Sweetspotting?

[Snowball]

does the ult mod make the xvalve walkable and how easy does it walk if it does...

[Joni]

I really don't find it walkable. Some people say that they do, but I just find it too awkward. I might get off 2-3 shots walking, then I start to chuff, and those shots aren't really fast either.

[TTCosmo]

hey, maybe you guys can help me out while your on the topic?
i just got my RT Custom a month or two ago and it is the least reactive RT that i or any of my friends have seen. I have tried everything that i can think of to give it a sweetspot. Last night i had the output pressure from my tank up past 1100 psi and still nothing. All that did was make the trigger pull stiffer.
When i first got it, there was an extremely sensitive sweetspot that was next to impossible to hit, but even that is now gone.

Here is my setup:
RT Custom w/ level 10 and xvalve
NO ULT
I-Frame w/ blade trigger
warp left body
older air america 88ci 4500psi adjustable tank

since i have gotten it, i have added two more shims to the one that was in the level 10. I use the smallest spring because the max velocity where i play is 260, and the smallest carrier is the only one that doesn't leak.
I have also tried several preset tanks set to 800-850psi with no luck.

All the other posts on AO say to increase tank output but i haven't had any luck with that. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

As far as the ULT goes, most of the guns that i have seen with it have been really easy to sweetspot. Explain that

[RTC_LoKi]

Is the ULT new? Before my ULT had broken in (2000-4000 shots) I could sweetspot my heart out. Not possible anymore.

no ive shot more than 4000 and i can still sweetspot with ease

[Z-man]

You know it might be time for me to do a full workup on the ULT and sweetspotting. I swear I hear more conflicting info on this area. Sounds just like how rapid-fire was argued over till I wrote up my little RF Bible .

I will say that while the ULT may break in and loose/gain the rapid-fire abiity, I have over 100,000 rounds on some of my Mags with stock on/off pins and they still rapid-fire.

<B>TTCosmo</b> a few questions that might help.

1-what spring are you using on the bolt? You might try a smaller one which would cut down on the force needed to fire the bolt.

2-How tight does your bolt set in the lvl10? It might be a tad to snug and if you change carrier sizes that might help. Sounds like you are doing the right stuff to make it work. Hvae you measuered your on/off pin or your sear pin to make sure they are in factory spec?

[TTCosmo]

Z-man, thanks for the advice.
I am using the smallest spring that came with the level 10 kit. It was installed when i got the gun (new). I also tried the medium spring but i couldn't get the velocity down below 280 and still have the gun fire. I tried the next size carrier up with the same oring and then again with a new oring but it would leak a little so i changed it back. Hopefully it wont break in more because i am already using the smallest carrier.

The bolt does slide easily and i keep the gun well oiled. It does chop paint sometimes but i blame that on the small spring, pmi paint, and warp left body. I stuck my finger in the chamber and fired. As long as i hold it against the bolt snuggly, it doesn't really hurt.

You might be on to something with the on/off pin. i dont have a set of calipers so i'll have to look around and see what i can find.
What is the factory spec on it? .750? or .765? Maybe AGD accidently stuck the wrong one in or it was machined a little off?

By the sear pin do you mean that pin behind the trigger pushing on it? It has the 1mm gap like on the picture detailed on your guide.

Thanks again for the help

[Joni]

the on/off pin should be .765

[TTCosmo]

ok so i have measured the on/off pin the best that i can until i dig my calipers out of storage on monday. I used a fine drafting ruler and found it to be .750
So AGD installed the wrong on/off pin on my ULE RT Custom?
Well I'll probably play Friday so hopefully my field can give me the right one.
Or would AGD send me a free one?
Also, is there any special alignment that i should know about when putting the assembly back together? The pin seems really snug.

[Z-man]

Hang on there don't be so hasty. Black VCG's thread that is stickied righ at the top of the tech forums has the actually data on it and I quote:

E-Mag:

On/Off pin: .712" w/ brass top and double o-ring top.
.725" w/ aluminum top and single o-ring top.

Trigger Rod: 2.125"

Solenoid Plunger Rod: 3.005"

RT-Pro:

On/Off Pin: .765"

Trigger Rod: 1.985"

Retro Valve/X-Valve/Classic RT:

On/Off Pin: .750"

Automag Classic/Minimag:

On/Off Pin: .750"

Trigger Rod: 1.985"

Level 10:

Bolt stem: 2.010"

I think you have the correct pin in there and I would bust out those digital calipers before running off to buy a new pin.

[TTCosmo]

ok thanks again Z-man
i have been looking around on other posts and have noticed that a shorter pin is what makes it more reactive anyway. (or just put it into runaway)
My mag fires good how it is, just not fast.
I guess ill just have to wait till that deadlywind hair trigger thingy comes out.
Or maybe when i get some more money ill send it to Havoc.

[Joni]

Or you could get the ULT, which makes it nice and light