i live in southern california in a city called corona its JUST outside of orange county in the inland empire...any techies here?
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unfortunately I live on the other coast (in Virginia) but I know someone has to be that way who can help you. If not, I just found out that the shims in the ult are the skinnier ones. Anyways, I would first put the valve in the body and see if it appears that button is binding up. I'd also check on making sure the sear is hitting where it is supposed to. Unfortunately I don't think that it is one of these problems after re-reading some of your posts.
If you were able to get the classic valve to work and not the x-valve in the same body & rail & trigger, it might be a binding issue, but it leads me to believe it's just the ULT. pull out the ULT. Unscrew it and take all the shims out. The fewer shims the longer the pin. Anyways, verify that these are the skinnier shims. Put it back together (and lubricate) with no shims in it. Air it up and see if it will fire now. If so, then go back and add 1 of the skinny shims and put it back together & etc and try again. Keep adding shims until it goes into runaway (fires automatically). When you add a shim and it makes it go automatic, take that shim out and you should be set. You can find more details and see if any of the answers to problems in this ULT sticky thread help:
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Have you tried taking out the ULT and running with a standard On/Off? That way you can tell if it is a problem with the ULT or the valve.Originally posted by 93civiccpesigpic
CPPA Member #1875Comment
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Just a stupid question, but how high of an input pressure are you running into the gun? You should keep 750 psi minimum to work the gun properly. If your tank is below this then get it filled and try again and see what happens.
Keep us updated.Comment
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^^ Good advice... and another thing I just thought of.. if this is a brand new x-valve, you did turn the velocity up didn't you?? Both of my x-valves I got new came with the velocity set so low they wouldn't really cycle without turning up the velocity. If it is something that simple then that's funny.Comment
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Well, if the valve cycles perfectly in the othr body, rail and frame, then it's not the valve that is your problem. I'm going to take a wild guess here and say that you've not used the new body, rail and frame before on anything, have you?
It sounds to me like you didn't put a frame spacer into the rail. It's a little brass collar that holds the frame and rail in alignment. If you don't have one, 'mags go crazy.
The other possibility is that someone changed the length of the sear push pin. Make sure you have about 1 mm of space between the back of the trigger and the front of the pin when it's gassed up.Before: "You're playing with WHAT?"
After: "Crap! It's that guy with the pump!"Comment
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my tank is preset at 800, i turned the velocity all the way up as suggested...YES i did tinker with he sear pin...newbie mistake...now i need to fix that too hmm where can i pick up a frame spacer? my classic mag doesnt seem to have one and it works fine...also the new body worked fine when the old valve was in it...but i have a technician calling me after work tonight to help me out with it, hopefully we can set it back to working status...its stressing me out...someone beer me...LOL
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yea i need a "MAG doctor"Comment
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I do believe we could call Rogue one of the many "Mag Doctors"... shoot, he's probably even a "Mag Surgeon"... =PComment
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Nah! He's neither. A proctologist maybe! HAH!Originally posted by 93civiccpe
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im heading home in a few to work on this..i will keep everyone posted on how my mag is doing...Comment
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Each level 10 spacer is the same as 2 ULT spacers. It sounds like the ULT on-off pin is not coming out far enough to allow air flow into the front chamber. You can "shorten the on-off pin" by putting in more ULT shims. Keep adding shims until it fires or at least attempts to fire. Too many ULT shims and it will fire at least one shot and get bolt stick, so we know its not that problem. Another thing to consider is using the shortest bolt spring until you get it working. This reduces the operating pressure required to fire the mag and thus reduces one of the potential problems.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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here is an update...after work i have been tuning this for the past hour...the tech still hasnt called yet...but i talked to him earlier today and he said i need at least 5 shims in the ULT...so i went home and added 5...i heard barrel leak!!! PROGRESS!! i pulled the trigger...and nothing...so i added 2 more shims 7 shims total...i forgot which carrier i added but when i did it went fully auto...i think now i just need to find the right combo...ive been getting barrel leak, and i can fire seldomly...im gettin a little more excited now...slowly but surely i will have this done!...more updates to comeComment
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woohoo!!! i got it fixed...it was fixed on thursday but i couldnt post it cuz the forums were down...the problem ended up being the combination of shims and carriers were all wrong...in my set up now i have 6 shims in the ult, 2 shims in the bolt along with the 0 carrier...im using the smallest spring as well. i went out yesterday and i shot bout 200 rounds to break it in i had 2 chops only cuz i short stroked the trigger...but it was totally consistant and im ready to go out and play...sean was the certified tech who helped me out and it took probably 30 min or less...if i have any more probs im definately going to him again...oh yeah and another thing y my gun was weird was cuz i messed with the sear assembly...i tweeked it back...and put some adhesive on it so it wont move and i was good to go...but bottom line...i got it tuned and im ready for action...whos coming with me?..hahaha
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