Cocker leak question...

[deded]

So I got a used cocker, because I didn't have enough problems with my mag to post about

When I first gassed it up, I didn't have any paint, but I dry fired it a couple of times, and it looke like it was firing pretty well... then I ran out of air and just played with it with no air.

I was inspecting it pretty closely when I saw that the little rod that goes in the 4 way was coming out a little bit... It seemed like nothing was holding it in place. So I screwed it back in, and it looked better, more solid.

But then the next time I gassed it up, it leaked down the barrel really really really badly. It is like I am not cocking it before I gas it up, but I am. I went to paintballravi.com to check out what it might be, but it didn't seem like any of the solutions listed would work. I don't think a seal failed because it is not just a small leak, and it was only like 20 hours after it worked that it didn't work.

I think that it might have something to do with the 4 way, as that is the part that seemed to be falling apart, but I really don't know if the 4 way comes into play before the trigger is pulled.

I'll give any other info that is needed... but I don't know a lot about cockers yet so explain it to me like I'm a 2 year old!

Thanks a lot for any help!

[deded]

Somebody out there's gotta be a cocker genious...

Or does anyone have links to a good cocker page?

[Muzikman]

before you gas it up...manualy cock the gun by pull back on the back block all the way and then push it forward again. Gas up the gun and see if it still leaks down the barrel. If it does, then you have a bad valve would be my assumption. If it does not. Pull the trigger and see what happens. My guess is you screwed up the timing. This is the reason that if a cocker is working...DON'T TOUCH IT

[deded]

yeah it still leaks... I'm a cocker newbie, but I do know how to cock it

Are there any pictures anywhere that tell you where the valve is and how to get it out to check the seals and stuff?

[Drew]

knocks on wood

am I the ONLY person that doesn't have problems with his Autococker? I bought a used ANS GenX, slapped on a 14" boomstick and added DYE stickies, and I love it! of corse I had the good sense not to fiddle with everything on the gun which is odd, because as a rule, men MUST screw with new toys

[deded]

I wasn't even going to screw with it... the 3 way rod thing came loose and i put it back in. Thats it! I swear.

But I think it must be a bad valve o ring or something, because I realized that I was using the wrong antisiphon tank, so it was siphoning liquid into the gun, which may have jacked up an O ring or two.

Now all I have to do is figure out how to take this thing apart without REALLY screwing it up.

Hehe wish me luck, I'm gonna search around for a good cocker breakdown page.

[mac2k4]

well what kinda air system are ya running into it? it could be too m,uch pressure, or not enough to cock it, make suer the cocking rod is cocked before ya put air into it. If ya have an adjustable reg. then unscrew it, and slowly scrw it back in to where the gun shoots smooth. And its not out of timming from adjusting the 3-way, maybe you set the 3-way in too much, or not enough so the o-rings on the 3-way rod arn't aligned to the holes in the 3-way housing.

my cockers don't mess up(all 3 of'em) and i don't know jack crap about cockers, i cn completley take'em apart put'em back together blah balh screew w/'em and all, i guess i'm lucky?

[deded]

Thanks for the reply... I'm going to try that out, and then I'm gonna try CO2 again to see if that works.

I have a preset 68/3k crossfire stub tank.
I also have an ANS gen X 2 inline regulator.
When you say unscrew the regulator, do you mean the inline reg, or the reg on the front of the gun?

Thanks again for the reply

[deded]

Hmmm, the CO2 leaked the same way, but its a newly filled bottle, so maybe its got too much pressure or something, because when it worked, it was a low bottle of CO2.

Any other ideas on what this might be... I'm open to any input.

[mac2k4]

naw i mean the reg on the frontpnumatics, w/ ans reg, adjust it down, and see if it stops, if not ,then try turning it up

[deded]

I've been offline for a little with the whole @home thing. But unscrewing the reg doesn't seem to be working. Maybe it is a valve oring or something. Unfortunately I don't have a valve pulling tool.

Anyone know what else I could use to get the valve out to take a look at it?

Or should I just give up and take it to an airsmith?

[mac2k4]

i say take her to a certified cocker airsmith, or at least someone who knows what there doing, don't just let some one screw arund w/ it?

[SGTKennedy]

who needs a valve tool? i havent had to do it on a Cocker before but i usually just push the valve from the back. take out the striker and the nut that holds it in and push with a long screwdriver. works on Spyders, and *shivers* Brass Eagle stuff, but you might wanna be more careful cuz a cocker isnt a throwaway gun and the valves can get expensive.
Kennedy

[PiPDA]

...ok what type of pneumatic setup do you have? there is 4 parts to the 4way system.
1.Timing rod
2.Coupling
3.4way shaft
4. 4way shaft housing (the round thing)

The 4way shaft is held into the coupler by a set screw. On most cockers u find a threaded timing rod the coupler is on and held down by a second set screw. What did you tighten that was coming undone? Either way that shouldn't effect the valve...two seperate systems like how the power tube is seperate from the reg in a mag. The valve could be leaking from not enough presure, or to much like before meantioned. First check ur input preasure. If you have a stock cocker see if its at about 400-500 psi that should hold it down nicely...if ur cocker isn't stock then it gets tricky. your cup seal could be worn of course or just dirty...if the preasure is too high fun stuff happens also. If you cock it before u put air to it and it starts to leak as soon as air hits it then the hammer isn't holding the valve open. AND YES u need a tool to get the valve out..well get a nut out that is holding the valve in. There is the valve plug on the bottom side of the body. Its looks just like one on a spyder. then on the inside is the nut...there is no screwdrivers needed or anything...if you have to take ur valve out i suggest finding ur self a trained cocker tech. BUt first check ur preasure throught the inline. If u want more help from me tell me what kind of Inline reg u have and if u have a gauge what it reads...well just give me ur cockers complete specs at least what u know. thanks

[SGTKennedy]

meh. like i said. i havent had to play with my cocker yet. i bought it used and never touched it. the rt took the gold. oh well.
kennedy