E-mag electrical problems

[jbg00d]

[MANN]

does this happen everytime you play?

[jbg00d]

does this happen everytime you play?

no, but I think I just fixed it. I increased the dwell to 15 and increased the fix to 40. It seemed to clear it up. any comments on those changes?

[Russ]

no, but I think I just fixed it. I increased the dwell to 15 and increased the fix to 40. It seemed to clear it up. any comments on those changes?

That seems appropriate according to the X Mod instructions. You may want to increase the FIX even higher. Try 46. Is you solenoid wired properly?

[BigEvil]

Actually, you want to keep the fix as low as you can without the gun bouncing. Increasing the FIX decrease the size of the shot buffer.

If you find that the gun has a bounce issue, try the compass test on the noid to see if it is wired correctly.

[jbg00d]

Actually, you want to keep the fix as low as you can without the gun bouncing. Increasing the FIX decrease the size of the shot buffer.

If you find that the gun has a bounce issue, try the compass test on the noid to see if it is wired correctly.

please forgive my ignorance, but what is bounce?

[athomas]

In most mechanical switches there is contact bounce that gives multiple contact closures. If the debounce is too low it registers these closures as trigger pulls and artificially increases the rate of fire.

In emags, a magnetic HES is used to register trigger pulls. However, the collapsing magnetic field of the solenoid can cause an artificial activation of the trigger if the solenoid polarity is incorrect. This is the magnetic equivalent of switch bounce. Wiring the solenoid with the proper polarity helps solve the problem. This is "fixed" in the Xmod software by turning off the trigger sensing while this part of the cycle is ocurring. Increasing the fix number widens the gap of nonsensing. It also increases the amount of time that it won't register a legitimate trigger pull either, which is why you want to keep the number as low as possible.

[jbg00d]

In most mechanical switches there is contact bounce that gives multiple contact closures. If the debounce is too low it registers these closures as trigger pulls and artificially increases the rate of fire.

In emags, a magnetic HES is used to register trigger pulls. However, the collapsing magnetic field of the solenoid can cause an artificial activation of the trigger if the solenoid polarity is incorrect. This is the magnetic equivalent of switch bounce. Wiring the solenoid with the proper polarity helps solve the problem. This is "fixed" in the Xmod software by turning off the trigger sensing while this part of the cycle is ocurring. Increasing the fix number widens the gap of nonsensing. It also increases the amount of time that it won't register a legitimate trigger pull either, which is why you want to keep the number as low as possible.

I like to run the gun in full auto at around 12 to 15 bps. Before I raised the fix to 40, it would fire about a dozen rounds then completely quit working in "e" mode until you Turn the battery power off then right back on. But that didn't fix anything, it just allowed it to fire another dozen rounds.

I guess I should do the compass trick to see if its wired correctly since I bought the emag frame used. It does look like someone has installed a new silenoid. they didn't do a bad job, just looks like someone's been there; could have been done professionally too.

Brian

[phizz]

The compass trick is always good, but to me it doesn't seem like your problem is bounce. If the adjustments with increasing yoru dwell worked I would stick with that.

Another problem may be your ASA. I had one that when I tightened it all the way it actually starved my air tank, therefore only getting a few full pressure shots from the lines being aired up then cutting off due to the tank being starved. EAsy cure try unloosening your asa 1/8 or 1/4 turn

[Russ]

jb,

You need to download & read the X Mod manual...in there you'll find that it's NOT recommended to run the gun on full auto all the time, or you can burn up the board and/or solenoid.



you can the polarity of the 'noid without a compass, too read all about it, lookee here

[flyingpootang]

Brian, check your board/grounding & battery positive screw and make sure their snug if the power drops off. If the power remains on check that your bolt is restting (push in with a squigee toseat), your L10 bolt is tuned, and make sure your on/off is oiled. Nice to see other NorCal ballers on AO. Check out this site for software and specs/teching info on the Emag:

http://www.niedtech.com

[jbg00d]

Brian, check your board/grounding & battery positive screw and make sure their snug if the power drops off. If the power remains on check that your bolt is restting (push in with a squigee toseat), your L10 bolt is tuned, and make sure your on/off is oiled. Nice to see other NorCal ballers on AO. Check out this site for software and specs/teching info on the Emag:
http://www.niedtech.com

Oh, I don't hold the trigger on, only at the most 3 to 5 rounds at a time. I can see how that would ruin the electronics.

>>Nice to see other NorCal ballers on AO.
Thanks. We started out two years ago with only 3 of us and before we know it, there were 5 more people that wanted to play.

One of them had been on a team back in the 80's and he just so happend to have a 10 acre lot that he donated to play on. now we have roughly 3 dozen members and three donated fields and another on the way. We have some video footage of a couple fo are fields if anyone would like to see them? They're not very good, but you'd get the idea. You'd think that with that many members we would have some really good game; we do sometimes, but trying to get everyone out is somewhat of a bit**. So now a couple of the other die-hard members and I have decided to go round up more players who like woodsball.

Our gimmic is: "join our woodsball group and play for free".

Oh guys, I'm sorry, I didn't mean go off on that tangent. I just get a bit excited about the game. Anyways, it's time for me to get some
I'll be by tomorrow. Later guys...

jbg00d
a.k.a. Brian

[athomas]

The board and solenoid can stand full auto for quite a while. That is why it is so heavy duty.

I do agree with the grounding. The screw that holds the board in place sometimes doesn't make good contact with the frame. This is due to annodize and corrosion in the screw hole. Run a tap in the hole to clean it out.

Check that your level 10 is not sticking. As mentioned, use a squeegie and push the bolt back. If the sear clicks forward, you know it was a level 10 issue.

[KayleAGD]

You may want to check the magnet on the trigger for metal chips or back off the magnet a little. I have seen the plating flake off the magnet to give some strange results..

[jbg00d]

You may want to check the magnet on the trigger for metal chips or back off the magnet a little. I have seen the plating flake off the magnet to give some strange results..

You know, sometimes it will fire as soon as I connect the air, that would indicate that the bolt is sticking wouldn't it?