Hyperframe FAQ

[MrBlack]

Ok I have a question for everyone. I have one of the origional hyperframes and I put in a new fresh 9v and the darn thing will not turn on. the old battery that I pulled out was working but slow. I am wondering if the solder from the battery connector is failing. any ideas?

[p8ntbal4me]

Ok I have a question for everyone. I have one of the origional hyperframes and I put in a new fresh 9v and the darn thing will not turn on. the old battery that I pulled out was working but slow. I am wondering if the solder from the battery connector is failing. any ideas?

You mean the solder on the board for the connector?

I dont think it would as it has small pins that drop into holes on the board and then are soldered in place. You (or someone else that owned it) would have to pry on that connector really hard to pull it out. You would notice damage like that without fail.

If you ment the connector on the battery snap that connects to the board,... its a pressed/crimped fitting. So I would check it, but rule it out rather quick.

The only thing I would check though is the battery snap itself. Over time, they tend to get weak from normal plugging and un-plugging of the battery. Exspecially if you are doing a mod and have to test it often. I would ditch the snap you have and re-solder in a new one if it looks too old or worn.

If you have some money to spend (no more than $100) I would HIGHLY recommend contacting Damon of Scenario Dreams for getting a better board.

If you ever wanted to have your body (ULE if you have one) drilled for eyes, the board would come redy for them, and he sells them as well in just about every color.

Im going to give a look and see which one might drop in,... somewhere on here someone did this mod. Pretty simple if I remember correctly.

If you do go this route and you find parts wont match (say the connector for the clapper noid isnt the same) post back on here and shoot me a PM. I had a copy of the Hyperframe noid made but with the new 2-pin connector found in all the newer boards. (pictured below is a scan of actual part)

~ P8nt

[p8ntbal4me]

Sweet! got my hyperframe working. Has anyone tried a virtue board in a hyperframe? Or is the T-Board the best way to go?

Hey Guys!

I got board today so I tackled this hyperframe/board replacement issues.

Go here to see the guide.

~ P8nt

[MrBlack]

I like that.. I might just do that instead of messing with the stock board and trying to contact CenterFlag.

http://www.google.com/products?q=APE+Rampage+A-5+Board&ie=UTF-8&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1

I just want to make sure that this is the correct one that you are talking about.

[p8ntbal4me]

I like that.. I might just do that instead of messing with the stock board and trying to contact CenterFlag.

http://www.google.com/products?q=APE+Rampage+A-5+Board&ie=UTF-8&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1

I just want to make sure that this is the correct one that you are talking about.

Yep. They all look like the ones I used.

One thing I will say though,.. I have bought a few boards from APE. Jim and his crew have service that is top notch. I have bought 1 board for another gun through a dealer and it didnt work due to a bad part. Jim ate the cost of shipping both ways and had a new board to me in less than a week.

You buy from APE,.. you will be taken care of. Thats just how they do business.

If you happen to get the Pro-E board instead of the A-5 version,.. the guide is still the same.

Good Luck!

~ P8nt

[MrBlack]

You mean the solder on the board for the connector?

I dont think it would as it has small pins that drop into holes on the board and then are soldered in place. You (or someone else that owned it) would have to pry on that connector really hard to pull it out. You would notice damage like that without fail.

If you ment the connector on the battery snap that connects to the board,... its a pressed/crimped fitting. So I would check it, but rule it out rather quick.

The only thing I would check though is the battery snap itself. Over time, they tend to get weak from normal plugging and un-plugging of the battery. Exspecially if you are doing a mod and have to test it often. I would ditch the snap you have and re-solder in a new one if it looks too old or worn.

If you have some money to spend (no more than $100) I would HIGHLY recommend contacting Damon of Scenario Dreams for getting a better board.

If you ever wanted to have your body (ULE if you have one) drilled for eyes, the board would come redy for them, and he sells them as well in just about every color.

Im going to give a look and see which one might drop in,... somewhere on here someone did this mod. Pretty simple if I remember correctly.

If you do go this route and you find parts wont match (say the connector for the clapper noid isnt the same) post back on here and shoot me a PM. I had a copy of the Hyperframe noid made but with the new 2-pin connector found in all the newer boards. (pictured below is a scan of actual part)

~ P8nt

I got it working... for some reason after about 10 to 15 minutes the panel reads LO and ULO. but the u flashes. Would this be due to XICON Capacitor failing or some other reason?

[p8ntbal4me]

LO = Locked

ULO = Unlocked

I think that has to do with the tourney jumper or the timing menu in the beginning when you first turn it on.

Ill have to re-check.

~ P8nt

[hitech]

It's nice to see that there is an easy to install replacement board for the hyperframe. Makes those hyperframes with the old boards look like better deals.

[MrBlack]

LO = Locked

ULO = Unlocked

I think that has to do with the tourney jumper or the timing menu in the beginning when you first turn it on.

Ill have to re-check.

~ P8nt

How far did you get on this so far?

[p8ntbal4me]

How far did you get on this so far?

With the Hyperframe off, press and hold the bottom button. While still holding the bottom button and before it turns on press and hold the top button. Wait. It will turn on in service mode. When you are done making your changes, press and hold the bottom button to turn it off.

According to Centerflag,... it will display locked if you attempt to change modes when you have your board locked. (obviously)

They also metioned that with there being a 13 and 20 bps board, you may have different setting values and options. The service menu may reflect something other than what is posted here.

That flashing thing someone was describing,.. might be a "pulse" in the software or a part going bad. (what they said)

If you can adjust the FD, FN on your board,... do so as described in this link thread post #1

I know thats not a lot of help,.. but thats what they gave me to report.

~ P8nt

[sdawg]

Moved question to new thread

[Beemer]

Cause I can

[Lefty]

20 years later, and I am still referencing this thread... Thanks hitech!

[hitech]

Thanks, always happy to help.

[luke]

Thanks, always happy to help.

Mr Hitech! I didn't know you were still around, hows it hanging?