Original RT Breaking balls

[YZILLA]

Z-MAN - what is your hopper setup - ( What board ) - does it have the rip drive ? and what is the benefits of having the V-Board and Rip drive ? -

[Z-man]

Z-MAN - what is your hopper setup - ( What board ) - does it have the rip drive ? and what is the benefits of having the V-Board and Rip drive ? -

I am currently running the V-board on one of my Halos and the Z-Code on the other. In all honesty I never outshoot the Z-code even when rapid-fire untill you get down to the last 20 balls where they start to bounce around in the feed cone. I would not bother with the Vboard. It's nice but you can't really tell unless you break 24bps regularly.

As for the rip drive I have never put one on any of my Halos. My understanding is that it's just a manual backup if the batteries die... yeah I'm gonna shoot 6 or 7 balls and rewind it HA (I just make sure I have fresh batteries)! I guess the other nice thing abut it is that you can hold the tension in the srping and not lose like 5 balls when you pull the Halo off. I just did not see a good enough reasons to get it.

But again, I have never used one so keep that in mind. Anyone here care to give a reason why it's worth the money?

[MindJob]

My old RT did the same thing when I switched to an Intelliframe. It is as if it just shoots faster with genuine AGD accessories or something....

Without a doubt before you waste another batch of paintballs, go out and get a LVL10. If you need any help with the set up, feel free to drop me a line I'd be more than happy to help you out.

It seems that the original RT had its quirks with the LVL10. I couldn't get a decent velocity without air hissing out of the back. (Over-pressure relief valve feture of the reg piston) I ended up getting a new pistion, and sear and with a little more tinkering the thing hums. I was sorry to sell that beast to my brother, but I did replace it with an X-mag.

Good luck

[YZILLA]

Thanks for the advice and the offer - I will reach you if I run into problems - level10 should be here friday the 14th - I will keep in touch on this one !!!

[YZILLA]

OK I went to take apart my bolt to install the level 10 and i cant remove the part that i am supposed to use a coin to take off -I am thinking im in over my head . Any advice ?

[MindJob]

OK I went to take apart my bolt to install the level 10 and i cant remove the part that i am supposed to use a coin to take off -I am thinking im in over my head . Any advice ?

If its the brass power tube tip that you are talking about, you can put a pait of vice grips on it without worrying about screwing it up. You will be replacing it with the new one from the lvl10 kit. That one has wrench flats on it. If you dont want to use the vice grips or pliers, try a nice big flat tip screw driver.

When you intall your lvl10, just follow the step by step from the quick start guiide. Once you see how things work and what they do you shouldn't have too many problems. It's a learning curve, so be patient. There is lots of help available here on AO

Let me know how you make out.

[YZILLA]

OK I couldnt get it to fire - aired it up - adjusted it so there are no leaks . Pull the trigger and nothing happens- its set at about 750 psi. the valve does not move- its well oiled the trigger has pressure on it ( like air pressure -not like it wont move ) . I stuck the old parts back in and it fires fine - I decided to fire some paint through it and about 50 balls through it broke one . I never understood the rapid firing the Z-man was talking about , now I do It definately rapid fires - I can hold the trigger just right and it is blazing fast . Im sure thats when the ball broke- I was only using the revy so I dont know if that had anything to do with it . I have a Halo B coming in this week and a Die 12" barrel . If I can stop the chopping , I think this will be the only gun I will ever own . Then I will get my 12 year old one and We will have a blast together .Any advice is truley appreciated ( you all have been great with your advice so far )

[MindJob]

Remember, with the LVL10, more than likely you will be using a heavier spring than the stock on. Once you have the LVL10 installed, you may have to crank up the velocity to get it to fire. It will need more pressure to overcome the heavier mainspring.

If air starts hissing out of the back, use a smalller mainspring.

If you cant get a decent velocity without air hissing out of the back, you will need to call AGD and explain the problem. They will tell you te get a new reg piston.

It may all be a little fustrating, but once everything is up and running correctly you will love it. BTW, there are ways to make it even faster... but lets take one thing at a time.

My old RT Classic did all of the same things yours is doing. Once I got it right, the thing was a beast. My brother has it now and I stare longingly at it when we play. I miss it so much I am building a RTP right now to go along with my X-mag (and about 4 other guns).

Nah, I don't have problems ...

[YZILLA]

I tried cranking up the air to like 1000 psi and it still did nothing the bolt woudnt move. I think I will just call AGD and see what they think or maybe just send it to them and let them get it tuned .

[darthp]

just a thought but, did you adjust the pressure in your tank or your valve? You have to increase the pressure in your valve for the lvlX to work.

[CaliMagFan]

one of the major reasons for your recent chops might be the new trigger's geometry... you're probably used to the old frame, and that muscle memory is a hard thing to change... so you're most likely having trouble shooting in the same "timing" as you were before... i remember at NorCal vs Socal 04 i changed the length of the trigger rod on my classic mag cause i had a large deadzone where the trigger was not touching the trigger rod when fully out.... i decided to back the rod out about 2 or 3mm.... man what a mistake taht was... that tiny amount threw off my whole game and i was chopping like mad till i adjusted it back...

good luck with your issue, but i might say that LVL10 is a gift from the heavens as far as mags are concerned... so putting the money down for it would be a very wise decision...


-kyro

[YZILLA]

Ok i have just purchased this gun so I have never even see the field with it so im not used to the trigger pull yet . I have a new intelliframe with the blade trigger , A centerflag dynaflow 68/4500 tank setup and a level 10 now along with the hALO B loader. I have it shooting but I have the regulator turned all the way in and If I turn the input pressure up past 750 it starts leaking out of the end of the input adjuster hole on my tank
. im sure I have got this thing dialed in wrong somewhere . any advice ? i was hoping I could get this thing to Rapid fire so to speak like it was before I added the level 10 . I was breaking balls I assume to the high rate of fire from rapid firing with the old bolt in it . I want this gun to spray paint like crazy but not chop - I was told this is the setup to go to but have yet to get it working in that way .

[darthp]

I had a similar set up and I could get it to bounce like crazy at around 900 psi input. One thing I did was adjust the field strip screw to make it bounce more or less. Also you should not have the regulator on the back of the gun turned all the way up. Try backing it down some and then adjusting your input pressure the around 875, then adjusting your regulator on the back of the gun. Automags are a high pressure gun so you need more than 750 psi input for it to work correctly.

[White_Noise]

yzilla, check your other thread about your dynaflow problems. also, id just like to give my input on the rip drive. ive never had to use it cause my batteries died, like zman said, i justmake sure there are always fresh batteries in the hopper. however, z-code and v-baorded halos have a feature that turns the hopper into safe mode if it detects a jam.(prevents you from wearing out the motor) when this happens with a halo without rip, you must open the hopper up, and unjam it(usually by just turning the feedcone to lessen the pressure on the ball stack.) however with rip drive, there is no need to open the halo cause you can unjam it by turning the rip. ive also foumd that the rip has saved me when ive used marginal quility paint. sometimes, for no explainable reason, ive broken a ball inside of my hopper and paint residue has gotten on the hopper's eyes. if enough paint is on the eyes, the board thinks that there is no paint inside the feed tube, and will go into safe mode thinkging there is a jam. having the rip drive on, you can wind it up and get your 8shot strings to keep you in the game.


just my $.02, hope this helps

--mike