which on/off for an electric trigger.

[conquested]

I have a classic mag with no internal mods. I purchased a Boo-Yaah trigger last year and it seems to fuction correctly. But when it's on the gun it won't fire. I wasn't sure how the sear was supposed to be set up or if it was supposed to come with a new one. But I removed the rod from the sear. The selonoid hits the sear but won't fire and it is not in constant contact with the sear. So I started to adjust the velocity adjuster on the gun and occasionally it would fire. So could it be as simple as setting my adjustable regulator on my tank? I was also thinking of getting the ULT thinking that that may fix it. something seems to be up with the pressure and no the recharge rate. Ask me any questions. I'm pretty new to all this and I realize that the Boo-Yaah isn't the best product, but I'm sure I can make it work. Thanks.

-Jon

[personman]

The ULT may be a solution, I'm not sure. I think the Boo Yah is supposed to come with an on/off to make the trigger pull lighter but I'm not sure on that one. You should contact hostage on here and ask him.

[conquested]

maybe hostage will chime in here and shed some light on my problem. i'm new here and don't know the regulars yet. i may just try the ULT and go from there.

-Jon

[kevdupuis]

The Booyaah came with an on/off that lightened the pull but caused shootdown on my old air valve. I think that a ult should be your best bet for that.
Also some people upgraded battery power for them by going to tank mounted R/C battery packs, 9.6 and 12 volts, I used the 9.6 pack.

[conquested]

ok, looks like i will be getting the ULT. next question is how was the sear supposed to be set-up? did i do it correctly by just removing the rod or am i missing something? thanks.

-Jon

[DeeEight]

Originally posted by kevdupuis
The Booyaah came with an on/off that lightened the pull but caused shootdown on my old air valve. I think that a ult should be your best bet for that.
Also some people upgraded battery power for them by going to tank mounted R/C battery packs, 9.6 and 12 volts, I used the 9.6 pack.

I haven't chrono'ed my mag since i put the booyah frame on but the thing wouldn't work with the stock pin for the classic valve at all. Put the booyah supplied pin into it and it shoots fine EXCEPT if you dial up the cyclic rate to around 15bps (the board limit), the gun burps after the first shot and doesn't fire properly. Basically the on/off is tripping too fast and the valve is starving for gas. One of those times I wish I owned an HPA setup but with 20 co2 tanks in the collection, and two fill stations, its not too cost effective to have a single HPA tank that doesn't last half as long as my 16oz stubby tank does for a similar weight.

[NeoMoses]

It sounds like you installed it correctly, but you do not have enough force from the solenoid to trip the sear. There are 2 solutions to this: Get more force from the solenoid or require less force to trip the sear.

To get more force from the solenoid, you can over-volt it. This may or may not be harmful to the solenoid and associated electronics.

The ULT will require less force to activate the solenoid. This sounds like a better method to actually solve the problem at hand.

[xen_100]

Originally posted by NeoMoses
It sounds like you installed it correctly, but you do not have enough force from the solenoid to trip the sear. There are 2 solutions to this: Get more force from the solenoid or require less force to trip the sear.

To get more force from the solenoid, you can over-volt it. This may or may not be harmful to the solenoid and associated electronics.

The ULT will require less force to activate the solenoid. This sounds like a better method to actually solve the problem at hand.

over volting it wont hurt it at all. I have been running my boo-yaah at 12V for about two years now. gives the noid ALOT more punch. the ULT will help too.

[DeeEight]

the instructions that came with my ELCD grip says the solenoid is adjustable front to back in the grip frame, if you have problems getting the sear to move. You un-bolt the grip panels, loosen a couple set screws and push the solenoid back about 1/16th of an inch.

[hostage]

Are you still haveing any issues? To adjust the noid you can unscrew the setscrews under the noid and push it further up. Also Batteries are the most cause of problems to the booyaah. 9.6 is requried at least for some. If you go with a 9v, make sure you purchase the premium type. A lot of offbrand types suck and go dead really quickly. Also make sure to unplug the battery from the booyaah when you are not at the field. I created a large 9.6v battery for mine. Lastly check the pulse length of the sear 15 is the max and I think 7 is the lowest. LMK if this helps.
-Hostage

[Major Jam]

The Boo-Yaah ELCD frame I used had a different on/off valve, on/off bottom, and a different on/off pin. It all came with the grip frame new. It was a version 3.1 I think. My Boo-Yaah would not work with the stock on/off assembly.

[the electrician]

may I recommend trying a regular old RT on/off.

you may have to modify it a bit to get the recharge rate you want, but I've been able to get 18 bps off of a classic valve with a modified RT on/off.

check out this thread:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=129203

[conquested]

well i bought a lvl 10 and the ULT and installed them both and tweaked them both. now i got the lvl 10 to work great when the ULT is NOT installed.

the gun will shoot full auto now with a fully charged 9.6v battery and the ULT. it's never chopped a ball yet, BUT when i put a something in the way of the bolt it gets stuck and leaks out the barrel. i have a check valve so i just turn it off really quickly and back on again. i also have a warpfeed, which i figure is why it never misfeeds taking the lvl 10's great features out of the equation. but i still want it fixed.

and on a similar note, the gun will lock up and leak out the barrel every few hundred shots or so. i just do like before and pull the check valve off and back on and continue firing. i figure these two problems are directly related, but im not sure.

any suggestions?

-Jon

p.s. all my friends are afraid of my gun. they wont even let me play full auto anymore. lol. i'm an offensive player though so the quicker trigger makes it alot more fun though.

[commrad]

I have a hyper frame instead of the boyah but I had problems out of the box with mine. 1) the on/off that came with it, the noid can't budge it with 9v so I stuck my ULT in it with 6 shims and it worked about 85% of the time and we all no that's not good. 2) the noid position is adustable on mine, with the noid all the way back (max travel) the tip on the noid that moved was even with the body of the noid so it was having to move the sear from a dead stop, couldn't do it every time. what i did to fix it was remove the noid and the vertical surface near the rear of the marker that it contacted, I used a flat file and removed about .020- .030" so that with the noid set all the way back in the frame the pin that contacts the sear had just a LITTLE head start before it contacted the sear, after that the only problem i've had is a dead battery, no paint or no air, it's never missed another beat.

Instead of buying another ULT for my back up 68 classic, I just threw the hyper frame on/off in it, it's not as good as the ULT but it's better than a classic on/off

[Lenny]

You say Classic 'Mag? As in Classic valve?

I'm suprised no one caught that. Good luck getting the ULT to work properly. Your best bet is to shove an RT on/off in there. It'll lighten it up drastically.