ULT = Runaway :: Help!!

[Resurection]

Yes. The ULT top piece only has a few threads, if you use a lot of shims it tightens down and holds the shims tight. If you don't need many shims it screws on then drops down after its past its couple of threads and when installed into the valve will compress to that size. The threads just keep the on/off from coming apart during removal so you won't loose shims.

Gently tug the top and bottom of the on/off apart, if it doesn't come apart without unscrewing it its working fine.

Did you test that smack on the back of the gun aired up with no power to the electronics to eleminate a micro switch problem?

OK, I have tried with 5, 4, 3, and now 2 shims in the ULT. All same result and the less shiims I have in the more often I get a minor air leak from the on/off until it reseals.

However, airing up and firing causes it to run away, so I turn the board off and smack the back and NO fire. So it might be a microswitch problem. I am PM'ing/Emailing Chris and Tuna about this.

Anyone else experience this situation?

[Asym]

What kind of return is on the trigger, meaning is the trigger only returned by the microswitch itself or is there another spring or magnets to help it return after pulling it. If its only using the micro switch to return the trigger a light switch can easily fire with just the weight of the trigger when the guns is bumped or smacked on the back. If the trigger is only being returned by the switch only and its a light switch you might need to add springs, magnets, or a heavier switch to help return the trigger. Small magnets can be easily added to test this.

Another thing that is common is your trigger is adjusted to tightly onto the switch trying to give it a short pull. It might be adjusted to right at the activation point. If its got a forward travel adjustment on the trigger give it a little more slack to see if it helps. If theres a small gap between your switch and trigger, you'll know this isn't the problem.

edit.
yes I've had this problem on a dragun frame on my mag. Once was because the triggers weight so I added the magnets, and when adjusting it as short as possible I shortened the forward travel too much.

[flyingpootang]

With the Predd II board the debounce and trigger activation work very close together. Also make sure to check your fire setting to semi & global ROF. If your activation point is at the very end with no space after activation your debounce will seem usless. Pm me if you need help....

[Resurection]

I have a Mini-Morlock board and here are the potential culprits according to Chris:

really can only be 3 things causing that. it will either be the micro switch, the sear worn out or you debounce (register 3) is too low

I am going to test these theories out this week. On another note, I took the DMag to Hudson this past weekend and it ripped the American team to shreds all day long. Woot! All the way up until my ReloaderB drivecone decided to break the tab that holds the spring. Doh!

[minimag03]

How did you get the valve to fit in the body with 9 shims in the ULT? I want to know .

[Resurection]

Finally got around to playing with the various options for problems...

the microswitch appears to be fine.

my sear looks pretty good, but I don't really have a lot of experience knowing the difference.

finally, my Electronic and Mechanical Anti bounce - Register 3 setting was like a 2, so I bumped that all the way to 20, as well as upping my Fire Hold Off - Register 7 to 20 as well. It seems to have calmed way down and only goes nuts when I use Fire modes 6 & 7. 6 is the Fast Ramping and 7 is the Triplet Ramping which make it go insane anyway. But I have not been able to get it to go full auto on its own anymore and that is good.

Semi through Smooth Ramp all work great. I don't know how my dwell got set to 2, I guess too much screwing around on the field showing off

Thanks for the input and if it goes nuts again I will be back to let you all help me again.

[flyingpootang]

Finally got around to playing with the various options for problems...

the microswitch appears to be fine.

my sear looks pretty good, but I don't really have a lot of experience knowing the difference.

finally, my Electronic and Mechanical Anti bounce - Register 3 setting was like a 2, so I bumped that all the way to 20, as well as upping my Fire Hold Off - Register 7 to 20 as well. It seems to have calmed way down and only goes nuts when I use Fire modes 6 & 7. 6 is the Fast Ramping and 7 is the Triplet Ramping which make it go insane anyway. But I have not been able to get it to go full auto on its own anymore and that is good.

Semi through Smooth Ramp all work great. I don't know how my dwell got set to 2, I guess too much screwing around on the field showing off

Thanks for the input and if it goes nuts again I will be back to let you all help me again.

With your trigger make shure it has additional aft movement after the switch clicks. If your debounce is at 20 that usally is the problem. Try and move the actuation point futher up....