Intellilink hyperframe to warp with common battery

[xen_100]

actually it doesn't (at least not on the boo-yaah/mako grips)

the noid gets 9V(or battery) on one side and the control circuit grounds the other side to fire the gun.(so it is a switched ground from the circuit) The trigger switch has ground on one side and 5v on the other(goes to the control board) you cant just tap into the 5v side because the warp circuit and the control board on the grip interact in bad ways. (hence the need for isolation) trust me, the 9 volts present on the warp connector tip and the 5 volt logic on the control circuit of the grip makes it imposible to fire the gun. it just never gets close enough to ground to fire.

[sniper1rfa]

right, forgot about the 5V thing.

oh well, no prime, but it could still work off the solenoid relay. :-)

/me going to go to bed

[xen_100]

that it could..........

and you could prime it the old fasion way........and reach WAY over and push the little button.....lol

[sniper1rfa]

not cool!

[NPP]

Having tried just about everything Hi-tech tried with the same results and in the end giving up, it would be great if you could post pictures of the finished article as I am not the most technical of people.

Also has anyone thought of a cunning plan for all those wires running from the warp to the hyperframe? Only pulled them off the connections three times and once at the Campaign Cup last year 2 minutes before a game!! Great timing.

[sniper1rfa]

just run a lead from one of the solenoid wires (it shouldnt matter, but you should test it before soldering) to the tip of the connector. that will probably work, though im not sure.

[xen_100]

no, that would not work. you need to do it the way the pict above shows, with a relay. otherwise you could end up hurting your warp. you can do it my way too........complettely fool proof.

[hitech]

Originally posted by sniper1rfa
Plus, mines waaaaaaaaay easier to do.

Where were you when I was trying to hook mine up! I never thought about trying it that way.

[sniper1rfa]

dunno, i did it about a month ago maybe. did it completely accidentaly, actually.

[hitech]

Actually I'm surprised I didn't think of it. As soon as I read what you did I thought "of course". When I was trying to do it with the + solenoid pules I noticed that having just the + wire hooked up to the center post caused the warp to spin continuously (since it's the ground on the solenoid that is switched, not the +). Since I realized that the ground was switched, you would think I would have tried it. Oh well, I was in to big of a hurry. At least it works now.

[sniper1rfa]

thats how i did it. i just tapped each lead seperately to the sleeve and the post (innuendo!) till it worked.

[hitech]

You should have seen me when I was trying out the diodes. Everything just barely attached and me needing four hands. It was quite a sit I'm sure. I gave up when I let the smoke out of one of the diodes.

[sniper1rfa]

i have four (count them, four) warp boards that i fried. three are fixed, and one is still toast. :-) it has no majick smoke left.

[hostage]

I intellified my warp a long time ago, even posted a FAQ. Its a great idea, I messed around with attaching both warp and booyaah to the same power source, but I thought it was not worth it. One problem I found that occured when intellifying the warp to the mag is if you run a 18v mod etc to the hopper then you can run into some issues. My friend got a modded warp and it continued to spin, it only worked when we had 2 other warps that worked fine and we found the only difference being the extra battery. We took the extra 9v out and sure enough it worked. I need to add that to my FAQ, Hightech, would you like me to post up your imformation on my FAQ, with a note reffering to you?
-Doron

[sniper1rfa]

what about me and xen? there are three different solutions to the same problem here.