e-mag wont fire in mech mode

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  • Geronimo7
    Registered User
    • Apr 2007
    • 419

    #1

    e-mag wont fire in mech mode

    here is the deal, just got some e-mag lowers for my mag
    i have x-valve with level ten, red spring, 1.5 carrier
    removed ule trigger from x valve and put the stock on off back in
    with a emag pin and quad oring i got from tuna
    made sure every thing was well lubed and bolted my ule body and xvalve on
    my new lowers. i got one click out of the valve and then nothing the sear pin barely sticks out of the frame behind the trigger. tank is a high press. crossfire.
    every time i de-gass, in order to remove the valve from the body i have to unscrew the body from the frame because the pin is not being pushed back up. i have also tried turning the velocity up as well, all the way up as a matter of fact. needless to say i am lost now.
    if i missed something let me know cause i just dont know what to try next. oh yeah
    saftey is off.
  • Russ
    Senior Membrane
    • Jul 2001
    • 1935

    #2
    does the gun fire in electro mode?


    measure the length of the trigger rod. It should be 2.125"

    the plunger should measure 3.005". The plunger should also move freely in the solenoid ('noid), that is, no binding at all, and be very smooth

    Comment

    • Geronimo7
      Registered User
      • Apr 2007
      • 419

      #3
      So far the gun will not fire in either mode. I do not have access to calipers to measure the rod and pin, perhaps after the weekend I will. I also have no reason to think those would have moved, from what I understand the lowers worked fine before they were mine. With the valve out I can move the sear easily, the rod seems to slide up and down easily as well.

      Comment

      • Russ
        Senior Membrane
        • Jul 2001
        • 1935

        #4
        Originally posted by Geronimo7
        So far the gun will not fire in either mode. I do not have access to calipers to measure the rod and pin, perhaps after the weekend I will. I also have no reason to think those would have moved, from what I understand the lowers worked fine before they were mine. With the valve out I can move the sear easily, the rod seems to slide up and down easily as well.

        OK, so the gun won't fire in ANY mode, glad we got that squared away....

        are you sure the valve is getting air? Can you hear the valve "click" when you gas it up?

        Turning the velocity up all the way should have vented air out the back of the velocity adjustment hole. did that happen? see above.

        Did you read the level 10 info in the resources tab above? You should set it as per the instructions.

        Comment

        • Geronimo7
          Registered User
          • Apr 2007
          • 419

          #5
          So far every time i gas it up i get one "click" but thats it. Then nothing, thats when I try uping the velocity, I can crank it till it stops, no air vents out the back. As far as the level 10
          goes, I've set up a couple of them for friends, pretty sure I know what I'm doing there.
          But you are right it does seem as if the valve doesn't get enough air.

          Comment

          • athomas
            Of course it works-its AGD
            • Jan 2002
            • 8039

            #6
            Check that the sear is clearing the bolt. It appears that you are suffering from a maladjusted sear assembly or have level 10 bolt stick. Check your level 10 first. Go to the largest carrier that does not leak. Do this without any shims installed. If you can get the bolt siding freely on the bolt stem without much effort then it is good to go. Then, you can check to see if the sear is being pushed far enough to clear the bolt by inserting the valve assembly into the body without a bolt spring. Don't air the gun up for this part. Pull the trigger in manual mode and see if you can allow the bolt to slide forward. If not, then you need to adjust your trigger. If the level 10 is still making it difficult to move the bolt, take the carrier out for this part. Make sure the solenoid plunger isn't bottoming out, thus preventing a full stroke.
            Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

            Comment

            • Geronimo7
              Registered User
              • Apr 2007
              • 419

              #7
              Originally posted by athomas
              Check that the sear is clearing the bolt. It appears that you are suffering from a maladjusted sear assembly or have level 10 bolt stick. Check your level 10 first. Go to the largest carrier that does not leak. Do this without any shims installed. If you can get the bolt siding freely on the bolt stem without much effort then it is good to go. Then, you can check to see if the sear is being pushed far enough to clear the bolt by inserting the valve assembly into the body without a bolt spring. Don't air the gun up for this part. Pull the trigger in manual mode and see if you can allow the bolt to slide forward. If not, then you need to adjust your trigger. If the level 10 is still making it difficult to move the bolt, take the carrier out for this part. Make sure the solenoid plunger isn't bottoming out, thus preventing a full stroke.

              Did as you suggested, removed spring and carrier. The bolt did move forward when i pulled the trigger. I am bringing a set of calipers home tonight to check the trigger rod and plunger
              measurments. Going off of memory the rod seemed to stick out further on my old intelliframe then it does on these emag lowers, almost touching the trigger on the intelliframe, and it barely peeks out of the frame on the emag frame (of course this is gassed up). Hopefully this is where my problem lies and is an easy fix. I will post the measurements later.

              Comment

              • athomas
                Of course it works-its AGD
                • Jan 2002
                • 8039

                #8
                It sounds like your trigger rod is ok if it is allowing the sear to go back far enough to clear the bolt.
                Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

                Comment

                • Geronimo7
                  Registered User
                  • Apr 2007
                  • 419

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Russ
                  does the gun fire in electro mode?


                  measure the length of the trigger rod. It should be 2.125"

                  the plunger should measure 3.005". The plunger should also move freely in the solenoid ('noid), that is, no binding at all, and be very smooth

                  O.K the tirgger rod measures 2.10 and the plunger 3.001. Is this close enough or should i adjust.

                  Also exactly where does this quad oring go. Does it take the place of the smaller of the 2 orings that are in the valve or do I unscrew the on/off and put it in there? Right now it is in the valve inside the larger oring.

                  Comment

                  • Coralis
                    Hyper Micro
                    • Aug 2005
                    • 1285

                    #10
                    The quad oring takes place of the two orings that are inserted into the valve prior to putting in the on/off assembly (on/off valve and pin). I cant answer your question on plunger length as i dont know


                    From the stickied post : tolerance specs for emag rt pro and ult
                    E-Mag:

                    On/Off pin: .712" w/ brass top and double o-ring top.
                    .725" w/ aluminum top and single o-ring top.

                    Trigger Rod: 2.125"

                    Solenoid Plunger Rod: 3.005"
                    Last edited by Coralis; 05-29-2007, 06:14 PM.

                    Comment

                    • Geronimo7
                      Registered User
                      • Apr 2007
                      • 419

                      #11
                      Ahhhh I see maybe i'll change that now then

                      Comment

                      • Russ
                        Senior Membrane
                        • Jul 2001
                        • 1935

                        #12
                        Geronimo7,

                        Look at the the Emag exploded view (pg 3) at the AGD website

                        Comment

                        • Geronimo7
                          Registered User
                          • Apr 2007
                          • 419

                          #13
                          Ya I was checking that out too. Guess I wasn't payin close enough attention to the picture.
                          Those measurments close enough? (don,t know how "accurate" my calipers are)

                          Now I have a small carrier leak....so gonna go down a carrier and see if I can get everything to seal up. Still cant get it to "click" yet.
                          Last edited by Geronimo7; 05-29-2007, 06:21 PM.

                          Comment

                          • Geronimo7
                            Registered User
                            • Apr 2007
                            • 419

                            #14
                            I know ya all are thinkin use the bleepin search button.

                            Comment

                            • Coralis
                              Hyper Micro
                              • Aug 2005
                              • 1285

                              #15
                              have you tried taking out the regulator pin and looking for an obstruction prevent sufficient air flow to the valve.

                              Comment

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