Ball Breaker

[gabriel9090]

I recently bought a used minimag, the gun is about ten years old now. I'm running it on compressed air and it seems to fire just fine, but it breaks a lot of paint so I can't hit someone a few yards away. Sometimes the ball gets chopped in the breach, other times somewhere in the barrel (I have noticed some double feeding).

What should I look for and what are some of the parts I should consider fixing or updating on a gun this old?

Thanks for any help

[Dark Side]

A new Xvalve or you could just get the level 10 bolt. That would correct the chopping problem. Double feeding? What hopper are you currently using?

[Tao]

If you are double feeding a lvl 10 won't help much. Get a parts kit and replace the ball detent(s) ("nubbins"). What loader are you using? If you are using a force feed loader you may want to switch to a less agressive one of get the AGD barrel with dual ball detents.

If replacing the detents doesn't work or switching loaders or both, the paint may be too small for the barrel in which case change your paint (finding a smaller bore barrel for a minimag I think would be next to impossible).

Also make sure there is a foamy on the tip of the bolt (if your bolt can take one). If you don't have one a foamy can make a big difference.

[gabriel9090]

If you are double feeding a lvl 10 won't help much. Get a parts kit and replace the ball detent(s) ("nubbins"). What loader are you using? If you are using a force feed loader you may want to switch to a less agressive one of get the AGD barrel with dual ball detents.

If replacing the detents doesn't work or switching loaders or both, the paint may be too small for the barrel in which case change your paint (finding a smaller bore barrel for a minimag I think would be next to impossible).

Also make sure there is a foamy on the tip of the bolt (if your bolt can take one). If you don't have one a foamy can make a big difference.

the hopper is as old as the gun, a viewloader revolution. I do have two bolts (I also have an old automag that can use the foamie), the one in now has the dimple and doesn't use the foamie.

Besides replacing the detents, is there a way to size the paint to the barrel? Has paint become smaller in the 10 - 12 years since some of my barrels have been made?

thanks

[Tao]

the hopper is as old as the gun, a viewloader revolution. I do have two bolts (I also have an old automag that can use the foamie), the one in now has the dimple and doesn't use the foamie.

Besides replacing the detents, is there a way to size the paint to the barrel? Has paint become smaller in the 10 - 12 years since some of my barrels have been made?

thanks

Paint size I believe is intended to be the same size, but manufactures make it a more brittle than it was. Paint size still varries from manufacturer, and what the paint has been exposed to (extreme temperatures, humidity, etc). Paint varries in size from .685 to .695 calibre. One thing you can try and do is expose your paint to humididty to make it larger. Do this if you put a ball in your barrel and it rolls out. You can add humidity by taking in your bags of paint into the bathroom when you have a shower and leaving the bags open.

But you are mostlikely better off just trying different paint since this is easier.

[Coralis]

Try using the foamy bolt i had much better luck with them than the foamyless ones . Also check for burrs in your barrel especially if you have had a wire nubbin jammed by the bolt . Lastly i used to have lots of problems with breaks when i switched to a double trigger as it turns out i was short stroking the trigger , the problem went away when i put on my hyperframe.

[gabriel9090]

level 10?

bring me up to speed . .. . I got my first Automag in 1993 (I still have it). I recently bought a used mini because it also came w/ two compressed air tanks and two more barrels & if I get everything together I'll have two working mags.

My buddy bought an Ion and gives me **** for buying essentially the same gun we both had in high school.

When I got the new gun I didn't realize that they were such antiques. 14 years ago the field in VA had an AGD sponsored team and their own tech dude. Now people call me 'old school' and no stores stock there parts.

I understand the foamies and the ball dentent for the barrels, but what's the deal w/ the level 10 or X valve? As far as I know, one is less expensive and one is lighter.

Also, about the loader? When I had my first mag, I still had to shake it after 7 shots 'cause battery powered hoppers weren't around. Both of my guns have a powerfeed mainbody with the diagonal feed tube (one is left & one is right). I've looked at the Warp Feed & the Q loader but I really don't care.

All I want is a gun that shoots strait and since I own two I'd like to get them working better than the Tippman 98 that I rented my last time out!

[athomas]

First I would try new nubbins. Use the new plastic nubbins. There is a little knob on the back of them. If you put a small piece of tape on that knob and then hold it in place with a wrap of tape around the barrel, it will force the nubbin farther into the barrel to help with smaller paint.

A level 10 is nice if you happen to outshoot your hopper, which I use to do all the time with my classic and revy. The level 10 bolt will prevent the chop even if you shortstroke or tip the gun on its side.

A retro/xvalve valve is nice and makes it easier to shoot fast due to the reactive trigger, but is an expensive upgrade for general play.

