Finished my First Pnuemag (Pics soon!)

[PnueMagger]

I finally finished my first Pnuemag conversion. I gotta thank Phishphen for his fabulous thread I will Post pics tonight when I get back to the dorm. but I'll give the setup details now.

Polished X-Valve
Polished Powerfeed Left Body
Chrome Intelliframe w/ Blade Trigger and Trigger Stops.
Polished Dye Excel
Polished Foregrip w/ Chrome STO LPR Installed
Polished Classic Rail With internal Milling for the Hoses
Clear SP Grips (Anyone wanna donate some Sticky 3's?)
LvL 10 and ULT installed
Pink LPR hose
3000psi Flatline (@ AGD for tuneup)
and oh yeah:modiified MSV-1??

[PnueMagger]

So i got some new pics of the finished Product! Also I apologize for my homework on my messy dorm bed. I want to apologize for the chromeness of my marker and the inability of my camera to get a close up trigger shot focused. I tried my best. To help you out here is an example of the shortness of pull. I managed to fit 4 sheets of printer paper between the rigger stop and the frame. Average computer paper is about .24mm thick so this equates to about .96mm of travel. even if I was of by 1 or 2 sheets, thats still a super short pull. Click For full Size Pics (56k beware!):

My Full Marker (And HW).


My Trigger pull distance (the bottom black is the trigger stop and the top is the trigger rod).


My STO LPR and internal air lines.


up...for the new pics.

[Cow hunter]

thats nice! how fast can you rip on it? and i bet people are going to think thats a cocker now..... look at those pneumatics! how much did you have to spend to get all the way to your finished project?

[PnueMagger]

I haven't been able to get a full up and running speed test, because i installed a brand new 3000 flatline on my tank and it had such bad shootdown I could rip @ .5 BPS . Needless to say it should be arriving @ AGD today.

But when i just air up the pnuematics i estimate about 10-11. I really don't know how fast I can pull, but my brothers stock Dragun Compact is 10BPS limited and I can get it to miss shots w/out too much effort. So I estimate that I'd could sustain maybe 11-12??? And I can rip almost 100% percent on this. It's just really fun. A new style of shooting though, you kind of gotta concentrate on the walking motion almost like it was a ULT. You can't just tap the side of the trigger like a sensitive electro.

when some kid @ my feild asks what kind of cocker I have, I'll tell him the new '06 Trilogy T.K. OBT (open Bolt Technology). That the Open Bolt Shoots further and more accurate than closed bolt guns! Then I'll shoot it and he'll be like, "Wow, that's accurate! It does Shoot further! Where'd you get it." I'm going to singlehandedly bring back Open Bolts

I had the X-Valved mag already ($300 2yrs ago)
for the pnuematics $35-40 (But I got spare stuff too)
Chrome Intelli $60
STO LPR $15
Machine Shop Free
Never running out of batteries, Priceless.

[neppo1345]

That, my friend, is very nice...

I like the fact you mounted the reg out front like that rather than trying to mount it in the grip frame.

You're going to make the poor kiddies heads explode telling them it's a cocker...they may poop their pants...

If you want the LPR to stop jumping when the tank runs low...just make sure you don't let you're tank pressure get below the output pressure of youe reg...

Or get a better LPR...

Where do you play?...Akrons about 30-45 minutes away when I'm at home for the summer...maybe I'll stop and check it out.

[behemoth]

Woah, how didnt i realize neppo was from ohio, nor pnuemagger....

Where do you guys play?

- Also, why'd you chop your trigger guard?

[neppo1345]

I'm in Cincinnati right now (unfortuneately)...but I usually reside from a suburb of youngstown...

I think you have to chop the guard to drill a hole for the rod that actuates the MSV-1

[behemoth]

I'm in Cincinnati right now (unfortuneately)...but I usually reside from a suburb of youngstown...

I think you have to chop the guard to drill a hole for the rod that actuates the MSV-1

Yeah, or drill a hole in the guard too....

[neppo1345]

If you have a long enough drill bit...

[benzy2]

ok since nobody asked what did you do custom to the 3way to make it better? Please post up some pics as well of it. You seemed to do a very quality job on the install. I like the internal hose from the lpr.

[BigEvil]

Very good job. Another home-brew Pneumag!!

I fail to see how Pro-team thinks that there isnt a market for theirs.

Oh, btw, definately ditch the Sledgehammer reg and go with teh Micro rock. It will make you life much much easier.



Also, does anyone know if a mod like this would work with a standard on/off or do you definately need the ULT?

[PnueMagger]

Oh, btw, definately ditch the Sledgehammer reg and go with teh Micro rock. It will make you life much much easier.

Also, does anyone know if a mod like this would work with a standard on/off or do you definately need the ULT?

