I bought a level 10 bolt off of eBay and it is coming with a Reactor on/off as a side dish. I've heard some people hear say it'll cause more problems than the stock on/off. That's probably true as I usually don't trust after market valve accessories. But what exactly is good about this that makes people want to install it?
Reactor on/off
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the only reviews ive heard on it have been bad ones.Yummy yummy yummy, I've got fun in my tummy.
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At the time the Reactor came out there were a lot of people trying to get more/better flow from on/off. Either buying new designed on/offs or modding OEM AGD on/off (origanal by cutting grooves in sides, not on/off's they have now).
I have one in my mag (and a spare) and don't have any problems. I don't have shootdown either.
I thought I had .jpg on how it goes in mag but I can't find it on harddrive
Last edited by spectre184; 11-30-2004, 08:14 PM.Comment
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You will need a special bushing for the rear hole. Other than that it eill work fine.Originally posted by BoydsterWhile I have a thread going, I found a stock grip frame on eBay that came off of an RT. Will that fit on my Classic? Keep the Reactor reviews coming also. Thanks.Comment
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What's a bushing?
Does the Reactor lighten the trigger pull like the ULE? The ULE takes it to 15- ounces. I heard the ULE causes short stroking more possible but that doesn't even matter if I have LX, does it? I'm hoping the Reactor is similar in function...
EDIT: Forgot to say I don't care in the least about shootdown. I'll never get my gun to 13 bps so hopefully this thing does more than stop shootdown.Comment
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GearAGD - "[/tom kaye shakes head in disbelief]"
RT Mag / Minimag / Pump Mag / Sydarm / ULT / Qloader / ELCD / RPG / 1989 Sterling / 2x F2 illustrator
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the bushing is the little round mettal thing in the rail the goes through the rail and in to the back of the gripframe and then the field strip screw goes through it.GearAGD - "[/tom kaye shakes head in disbelief]"
RT Mag / Minimag / Pump Mag / Sydarm / ULT / Qloader / ELCD / RPG / 1989 Sterling / 2x F2 illustrator
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So the Reactor is pointless for me... Won't increase air flow for the Classic and if I'm going to get problems with no benefits, it's staying out.
Do I have to buy the ULE kit to get the 15 oz. trigger pull? Is that the only product that does that?
Wait, did a Google search and found out it gives a reactive trigger pull similar to the RT, just not as strong. True?
Here's yet another article: http://www.pcri.net/access3.html <-Read the first paragraph. Thoughts?Comment
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The Reactor valve won't cause you problems. I've had mine for 6 years +/-.
THey say the ULT isn't as compatible for classic valves. Do a search here for ULT on classic valves and you will find that some people got them to work, others hasn't.Comment
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The reactor valve works fine, but there really is no need for the thing. Only problem is when you pull the valve you need to turn the gun upside down or the top part falls onto the ground. The biggest restriction in the valves is the oring that seals the on/off, theres only 1 hole where that pin seals but in all valve tops theres 4 holes on the sides that are roughly the same size. But all of those valves use the same oring to shut off at the pin.
As for the quick connects there is a small black oring in them that can get nicked and worn over time but they are simple to replace, just go to a hardware store and get replacements from the plumbing section of orings.Comment


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