xvalve mystery...

[Langjai147]

ok so i just recieved my xvalve in the mail today...it was pretty stoked hearing everyone saying good things about it...so i installed it along with the ULE trigger kit, put it in the body, gassed it up...and it went fully auto when i pressed the trigger...i pressed the trigger about 3 times then the bolt stuck, or i assumed something stuck cuz when i pressed the trigger nothing happend...i took the valve off and tried everything...adding spacer size, adding shims etc...nothing cured it...i then decided to put the valve on the old body, rail, and trigger frame,..gassed it up and it did what it was suppose to do...

this totally puzzled me i couldnt understand y it worked on my old stuff but not my new...i currently have a rpg splinter rail, ule left side warp body, and intelli frame...shouldn't this work? it worked in the beginning...something is sticking...but i dont know what...please i need some serious help...im pretty sure spacers and shims have nothing to do with this...something is blocking the sear from allowing the on/off pin to completely be in position when it is gassed up..

[wanna-b-ballin']

could it be the body?

when i modded my minimag body to fit my RTP rail, the hole for the on/off wasn't lined up right. i filed it a little, and then the sear was able to push the pin all the way.

could that be it?

[Langjai147]

when i looked at the alignment of the body and the trigger sear it seems to be aligned just fine, but there is no way in knowing if the on/off is aligned to the sear through the body...i have tried installing the valve to the body and rail with out the trigger frame...i gassed it up while holding down the sear and it seems to function properly...i suppose i COULD file down the hole to make it bigger so it can hit the on/off properly...would it work if i just drilled a bigger whole?

what if this does not fix the problem what then?...any more suggestions?...i have used the classic automag valve on the ule body and rpg rail with intelli frame and it shot fine...could the problem be something other than the sear not being aligned with the on/off pin? i dont wanna drill or file anything that i dont need to...

[sol tank]

is one of the frame screws in to far or not enough?

also, how many shims in teh ULT?

[Langjai147]

i have tried 1 shim, 2 shims, even 3!! same result...tried to tighten the frame screw tight and loose either way it doesnt work...anymore ideas?...cuz im all out

[athomas]

First, adjust your level 10 to slide with minimal restriction. Don't use any shims. Then remove all shims from your ULT. Start adding ULT shims until it fires correctly and consistently.

There may be differences in on-off distances between your two setups. That is why your valve works in one but not the other. Once you get your ULT tuned to the proper distance, it should work in your new setup as well.

[Langjai147]

should i tune the bolt on my old body, rail and frame? since it doesnt even move on the new set up? when the valve is in the new body. rail and frame it can be gassed up with no leaks the sear kicks the trigger like it is ready to be fired but once i pull the trigger nothing happens, i tried pushing in the bolt because i assumed the bolt was sticking but i was pressing really hard and it didnt budge. even turned off the gass to do this and it didnt budge so i dont think it was a bold stick...my thumbs hurt from unscrewing the screws so much..LOL im not giving up on this...ive tried disassembling the whole valve, oiling it, turning the velocity up, still nothing...

how do i tune the ULT if it doesnt fire in my new set up? i have added up to 3 shims should i add more?

what puzzles me is when i FIRST gassed it up it fired auto for bout 3 trigger pulls then it just didnt work anymore after that until it put it on the old set up...

[93civiccpe]

Hmm... by hand slide the valve into the body and look and see if it looks like the on/off pin can come down freely through that hole.

Something did just catch my eye though.. are you using the same sear on each setup and the same triggerframe?? I'm not sure if you are using the same on each, but from reading the above it appears you might be using different triggerframes. If so, the sear might need to be adjusted for the newer trigger frame. Try this. When the gun is all the way gassed up, put your finger in the breach and push back on the bolt an see if it clicks and "catches" on the sear. also, if pulling the trigger isn't working, try putting something inbetween the back of the trigger and the pin, and then pull the trigger so that it pushes the pin back further. If this works, then either you are using a new sear with the new setup that hasn't been adjusted yet, or else your old trigger frame required the pin to be set further back so you just need to unscrew it a little more for this frame. This is just one of the many minor problems I've seen while working on people's mags.. maybe this is what's happening to you.
Please let us know if anything has helped and how you are able to resolve this!

