Hyperframe FAQ

**hitech** · 04-28-2006, 02:57 PM

Originally posted by nevtangle

Thanks once again hitech. It does have trigger stops so that sounds like the problem. I'll check to make sure I have a gap between the switch and the trigger stop. Other than that maybe a new switch?

BTW, you don't need a gap to make it work. You just need one to be SURE the switch is not making contact. Once you get it to power on you could adjust the stop to just a little before it fires.

If you have an ohm meter you could unplug the switch from the board and test it if if appears to be bad.

**nevtangle** · 04-28-2006, 03:32 PM

Originally posted by hitech

BTW, you don't need a gap to make it work. You just need one to be SURE the switch is not making contact. Once you get it to power on you could adjust the stop to just a little before it fires.

If you have an ohm meter you could unplug the switch from the board and test it if if appears to be bad.

I'm thinking its a bad switch because even though there is no gap the switch isn't engaged. I'll have to test it I guess.

Thanks
-N

**nevtangle** · 04-28-2006, 09:32 PM

Originally posted by hitech

That sounds like the switch is engaged (switch contacts inside the switch are making contact) when you power it on. I don't remember if lukes triggers have trigger stops. But if it does then the return stop is too tight. If they don't verify that there is a slight gap between the trigger back and the switch "button". If there is not then pull off the grip panels and loosen the screws that hold the switch in place and see if you can get a gap.

If it still doesn't power up try removing the switch (leave the wires attached and it plugged into the board) and make sure nothing is touching the contacts on the back of the switch and try powering it on. If that works then something is holding the switch closed enough to make contact (or the contacts on the back of the switch were somehow shorted). If not, well then I don't know...

Good luck.

It doesn't seem to be the switch. I adjusted the stops so there was a gap - board won't turn on.
Took the switch out and left connected to the board - board won't turn on.
Took the switch apart to make sure the contact points weren't sticking. Checked the solder points for a short. The switch seems to be ok.

So what does this mean? The switch is definately not engaged when I try to turn the board on. It is still refusing to power up. I was really hoping it would be as simple as you said.
Could it have died from natural causes? I just don't know what could have fried this board. No moisture got in it and it went from working to not firing to not turning off, and now won't turn on.

**nevtangle** · 04-28-2006, 10:05 PM

I got it working!!! Disconnected the battery for over 15 min to reset the board and its working again. Hugh sigh of relief... thought my board was dead.

**hitech** · 04-29-2006, 11:51 AM

Glad to hear you got it to work. Maybe your experience will help others. I'll add it to the FAQ at the top if you don't mind.

**nevtangle** · 04-29-2006, 02:27 PM

Originally posted by hitech

Glad to hear you got it to work. Maybe your experience will help others. I'll add it to the FAQ at the top if you don't mind.

Don't mind at all. This Hyperframe FAQ is great. Its helped me out a lot and I'm sure other will be able to benefit from it.

**mobsterboy** · 06-06-2006, 09:44 AM

what aftermarket boards are compatible and small enough for the hyperframe?
I know that morlocks are, but size difference btw the morlock/minimorlock? Ive heard ppl used a predator nme board...any input would be appreciated

**hitech** · 06-06-2006, 10:05 AM

I don't have any experience with any aftermarket boards, sorry...

The Hyperframe does have a fair amount of room inside and uses a micro switch, so it should work with most aftermarket boards. But as I said...

**Coralis** · 06-06-2006, 01:21 PM

I had a similar problem to nevetangles what i found was the problem was that the soldier leads on the board were very long and would short out against the frame on occasion, so i trimmed the down some with a pair of side cutters also used some plastic orings to prevent the screws holding the board down from backing out

**Disruptor** · 07-30-2006, 09:15 PM

Hyperframe and lvlx chuffin every other trigger pull

Hey folks,I have an issue and am in search of help. Ok here is the situation. I recently acquired a used hyperframe sans centerflag on/off. Was informed by Dennis that I needed an RT on off with .670 on off pin. Acquired same. Installed on stock minimag valve with shocktech rear section. Valve has upgraded spring pack to accompany lvlX. When triggered using an allen wrench through the sear access hole in the frame, fires everytime. Using the trigger I only get a full shot every other pull. I had to sand the solonoid just to get the frame to shoot at all as there was oxidation on the plunger. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

**surfbum** · 07-30-2006, 09:21 PM

Originally posted by Disruptor

Hey folks,I have an issue and am in search of helo. Ok here is the situation. I recently acquired a used hyperframe sans centerflag on/off. Was informed by Dennis that I needed an RT on off with .670 on off pin. Acquired same. Installed on stock minimag valve with shocktech rear section. Valve has upgraded spring pack to accompany lvlX. When triggered using an allen wrench through the sear access hole in the frame, fires everytime. Using the trigger I only get a full shot every other pull. I had to sand the solonoid just to get the frame to shoot at all as there was oxidation on the plunger. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

make sure the service settings on your hyperframe are correct
it sounds like you need to send more power to the solenoid

consult the beginning of this thread for recommended settings

**hitech** · 07-30-2006, 10:16 PM

With the level 10 you will probably only be able to use the shortest spring with the RT on/off. A ULT is a much better option. You also need to make sure the solenoid is aligned properly. See the FAQ at the top for instructions.

**Disruptor** · 07-31-2006, 08:34 AM

Setting for Stock board

Thanks for all the replies, does anyone know the settings for a stock board?
When I get into the program mode, all I get is the setting for 5 0* I have it set to 09, the highest setting allowed. Can anyone provde more information on getting to other settings?
My biggest issue is that it works fine on slow semi, but burtst , hyper, or long rapid strings is when I see the problem.

**hitech** · 07-31-2006, 09:38 AM

There isn't much you can do with the stock board. Set the only number avaiable to the highest number. It controls the "energy" going to the solenoid. You can't control the dwell, etc.

**nevtangle** · 07-31-2006, 10:24 AM

Originally posted by hitech

With the level 10 you will probably only be able to use the shortest spring with the RT on/off. A ULT is a much better option. You also need to make sure the solenoid is aligned properly. See the FAQ at the top for instructions.

hitech,
Just wondering why you said he would probably only be able to use the shortest spring w/ the lvl 10. I'm curious about this because I've heard this somewhere before and I've been using the longest spring. I'm wondering if this was causing a lot of my chuffing issues (which got a lot better with the new settings mentioned above) I still experience the occasional chuff here and there during rapid fire. I wonder if going to the red spring or the shortest spring would fix this completely? Can you shed some light on this for me?

Hyperframe FAQ

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