, the 12v mod needs a capacitor(100uf) to get rid of the "noise" that gets through the regulator, that should do the trick.
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