My Mag Is Leaking And Not Shooting

[AutoMagClassic1]

when i give it air the bolt gets pushed up a short distance. is it supposed to and would it be that the spring is worn out maybe?
i just bought a new AM/MM thinking that could be the problem and it wasnt... PLEASE HELP ME!!!!

[athomas]

- Air it up with the trigger held.
- release the trigger. You should hear a click and the trigger should have pressure on it if you pull it.
- fire the mag
- if it doesn't fire, increase the velocity adjustment clockwise.
- fire the mag.
- If it doesn't fire, try increasing the velocity more and more until it does fire.

For more information, give complete detailed information about your symptoms and your setup.

[AutoMagClassic1]

could it be that the spring is too loose?

[athomas]

The sear holds the bolt in place. Even without a spring, you can air a mag up as long as the bolt is back.

One possibility is a leaking on-off top oring. It could let air slip past which could push the bolt forward even if the trigger is held. However, if the sear is in place, the bolt will never go forward even if the on-off top is leaking. You can check for on-off top leaks by holding the trigger in while the mag is gassed up. If you hear a continuous leak out the front, whether it is a hiss or a psst psst, then one of those two orings are bad. If you have a level 10 it may hiss for a tiny bit and then eventually stop.

[AutoMagClassic1]

The sear holds the bolt in place. Even without a spring, you can air a mag up as long as the bolt is back.

One possibility is a leaking on-off top oring. It could let air slip past which could push the bolt forward even if the trigger is held. However, if the sear is in place, the bolt will never go forward even if the on-off top is leaking. You can check for on-off top leaks by holding the trigger in while the mag is gassed up. If you hear a continuous leak out the front, whether it is a hiss or a psst psst, then one of those two orings are bad. If you have a level 10 it may hiss for a tiny bit and then eventually stop.
Reply With Quote

i just bought a new on off for it... BRAND NEW from AGD... so i know its not that...
the sear doesnt get pushed up at all to even work... should i lube up the sear "joints" and see if thats what it was? the sear pin wont move out..

[athomas]

So, you replaced both orings at the top of the on-off assembly with new ones? You should be good then.

Does you gun have a level 10 bolt or level 7?

[AutoMagClassic1]

IT HAS A lvl 7 and i really dont know why it would do this its a tank ..... but could it be that the spring is worn? also i jsut checked again...if theres not enough pressure the sear wont movie forward correct?
also is there a special way the sear goes in? if so it might not be right... uhm.. i oiled the sear..
all i know about the on/off is that i just bought this...

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=202&categoryID=18

i held down the trigger and heard a very faint clicking sound... although the gun did not shoot... at all

[AutoMagClassic1]

Help Me Please!

[athomas]

A weak spring could cause bolt stick between shots but the mag would fire. Low pressure could cause the orings to not get properly seated which would allow leakage into the front chamber. What is your bottle tank pressure and output pressure? Was the velocity setting on the mag turned up?

[AutoMagClassic1]

i have no clue all i know is that my tank is 47/3000 but anyways... im taking it in to a pro shop today thank you a lot.

[Drego]

when i give it air the bolt gets pushed up a short distance. is it supposed to and would it be that the spring is worn out maybe?
i just bought a new AM/MM thinking that could be the problem and it wasnt... PLEASE HELP ME!!!!

I hope you don't find out the hard lesson i learned today at the field. My mag started leaking through the barrel after my first game and I had no clue what might cause this. Never had the gun apart but it was easily disassembled and I had a lvl 10 kit that came with the gun. figured I had a bad o-ring and figured out how to disassemble the xvalve. I installed a new white washer, original shims and another o-ring carrier. Thought I had reinstalled everything properly and when gassed up, no air leaks but it wouldn't fire. I didn't have any exploded view of the xvalve. Basically all day at the field with only 2 games of play and the rest of the time tearing the xvalve apart numerous times. I noticed the sear wasn't coming out far enough to be engaged by a trigger pull and wondered if somehow a part had been lost with my unfamiliarity with the valve. Day ended at the field and gun still wouldn't fire. Drove home cursing all kind of things and immediately i fired up my pc to take a look at the exploded view of the xvalve.

Come to find out, I had installed the o-ring carrier in backwards and this was the cause of the sear not being able to be engaged by the trigger. Once back together, my original barrel leak came back and through removing the shims, air leak resolved and gun is able to be fired. I just need to see if the performance is still the same before all of this crap arised.

[AutoMagClassic1]

o ring carrier? i have a classic valve... if you could show my through an exploded view.?

[Coralis]

Honestly it sounds like the velocity is way low try turning it up some. When you put air to the mag you should hear a click and the sear rod should push the trigger shoe forward. If you turn the velocity up to far it will leak out the back just turn it down some from there.

[AutoMagClassic1]

ok will try when i get some AIR@!!!!

[Head knight of Ni]

Also, make sure you do not tighten your field-strip screw too tightly. This causes the valve body to go askew, which leads to bolt stick, which has very similar symptoms to what you described.