[Langjai147]

i assumed the same thing last night, i used to different sear set ups on from the old mag and the other is from the new one, i tried extending the rod of the sear by unscrewing it...that didnt seem to work, then i tried shortening it, that didnt work either...

now im thinking maybe the bolt ISN'T catching the front of the sear, maybe im not manually pressing the bolt back hard enough...do i need to press it down pretty hard? and i do this when it is gassed up right?

[93civiccpe]

when it's gassed up you really shouldn't have to push it back hard at all until you hear the click. I would be careful with that though.. even though lvl-10 can be soft when tuned, if it were to fire with your finger in the chamber you could hurt your finger pretty bad if it isn't tuned.

My guess is that your culprit lies within the ult. The on/off pin isn't sitting low enough for you to push it all the way in probably. try removing all of the ult shims (not the lvl-10 shims) and try shooting it. Keep adding shims if necessary until it shoots consistently. Then you will have to worry about tuning lvl-10. Also, another problem you may be having is that the ult shims and lvl-10 shims look the exact same, but they are different thicknesses. I can't remember how it goes but it's either one ult shim equals two lvl-10 shims or the other way around. In any case, if you are using shims that are twice the size, then you could really be adding too much space and making the on/off pin sit too high causing your problem. Also, you should be lubricating that on/off with some sort of paintball oil/lube as well. I usually hit it with a few drops in there if I haven't played mine for a while. Try taking out all the shims, lubing it up good, putting it in, and make sure you just make the body and rear screws hand tight, not over tightened, and let us know what happens.

[93civiccpe]

and just a shot in the dark, you are using the correct sear for that rail aren't you?? I know the old RT or RTPro rails needed a different sear than the classic AM/MM rails. I have no idea about the splinter rail as far as which sear it needs. If you have the wrong sized sear I'm not even sure if it will fit. I have never had this problem but I just was thinking about the fact that there are 2 different sized sears. I have used a bunch of rogue's products and have been very happy with them, but I've never had one of his splinter rails.. yet. Anyways, someone else can also add insight as to whether or not this may be an issue.

[Langjai147]

i feel like im all out of ideas, everything everyone is saying is great, but the problem is that i have tried everything, or so i think i am...maybe i am doing something wrong while tinkering with it...when i get home from work ill start over again...ill start with no shims and work my way up from there...

i agree that the on/off pin is not being allowed to be released all the way...do i fix this by adding shims?

hmm i dont think i can tell the shims apart...looks like it is trial and error for me

[Langjai147]

im using an RT PRO sear in the rail, should i be using an RT sear instead? and do you think the axle pin matters if i use the same RT PRO sear for an RT?

[93civiccpe]

umm.. if you put them side by side on a counter and look you should be able to see if one is taller if you look closely... but yes, they are small. Anyways, what area do you live?? Maybe you will get lucky and find out you live close to one of the techie guys on here who can give you a hand in person. Let us know how your dealings go tonight. It is working with one frame but not another, it just leads me to believe that something isn't lining up right, whether the hole needs to be filed a little or whether the pin isn't far enough down and the ult needs to be adjusted. Anyways, please let us know how it goes and what you find. hopefully it's just something simple like you were using the wrong sized shims so instead of putting 3 in you were putting the equivalent of 6 in, or only 1.5 in depending on which ones you were using.

[93civiccpe]

Hey,
this is the easiest way I can tell you. I don't know which sear that rail should use, but I believe the pin is the same (I'm almost sure but someone jump in if I'm incorrect). Anyways, here's what you do. Put the body on the rail and put the screw up into it just to hold it in place, without the triggerframe. Leave the triggerframe off. Then put the valve in the back and put the back fieldstrip screw in to hold it in place. Now look from the bottom and look at where the sear is hitting. It should be obvious if it's the wrong sear because it won't be hitting the on/off button. Use whichever sear is correct. You may also be able to see if the sear is binding on the body and if the hole needs to be widened.