Leaky Mag!!!!!!!!!!

**Coralis** · 10-30-2005, 08:08 PM

The large Oring that goes around the outside of the Lab regulator is probably leaking some, either that or one of your on/off orings are leaking.

**wishone** · 10-30-2005, 08:45 PM

Originally posted by Coralis

The large Oring that goes around the outside of the Lab regulator is probably leaking some, either that or one of your on/off orings are leaking.

the LAB reg oring is that the big blue 1 ?????? is there some type of a diagram that you might have to help me out some ?@! . thanx alot man ....

**wishone** · 10-31-2005, 09:23 AM

Originally posted by wishone

the LAB reg oring is that the big blue 1 ?????? is there some type of a diagram that you might have to help me out some ?@! . thanx alot man ....

come on guys???

**athomas** · 10-31-2005, 11:32 AM

A leak that stops when you hold the trigger in is usually caused by a bad powertube oring or a spacer that is too long. Needing a shorter spacer could be caused if there is a bit of wear on the sear.

If it is not the powertube area and is actually the on-off area, then it is probably your bottom on-off oring (the one around the on-off assembly).

If you are always running air, then you should remove the inline regulator and get a gas through grip. The additional regulator will restrict the air flow to your valve and could cause shoot down or short stroking issues.

**wishone** · 10-31-2005, 02:16 PM

Originally posted by athomas

A leak that stops when you hold the trigger in is usually caused by a bad powertube oring or a spacer that is too long. Needing a shorter spacer could be caused if there is a bit of wear on the sear.

If it is not the powertube area and is actually the on-off area, then it is probably your bottom on-off oring (the one around the on-off assembly).

If you are always running air, then you should remove the inline regulator and get a gas through grip. The additional regulator will restrict the air flow to your valve and could cause shoot down or short stroking issues.

THe inline reg is from an early model cocker and i removed all the internals from it .....it was the only style i liked ...but i am looking for a gasthru as we speak but i want something identical to the reg in running now (looks wise) ...... im pretty sure the powertube ring is new ..... i cant seem to paste the exploded view on here so if you can put it up and help me out and show me exactly which one the powertube oring is . thanxx alot athomas!

**Asym** · 10-31-2005, 03:41 PM

Pull the bolt off the valve, the power tube tip(brass piece on the front) needs to be removed. If its a level 7 find the right tool (a nickel) and remove the power tube tip. There will either be a spring or spacer that comes out followed by the power tube o-ring. Check the o-ring to make sure its fine, if it is pick up a power tube spacer kit and go to the next shorter size like Athomas suggested.

**wishone** · 10-31-2005, 07:24 PM

Originally posted by Asym

Pull the bolt off the valve, the power tube tip(brass piece on the front) needs to be removed. If its a level 7 find the right tool (a nickel) and remove the power tube tip. There will either be a spring or spacer that comes out followed by the power tube o-ring. Check the o-ring to make sure its fine, if it is pick up a power tube spacer kit and go to the next shorter size like Athomas suggested.

perfect !!! i will take apart the gun in about 20 minnutes after dinner and post some more pics and let you guys see the stuff for your selves . how do i know if i have a a stock level 7 or a level 10 like mst of the people on here? i know that its not stock cuz its half black and says hurricane or something like that on it . as you can see in the above pics. ima post pics of all the internals layter tonight .. thanxx a million every1 thats helping me

**Asym** · 11-01-2005, 02:22 PM

Hurricane is the back half of the valve, it was a "upgrade" made by diamond labs, they came in aluminum(black) and titanium(purple). ANS and a few others made them also, it was to fix the air holes not lining up in some of the older classic valves, also know as the 8 hole mod, most agree it didn't help a bit. I have the titanium version too.

Level 10 is a bolt type, it will be hollow in the center of the piston(small tube that fits into the power tube) on the back of the bolt. Your power tube tip will take a wrench to remove also. Level 7 is the older style bolt with a solid piston in the bolt and the power tube tip has a slot to remove it with a nickel or slotted screw driver. The level 10 helps to not chop balls at the cost of a little efficiency in air and requires slightly more tuning than the older level 7 bolts.

**Head knight of Ni** · 11-01-2005, 03:29 PM

Sounds to be a bad oring in the bottom of the on/off. Try replacing the two orings on the bottom (stainless piece) of the on/off assem.

**wishone** · 11-05-2005, 12:40 PM

o0k so here it goes i changed the oring inside the stainless steel line ......
[IMG][/IMG]
then i changed these two ........
[IMG][/IMG]
then i took out the spacer and changed it for a .225 which is whats in there right now .....
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
soo i put it back together and the leak is still there .... i also noticed when i start rapid fire .. only the first shot is hard and then every 1 after that is pretty much crap !!

soo if ne1 can give me some i still dont know which is the power tube seal you guys are telling me to change maybe i already did ... use these pics to guide me please ... thanx alot guys ... dont know what i would do without this forum ....o0h and sooo basically this hurricane back part to my valve doesnt do much ... lol
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

**wishone** · 11-05-2005, 01:21 PM

holy ........ sooo i found an extra one of these abd boys whatever it is ... i think on/off somthing and the leak whent away ....................
[IMG][/IMG]

so ima go fill my tank completly and do a couple test shots ......ill let you guys know whats up ... ima try and do a little video ... i have a cheap chrono soo ill brb in a few hours

**Coralis** · 11-06-2005, 08:38 AM

That bottom picture is of the on/off bottom, there is another piece still that sits in the same hole called the on/off top and two Orings that sit under the brass on/off top.

BTW here is a diagram from the AGD website

**wishone** · 11-06-2005, 05:24 PM

o0k so i went to play today ........... the gun seems to be leaking down the barrel some ...... i shoot once or twice and it goes away .. then shoot once more and it comes back

and to top it off ..... now its starting to leak from the back screw ??? even when i turn the pressure down it still leaks. and the back leak also comes and goes

... ahhhhhh i love the gun sooo much im not even that frustraded

soo come on gurus what do i change now ??????

**Coralis** · 11-06-2005, 08:08 PM

First off heres a link to the debuging procedure on the AGD website http://www.airgun.com/Techinfo.shtml

Secondly you need a automag repair kit

OK lets start at the top have you oiled your mag the best way do this is to put a few drops of oil directly into the air line that attached to the valve and then dry fire the gun a few times to circulate the oil.

It sounds like you need to replace the two orings in the on/off assembly , you have to remove the on/off top and bottom to access the orings , remember to put a bit of oil on the new oring and put in the valve just like the laser etched drawing on the valve shows. This should hopefully take care of the leaking down the barrel

Next you need unscrew the velocity adjuster all the way out and pull out the regulator piston , either the piston is bad or the oring is.... we are going to assume the oring is bad and replace it again remember to put some oil on the oring once you have the oring installed reinstall the piston assembly and the velocity adjuster back in

Reassemble your valve and air it up and see how she shoots now .... you will mostly likely have to fiddle with the velocity to adjustment to get the gun to shoot again as it will probably be too low to start.

Leaky Mag!!!!!!!!!!

Leaky Mag!!!!!!!!!!

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