Will elcd fit on an RT?

[hostage]

sometimes it's good to try to "break the [oring] in". just take it out and put the on/off pin through it a few times. Also try increaseing the pulse to 15. That might help. Otherwise if you are using the old 9v then it might not be powerful enough to mess with it. Lastly go easy on the oil. I don't use oil in mine other than putting a few drops in the valve every so often.
-Doron

[Thumper33]

oops.. I was going heavy on the oil. I figured more to lube with. I'll rub it down w/ something to clean it off.

I'll try the pulse length too. I should get my new battery in the mail on Friday. We'll see if that helps.

Mike

[cgrieves]

humper, sorry I haven't got back to this thread, I deleted all my thread subscriptions by mistake!

I have heard that the level 10 can cause firing problems when using an e-frame with a classic valve, but normally there's no problem with RT style valves. I use the standard RT on/off assembly and pin on my Level 10 Hypermag (with Retro valve). Since you can fire the marker manually I would suggest that the solenoid simply isn't providing enough push to fire the marker. More voltage will help and should be safe as the ELCD uses a higher rated capacitor than the Hyperframe if I recall correctly (18 volts I think, although don't quote me on that). Whether the board electronics will be safe at much higher voltages I'm not sure....

Also for experimentation's sake, try going back to a L7 bolt and see if it fires.

You could also try adjusting the solenoid to make sure it hits the sear square on. Some Hyperframe users found that leaving a small gap between the solenoid plunger and the sear leg solved the problem as it allowed the plunger to move slightly and gain a little momentum. Be careful if you do this, and check regularly for bolt wear as the short solenoid throw sometimes causes the sear to chip the bolt. On the Hyperframe you can loosen the solenoid screws and move it around, I guess the ELCD is similar.

The Hyperframe comes with a much harder on/off pin O-ring which provides less friction than the AGD teflon item. Mine actually works fine with the standard O-ring but I used the Centerflag ring anyway.

Also I'm not sure about ELCDs but the Hyperframe has a solenoid power setting, the idea being once the O-rings have worn in you can lower the setting and get more shots per battery. If the ELCD has it, then make sure it's set to the highest setting.

Good luck!

[Thumper33]

thanks...

I've got a ULT on order so I can try that. I figure it can't hurt anything, and would only make it easier on the solenoid.

I appreciate the help. We'll see what the ULT and new battery do.

Thanks guys.

Mike

[cgrieves]

Originally posted by Thumper33
I've got a ULT on order so I can try that. I figure it can't hurt anything, and would only make it easier on the solenoid.

Yeah, I reckon that's the best solution. I've not seen it first hand but I've heard of a Hyperframe user who had great results with the ULT. Let us know how you get on!

[Thumper33]

Well, ULT should be here tomorrow, but I just figured out that it doesn't fit my mag... see this thread...

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=101581

[cgrieves]

Damn that's a shame

You could get your valve milled, this shouldn't cost much at all. Also have you thought about trading your valve in for an X?

[Thumper33]

I'm going to go research this a bit more now, but what does an x-valve do that the RT doesn't?

I see that it's all aluminum. I guess that means lighter. Anyone know how much?
I also see that it comes w/ a lvl 10 bolt. I already have one, but I guess I can sell my RT valve instead of trading it in.

[SocialD]

An X-valve won't work in a classic RT.

[cgrieves]

Good point, I keep forgetting you have a classic RT. Looks like milling is your best option....

[Thumper33]

I actually have 2 guns right now...

Classic RT and RT Pro. The RT Pro is the one with the old school stainless valve so that's why the ULT won't work on it.

Mike

[SocialD]

So, are you putting the ELCD on the Classic RT or the RT-Pro? Your first post leads me to believe that you are putting on the Classic because you said that you drilled it out for the banjo bolt.

[Thumper33]

I was originally trying to put it on the RT Classic, but I found I needed the ULT to make it work. I thought the ULT would only work on the Pro so I ordered it. Now I find out that I'll need to either mill or get the x-valve to get it to work on the Pro as well, so I guess that's what I'm going to do. This is crazy, but right now here's what I have on order...

ULT
X-valve
ULE body (might as well while I'm at it)
cocker threaded DYE ultralite (need this 'cause my old barrel won't fit now)
New 9.6 NiMH battery

This should make things run, and hopefully run well.

[hostage]

hrmm you never told me about the classic part! so you drilled part of the frame out so you could use the banjo bolt? Also if it is a flat frame you may have to mill off the grove on the booyaah. The booyaah was intended for the classic Automag68.
-Doron

[Thumper33]

Yes, I milled the ridges off the frame and drilled out the hole for the banjo bolt. Since I've decided to use it on the RTPro instead I didn't have to drill out that bolt... Oh well. It works just fine either way. I've thought about making a spacer to fill back in that part if it does slide around on the frame but I don't think it will.