I wish I could ditch the STO LPR. It was still leaking even w/ teflon tape from the 1/8"NPT I made. So I Just sealed the treads w/ 3000lbs epoxy. Seals grat...forever...and ever. I wonder if I could get it off sucessfully. Anywho, I works good as long as things are consistent.

I had the standard on/off in the valve when I first tested. You just have to increase the LPR output. It even works a Classic valve w/out ULT! But higher pressure=more trigger pull force. And makes it really difficult to walk. Still a great trigger pull, even w/out the ULT. I actually may put the ULT in my classic valve and use that for this mod so I can still have my X-valve for regular use. FYI- ULT in rt-valves are SO MUCH LIGHTER than ULT'sin the Classics

BENZY2...
Everyone loves the clippard smav-3 for it's size and the fabco for its performance. I tried to get the best of both worlds. The top 1/3 of the MSV-1 is pretty useless (solid brass). you can actually shave off nearly a 1/3 of the height bringing it basically into the same size package as the smav-3. This allows you to bring it up closer to the trigger pivot as close as posiible. JUST BE CAREFUL AND DONT SHAVE TOO MUCH!!

Also, read ZapTheMad's post on the MSV-1 sealing problem. http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...light=phishmag You can take the actuation distance of the valve basically to nothing. But i find it is easiest to walk with a longer actuation. I was just showing that mine actuates w/ ~.9mm. I actually set it up for 2.5mm

Finally get the Msv-1 Spring out of there. It will return with air pressure. Although this hasn't worked reliably for everyone, I find it great. However, Only do this w/ a ULT setup, cause it's like 20% of the net pull force. Unless you have ULT there will be no perceptible change. I'm sure that this would actually hinder performance @ highr rates of fire. But I can't pull 15 BPS so screw it.

[PnueMagger]

Oh, I'll post pics of one of my modded MSV-1's (for sale ) after work around 11:30 tonight. I originially had it secured with the epoxy, but the epoxy didn't hold to the polished chrome and the marker vibrations separated the chrome & Epoxy. I was like, "It's alive! hahahaha", [chuff, pink, hiss, chuff]
So then i used a bolted on new one. I plan on removing the excess epoxy when someone buys it or I make my next frame.

I live in Tallmadge (3mins from Akron) I generally play @ extreme PB in Canton or in the woods along route 76. Nowhere cheap to play in cleveland (I go to case western reserve univ). $100/case for rec paint @ PB City. They're all .I'm really more of a woodsballer. So this new marker setup will help me blend in

[slade]

Oh, I'll post pics of one of my modded MSV-1's (for sale ) after work around 11:30 tonight. I originially had it secured with the epoxy, but the epoxy didn't hold to the polished chrome and the marker vibrations separated the chrome & Epoxy.

like this?



i didnt like my pneumag. it really wasnt walkable at all, and yes, i did have it moved up fairly far in the frame. it was a light pull, just not walkable enough. i found out that you really dont need a QEV though, so im probably going to use an unmodified cylinder which should allow me to raise the MSV-1 even higher in the frame. either that or just make it electropneumatic.

i had one problem with the cylinder though, i epoxied a piece of aluminum i made on my lathe onto the delrin piston, but after a few hundred cycles it broke. now i think im just going to try milling the whole piston out of brass... now i just need some brass

oh... and this is why you use 6061 aluminum instead of home depot aluminum

[PnueMagger]

precisely! Try taking the spring out it for some lighter actuation. Slade, are running a ULT setup in your Classisc Valve or RT valve. So you say there is no need for a QEV? Do you have short stroking or does it vent fast enough for an x-valve? Perhaps the lack of QEV is the reason the piston rod broke. What Broke in the piston assembly? Also, try shortening the actuation and making the seal better w/ the mod found in Phishphen's thread that I posted a link to. That's the best mod yet.

I have an MSV-2 (the one with the lever) and I'm going try that in there sometime, the pull on that lever is a little longer (1/8") but lighter than any electro I've felt

PS- slade, what is that aluminum from? Also, I wouldn't go with brass for a piston, too heavy, not efficient. The pisiton cylinder is already brass so it will self lubricate with any metal you throw in there for a piston. Get on Ebay, get some 3/8" FORTAL ALUMINUM stock (supposedly beter that steel), Turn it down like 2-5 thousanths and put a VERY SHALLOW groove for the old Buna-n U-cup seal from the delrin. FORTAL ALUMINUM wont mushroom at impact. You shouldn't need a piston spring or retaining clip if you have an Xvalve, It wil push itself back and wont ever slide out. That would lower PSI and Force also! Oh and BTW...Make me one, i don't own a lathe, I'll pay you.