Emag LX down, need help badly

[Evil_Canuck]

Hello, my Emag's LX is acting up BIGTIME and after spending a few hours trying to fix it, my frustration has maxxed out and I require some input.

Now, the gun worked flawlessly for about 6 months (other than having to change carriers after a few weeks, as to be expected). Anyway, I recently set the Emag as the team backup and now since one of my teammates guns has to be sent back for warranty (bad board), I thought of using the Emag for a few weeks. Anyway, after lubing up the Emag and airing it up, I started to encounter major problems.

Originally, I had the problem of the gun chuffing once in every 7 shots or so (no paint). So, I tried changing springs (had medium), no luck.

Then, put medium back in, tried changing shims, then carriers, and now have a new problem.

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Now, I have the medium spring in, carrier 1.5, and whenever I air up the mag the bolt pushes forward about 20% and air starts leaking out quite a bit.

Now, at this point the tank I was using (Worr Gas) was down to about 1000 PSI, so I stopped fiddling.

So, since I am having this problem of the barrel leak, I tried pulling the trigger in M mode, but that did nothing to fix the leak.

Is this a carrier problem, or something else? I have never needed to get help before, so I am considering getting a real tech to look at this. Problem is that I live in Canada and shipping to AGD would probably result in major brokerage fees.

Any reputable techs in Canada (assuming I can't fix this?)

I would prefer to fix this myself. Any input that you can give would be GREATLY appreciated!

[abunkerer]

could be the on/off needs to be taken out and cleaned and lubed, if it dosent reset the sear it won't catch the bolt; and the bolt will move forward and leak. Aside from that, the chuffing could be the lx being overtuned and needing a little more leeway..although the worr gas is a good tank it still might not be able to keep up at high rof so you should keep it chrono'd in the 280's. go no shims, biggest carrier and short spring - do the drop test on the bolt in the powertube. hope this helps!

[Evil_Canuck]

could be the on/off needs to be taken out and cleaned and lubed, if it dosent reset the sear it won't catch the bolt; and the bolt will move forward and leak. Aside from that, the chuffing could be the lx being overtuned and needing a little more leeway..although the worr gas is a good tank it still might not be able to keep up at high rof so you should keep it chrono'd in the 280's. go no shims, biggest carrier and short spring - do the drop test on the bolt in the powertube. hope this helps!

The on/off has been lubed, all the o-rings have been "wetted".

Since now I cannot get the gun to shoot without chuffing, I can not chronograph it. (Well, technically the bolt just pushes forward and leaks right now, so I can't do anything with it).

I have tried no shims, biggest carrier and shortest spring and it had no effect on the constant chuffing.

What is the drop test on the bolt ni the powertube? I don't know what you mean, please elaborate.

Thank you very much!

[athomas]

If the level 10 is using the largest carrier that doesn't leak and no shims, then it should always fire at least 1 shot before having bolt problems unless the problem is in the back of the valve.

Is the body of the gun an ULE or powerfeed body? A ULE could have a sticky detent. A twist lock could have a barrel that is tight or off center. Try to fire without the barrel.

Check your sear assembly. It may have a bent or out of adjustment plunger. This would only cause firing or reset problems. The gun would fire properly when it did fire, but may not reset the sear properly.

The bolt drop test on the powertube, is when you insert the bolt into the powertube and it does not slide down to the base of the valve. If you give the valve a bump, the bolt will fall to the base of the powertube. If the bolt won't budge, then the carrier is too tight. If the bolt falls to the base as soon as you release it, then the carrier is too loose.

[Evil_Canuck]

If the level 10 is using the largest carrier that doesn't leak and no shims, then it should always fire at least 1 shot before having bolt problems unless the problem is in the back of the valve.

Is the body of the gun an ULE or powerfeed body? A ULE could have a sticky detent. A twist lock could have a barrel that is tight or off center. Try to fire without the barrel.

Check your sear assembly. It may have a bent or out of adjustment plunger. This would only cause firing or reset problems. The gun would fire properly when it did fire, but may not reset the sear properly.

The bolt drop test on the powertube, is when you insert the bolt into the powertube and it does not slide down to the base of the valve. If you give the valve a bump, the bolt will fall to the base of the powertube. If the bolt won't budge, then the carrier is too tight. If the bolt falls to the base as soon as you release it, then the carrier is too loose.

Alright, so I know right off of the hop that I need to use a larger carrier, because I am not even getting one good shot.

The body is a SS warp body. I have been shooting without a barrel, so it shouldn't be any barrel issues (yet).

I will check the sear, but I doubt there is a problem with that since I recently checked it and all the grip internals still look brand new.

I will try the drop test as soon as I get home. Thanks for the response!

