Reactivity in Hybrid

[classicmagplayer]

<---too poor for an emag, or even an rt

I shoot a classic mag best 'gun ever made

Thinking about it though, thats the best way I can think of. Unless you are only shooting in hybrid mode. THen I would adjust the sensor so that it fires as soon the trigger hits the trigger rod, then you would be able to sweet spot it easily.

[ChucktheMAGician]

I have a blade trigger on my emag and it wails in hybrid. Just adjusted the trigger. I'm pretty sure that someone mentioned in another post about possible damage to the solenoid from adjusting the trigger rod. Get an adjustable Centerflag tank and enjoy:)

[classicmagplayer]

Having an adjustable tank wont help...you still have to pull the trigger till it comes in contact with the rod to feel the kick of the rt.

I dont see how adjusting the trigger rod would hurt the solenoid, as long as you didnt make the rod so long that the plunger hits the bottom of the solenoid. Maybe you mean the clevis where the plunger attaches to the sear?

[ChucktheMAGician]

Originally posted by classicmagplayer
Having an adjustable tank wont help...you still have to pull the trigger till it comes in contact with the rod to feel the kick of the rt.

Well the Timmy trigger does have a set screw that pushes the whole trigger back further instead of just the magnet. Perhaps I'm crazy but isn't adjusting the input pressure is the most used way to adjust reactivity?!:)

[rdb123]

Chuck, I'm not actually trying to get more kick out of the trigger; I'm trying to get SOME kick.

-Ron

[classicmagplayer]

Originally posted by ChucktheMAGician

Well the Timmy trigger does have a set screw that pushes the whole trigger back further instead of just the magnet. Perhaps I'm crazy but isn't adjusting the input pressure is the most used way to adjust reactivity?!:)

It would be nice to have set screws to adjust the starting point of the trigger, but with the magnetic trigger of the emag it would also change how hard the trigger is to pull.

Yeah, changing the input pressure will change the reactivity, but it wont help if you have to pull the trigger 5mm instead of just pulling it 2. You know what I mean?

Adjusting the trigger rod is a pain, you have to gas up the marker, test fire it a couple times, degas, tear it all down, adjust the rod, and start all over again. If there was a simpler way, a lot of people would do it. I have my classic set up so that you can just see light between the trigger and the rod(less than 1/32 of an inch) and have a trigger stop...at the bottom of the trigger I have about a 3mm trigger pull(single trigger). Any less and it would either wear the bolt down, or cause shootdown. I have ran it this way for about 2 years now with no problems.

Emags are basically the same as any other mag other than a solenoid. You want to have the e mode fire without the trigger hitting the rod, but you want the rod to be extremely close to the end of the pull in e mode. The closer it is to the end of the e-pull, the less you will have to pull it to feel the kick in hybrid. Hope that made sence.

[ReTroMagBoy]

guys who are suggesting upping the input pressure.....

his prob has nothing to do with that...its the fact that in hybrid mode his electronics are being activated, firing the marker too early in the trigger pull so that there is a huge gap between the activation point and the trigger rods return...resulting in a useless effect. moving the electronic firing sequence closer to the trigger rod results in alot of trigger bounce.

[BajaBoy]

rdb123, any luck? im haven the same problem.. and how are you going about messing with the rod? cuz say u take the valve out and puch the sear down.. it will go far enouph that it his the trigger (with no adjustments) So like how would you know how far to move it?

like as in i know how far to put it from the trigger WHEN gassed up.. but is there a way to do it with out gas?

[rdb123]

Bajaboy, I'm taking mine to Extreme Rage tomorrow; the tech there should be able to do it. I'll keep you posted.