classic mag : sear premature wear with an hyprerframe

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  • Doobie
    AOsOfficialDrillSergeant
    • May 2001
    • 1237

    #16
    I have been running a hyper for years. On a classic valve w/lvl 7, then Retro, then Retro w/Lvl 10. I had one problem with it not firing. I got a longer on/off pin and it was fixed. As far as bolt wear. I have read others having the same prob and a new on/off generally fixes it. If you send it to Center flag, w/all the worn parts, they will generally treat you right. I have had nothing but good relations with them since I've owned my Hyperframe (3 years). You really can't go wrong giving them a call.
    I clean my marker after every day of play and have NEVER seen any bolt or sear wear. It is just a matter of getting it set up right.
    Hope I helped a little.

    The gun is 1/8" of a game that is a FOOT long!
    (...but a 'mag helps)
    I know I was born and I know that I'll die...the in between is mine. -Eddie Vedder
    Sinister Sainthood

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    • grominou69
      full time paintball addict
      • Jan 2003
      • 172

      #17
      thanx for all replys ...... i dont want to send it to centerflag cauz i want to tweak it myself ....... but your help is soothing for my wounded mag

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      • sporty86
        Team Whirlwind
        • Sep 2001
        • 39

        #18
        If ya wanna know how to do a trigger job on it let me know. The tech at Chicago showed me the new lighter switch and showed him what you can do with a stock one. So simple.
        "PLAY HARD OR GO HOME!"
        IN MY BAG OF TRIX!
        • Black and Red ULE Hyped up ReTro MAG
        • Black ULE Hyped up ReTro MAG
        • Polished & Red Benchy LVL 10 MAG
        • Polished & Blue Benchy MAG
        • PF MAG wit Benchy frame

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        • hitech
          Not a shedder of vortices
          • Nov 2001
          • 4775

          #19
          Since you have a Hyperframe I thought you might find my Hyperframe FAQ usefull.

          BTW, I also do not like the short dwell time on the original hyperframe board. It can cause wear problems over time. The new board solves that problem (at the expense of battery life).


          Hey Hitech your starting to sound like me! - AGD
          Hitech is the man.... :eek: - Blennidae
          The only Hitech Lubricant

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          • openboater
            Registered User
            • Jul 2001
            • 288

            #20
            I had sear and bolt wear with my Hyperframe. the longer pin did not fix the problem. (classic L7).Sent it to Centerflag, when it came back it still ate bolts.

            Centerflag also makes a real long pin that I tried, but that was too long and the pin end would mushroom. I took the Hyperframe off, but I'll be trying it again soon with a ULT. I do love it when it's working.

            One thing that seemed to help was instead of running a 9v in the frame, I attached a 9.6v remote control car battery from Radioshack and stuck the battery in my tank cover.

            BUT DO THE 9.6v AT YOUR OWN RISK. While it worked for me, that extra .6v may fry something in the frame.

            I will be sending my frame back to centerflag for the upgraded board so I can set the dwell time longer.

            Comment

            • hitech
              Not a shedder of vortices
              • Nov 2001
              • 4775

              #21
              Originally posted by openboater
              Centerflag also makes a real long pin that I tried, but that was too long and the pin end would mushroom.
              I had the same problem. When my brother but the hyperframe on his minimag the long pin was perfect. The problem with the centerflag on/off pin is that the "head" is too long. This limits the travel and causes the problems. Try using an RT on/off pin. The "head" of the RT on/off pin is not as long.


              Hey Hitech your starting to sound like me! - AGD
              Hitech is the man.... :eek: - Blennidae
              The only Hitech Lubricant

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