[abunkerer]

Another way to do the drop test: With the carrier installed and gas ON make sure that the marker does not leak with current carrier size. degas & disassemble gun, take the valve out, take bolt off powertube & put a couple drops of oil in the powertube to lube the oring. Hold the valve at 90* powertube pointing straight up, barely insert the bolt stem into the powertube (for alignment mostly) and then drop it in. The bolt should fall all the way down to the clear bumper.

[Cthulhu]

Alright, why in the last while have we noticed a sever increase in this type of problem. I had the same problem with my emag last week and have been able to fix it... here's what I did.

1st, my Flatline is responsible for not providing enuf air fast enuf. Changed HPA systems to my MaxFlow (Concl: Flatline is dirty, deep in the reg)
2nd, I rebuilt my valve, replacing ALL THE SEALS in it.
Reversed the wires on my Solenoid
3rd, Turned my Output Preasure up to 800PSI on my maxflow
Oiled the Piss out of the on/off and the LX
Hooked the marker up to a scuba and banged off over 10,000 rnds

It works like a charm now.

[Evil_Canuck]

Alright, well the tank I am using is set to 800PSI, so it should be good enough for this.

I am considering replacing my powertube o-ring (even though it appears fine), and I suppose I could start replacing valve seals, but I don't think I have all of the parts required for a full swap.

I will have to search the forums for a full valve parts list and whatnot to confirm.

Why did you reverse the solenoid wires?

[Cthulhu]

I replaced the board shortly before I had this problem and thought maybe I had them backwards. Well, there is no such thing, but it is one thing I noticed made a big difference. I'm wondering if after X shots, the solenoid starts getting weak? Just a thought.

Cheers

[Evil_Canuck]

Alright, here is the update.

Now, the gun is using a 2.0 carrier, smallest spring. I am back to having it chuff every few shots, and so when I get home today I will see what it is chronying at.

I had the 2.0 with the middle spring, but the gun would not fire (even with velocity turned to max). So, I tried 1.5 with middle spring and the gun would not fire. I tried 2.5 with middle spring and this time the gun would leak after firing one shot badly so I knew it was the carrier (trigger pull fixed this problem).

I am concerned however that using the smallest spring will not let me achieve 280 or so FPS. Previous experience has shown me that I usually can only get like 260 FPS max, and this will be a bit low to say the least.

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Should I assume with the random chuffing that my velocity is too low, or something else?

[abunkerer]

the velocity issue is usually the other way around, People can't get their guns to operate at lower FPS without chuffing.

High velocity reduces chuffing because the force of air pushing the bolt is greater. THis stronger force overcomes carriers that are too tight, and larger springs that apply more force against the bolt. If the velocity is too high the gun wont chuff at the "right times", and it will chop a ball instead. If the velocity is too low, then the air pushing the bolt does not have enough force to overcome the spring resistance, & carrier sticktion and the gun will not cycle properly.

also the valve must be able to get up to velocity that is necessary to run a Level 10 bolt without venting from the back of the valve.

[Evil_Canuck]

the velocity issue is usually the other way around, People can't get their guns to operate at lower FPS without chuffing.

High velocity reduces chuffing because the force of air pushing the bolt is greater. THis stronger force overcomes carriers that are too tight, and larger springs that apply more force against the bolt. If the velocity is too high the gun wont chuff at the "right times", and it will chop a ball instead. If the velocity is too low, then the air pushing the bolt does not have enough force to overcome the spring resistance, & carrier sticktion and the gun will not cycle properly.

also the valve must be able to get up to velocity that is necessary to run a Level 10 bolt without venting from the back of the valve.

It will be interesting to see what my gun is shooting at. I hope it is shooting much lower than it is supposed to, because that will mean that jacking up my velocity could end up fixing both problems.

Edit: I should note that when I said I was concerned, I meant that in the past I have not been able to reach beyond 260 FPS. I have yet to chrony this current setup. I am just expecting the worst...

Thanks again for all your help people!

[Evil_Canuck]

So, here is what happened:

Chronied gun with short spring and 2.0 carrier.

Could get it up to about 200 FPS. This was about 90% turned all the way in, and once I went beyond this point, the bolt would stick forward after shooting. I upped the shims from 2 to 4 to 6, still the bolt would stick forward.

So, I said hey let's try the 2.5 shim. Yeah, no luck - it just leaked like a ... runny faucet.

Next, I said well, if I can get the middle spring in and working, maybe it will help. Well, I still cannot get the gun to fire with the middle spring. I tried using different carriers out of desperation, no luck there. I had the rear velocity screw all the way in, but with the middle spring the gun just will not fire.

Ideas?

Thanks

[-Little Man-]

Buy a new one! or send it in you might get slammed with customs but not sure. if you are near the states drive to the states and ship from the states?

[Enemy]

new carrier oring??? i have no clue talk to tuna man or Black VCG on this one!!!