Will elcd fit on an RT?

[Thumper33]

I'm giving you guys a lot to read about today I just wanna say I appreciate the help!

So... I bought a classic mag w/ elcd with the intent to move the elcd trigger over to my RT. Has anyone put an elcd on their RT?

The hole where the field service screw goes through isn't big enough for the bigger "banjo" bolt that the RT has. This frame obviously wasn't made to go on the RT. I figure I can drill out this hole so it will fit, but am I going to have other issues?

I know the elcd has it's own bolt bumper that you're supposed to install instead of the stock one. Also, they give you a new on/off valve. It seems to fit into the RT valve just fine, but do I want to use it or the stock RT on-off. What does the Boo-Ya on-off do differently?

Anyway, I'm hoping that this will be a fun gun with the new lvl 10 installed and the elcd...

Mike

[paintballbeaver]

yes it will takes a little coaxing and a drill press but they do

first you sand off the rails on top of the frame, to make it sit flush

then bore out the feild strip screw size to fit the one on the rt then your in bis have fun

[Thumper33]

okay, so I filed it down and drilled the hole larger and it all fits...

But..

When I hook up the tank it seems to fire one shot and then won't do anything.

I have the bumper that came with the elcd installed along with the on/off that came with it.

I just got the marker working great w/ the lvl 10 and these are the only things I've changed since then.

Mike

[Thumper33]

so I figured since I didn't have any other advice I'd try to use the original on/off and see what happens...

It cocks and then pulling the trigger does nothing.

I can see that the solenoid is all the way out and I can't seem to push it even by hand.

[paintballbeaver]

actually electronics is not my department you may wanna talk to

hostage

hes the offical bop yah mako fixer

[Thumper33]

After reading his FAQ, I have determined the following...

I need to use the on/off that came w/ the elcd.

Hostage suggests the following: "Can the booyaah work with the ReTro-Valve? Yes it can, you need to replace the oring with the a white teflon oring." Which oring is he talking about?

I took it all apart and reassembled it to make sure I didn't miss anything. It still fires a shot automatically when I gas up, and then apparently doesn't recock. The bolt does look like it's in the right position, it just doesn't do anything when I pull the trigger.

I also took the picture below of the on-off that I'm using if you see anything wrong with it...



Mike

[cgrieves]

With the Hyperframe you change the on/off pin O ring (the one the pin shaft sits in) with a harder one to give less friction on the pin. Not sure but it sounds like the same thing with the ELCD.

[Thumper33]

well... in the picture above you can see pretty much everything. The oring sitting on the table second from the right is the one that goes in first. it's a standard oring. The one that I think you're talking about is the one actually in the on/off that you can see that's in there. it is a white teflon oring. Should I change the other one to teflon as well?

Mike

[Thumper33]

Okay, new update... I figured that maybe I'd oil the crap out of the on/off to see if that helped.

IT DID!!!

Now at least it doesn't pop a shot off as soon as I gas it up, so that's a step in the right direction. However, it still won't fire w/ the trigger unless I push the solenoid forward by hand. I put a new battery in yesterday while tinkering so the battery should still have enough oomph. It is just a 9 volt duracell though.

Is it possible that it's something to do with the lvl 10 I just installed? Perhaps the spring that's on there requires too much force for the solenoid to push the sear off of it.

Heck, at least I'm closer than I was. I couldn't even push the solenoid before I oiled the on/off.

Mike

[hostage]

Hey bro,

1. I am sure someone here no AO would be more than happy to give you a teflon oring from a Automag parts kit, I have almost all the orings except the teflon one (ran out). You said you have a classic valve, use the teflon oring that comes with the classic valve. You will see two in the classic, get the smaller teflon and place that in your ReTro valve/RT valve. Then you should have it no problem
EDIT: it is the oring that goes into the on/off cavity and that the pin slides in and out of.

2. Use the Level 10 bumper.

3. You can use either the booyaah on/off or the retro on/off. (I am actually using a E-Mag on/off pin in mine). Even the centerflag on/off will work.

4. If you want to have no worries about power any more you can do the 9.6v mod. It will cost yah about 25-30 bucks and trip to radio shack.
A. NIMH 9.6v 1000+ mAh w/ charger
B. 9.6v power connectors replacements
C. Standard 9v replacement connectors

Installing the mod
(this can work on all other 9.6v using grip frames)

One. Clear work area blah blah blah...

Two. get the female 9.6 and connect it to a 9v connector. Make sure to put the negative to the postive and the postive to the negative.

Three. Place NIMH battery inside your tank cover and connect it to the battery.

Four. Open the grip frame connect the two 9v connectors together. You will see the negative going to the postive side. That will be okay, since we flipped it earlier.

Five. Close the grip frame and TADA!

Good luck,
Doron

[Thumper33]

Well, I just tried charging up my 9.6 and installing the teflon o-ring from the classic, then oiling everything up to make it as smooth as possible and still no fire.

There isn't anything to change in the sear is there?

I've got one more chance. I've got an RT Pro and I'm going to see if I can get it to work on this. I really don't know why it'd be any different except that I can install a ULT on it if I need to.

Also, I tried the RT on/off and it'll fire one shot but won't fire a second. That's kinda weird.

Anyway... I'm going to try the whole setup on the RT pro now.

[Thumper33]

Ok, this is weird. With the RT Pro's stock on/off It would fire with the trigger about 1/2 the time. I'm going to order the ULT for it and see if that does the trick.

Oh, and I just noticed that you said use the level 10 bumper. The level 10 doesn't come with a bumper does it?

Mike

[paintballbeaver]

make sure your giving the gun enoughf pressure it may not be kicking back the sear so the selinoid will fire

[Thumper33]

I have the grip off so I can see all the insides of the elcd as I pull the trigger. It will fire every time if I just push the solenoid forward instead of pulling the trigger. I don't think it could be the pressure if that were the case. Right?

Mike

[Big'n slo]

I'm not familiar with the elcd frame but is there a set screw for adjusting the soleniod?