A mag will definately outperform a Tippman 98.

[Tao]

bring me up to speed . .. . I got my first Automag in 1993 (I still have it). I recently bought a used mini because it also came w/ two compressed air tanks and two more barrels & if I get everything together I'll have two working mags.

My buddy bought an Ion and gives me **** for buying essentially the same gun we both had in high school.

When I got the new gun I didn't realize that they were such antiques. 14 years ago the field in VA had an AGD sponsored team and their own tech dude. Now people call me 'old school' and no stores stock there parts.

I understand the foamies and the ball dentent for the barrels, but what's the deal w/ the level 10 or X valve? As far as I know, one is less expensive and one is lighter.

Also, about the loader? When I had my first mag, I still had to shake it after 7 shots 'cause battery powered hoppers weren't around. Both of my guns have a powerfeed mainbody with the diagonal feed tube (one is left & one is right). I've looked at the Warp Feed & the Q loader but I really don't care.

All I want is a gun that shoots strait and since I own two I'd like to get them working better than the Tippman 98 that I rented my last time out!

Automags are still at the top of the food chain when it comes to mechanical (non-electronic) guns. However the market for mags has dwindled so none really caters to them anymore.

An x Valve is an all aluminium RT valve with a level 10 bolt installed, to be a drop in upgrade for any AGD marker except for the classic RT. You can buy the level 10 bolt seperately and it will be able to be installed into any AGD gun even the classic RT (needs to be tuned though, it isn't drop in and play).

All you would need for a loader for your mag is a Viewloader Revolution 2 which is $50 CND so probably $40 or so USD. I would recomend buying one of these as your first upgrade if you don't have an electronic loader.

Oh and in responce to your buddy with an ION. You have two superior guns. The only thing his Ion does better than a mag is have a lighter (electronic) trigger than yours, which will help him shoot faster. If everyone you play with has electro guns you may consider buying an electronic grip frame for your mags. Once you do that then you will have a better gun than the rest :P

[PBChappy]

dont worry about the guy with the ion, my mag out shoots any ion out there, get yourself a x-valve, ult kit, flatline reg set to around 1150psi, and one hell of a fast hopper (i can out shoot my VLocity) and people will be asking what gun is that and where can i get one all day long

[gabriel9090]

hope this works . . .

. . . . so, I ordered a bunch of foamies, nubbins and a level 10 upgrade. I'm a little nervous about performing rocket surgery on the valve but I think I'll make it.

I am curious about what I have to do to make it work right. Everything says level 10 is not 'drop & go.' I know I'm gonna have to take the back apart to put all the new parts in, but is there anything I have to do after I put it all back together?

Also, what should I do as far as regular maintnence? How much oil should I use and how often - I still have the same oil agd sent w/ the gun in 1994 but thought it would be good to spring a few bucks for some newer stuff

Thanks for all the advice
Gabe

[athomas]

. . . . so, I ordered a bunch of foamies, nubbins and a level 10 upgrade. I'm a little nervous about performing rocket surgery on the valve but I think I'll make it.

I am curious about what I have to do to make it work right. Everything says level 10 is not 'drop & go.' I know I'm gonna have to take the back apart to put all the new parts in, but is there anything I have to do after I put it all back together?

Also, what should I do as far as regular maintnence? How much oil should I use and how often - I still have the same oil agd sent w/ the gun in 1994 but thought it would be good to spring a few bucks for some newer stuff

Thanks for all the advice
Gabe

If you buy a level 10, it will have a foamy. Your level 7 bolts will either have a hollow front where the foamy used to be (if it is missing) or have a metal tip which doesn't require a foamy.

Its not rocket science to maintain a mag valve. Its quite easy. Everything is so easy to work on.

The level 10 is not drop in and go but it is easy. Just do a preliminary test fit of the carrier and oring onto the bolt stem. It should be snug but not so that it prevents movement. If you hold the bolt vertical using the carrier on the stem, a slight tap should cause it to slide off. Then you put the assembly into the powertube of the valve. Don't use any shims. Install the red bolt spring. Add air. Turn up the velocity. Test fire your mag. Listen for leaks. If it leaks out the front, go to the next smaller carrier using the same oring. If it fires and then sticks or if it won't fire at all (and is not leaking), then go to the next larger carrier using the same oring. You should be good to go. Don't worry about the shims. Many don't even use them and have no problems. Once the velocity is up to field speed, check for leaking out the back. The older mags had lower pressure regulator piston assemblies and will sometimes release air at the higher pressures required by the level 10 bolts. If this is the case, use the shortest bolt spring until you get a new piston assembly.

As for maintenance, just keep the gun clean. I never take my mag apart unless it develops a problem. Just add a couple of drops of light oil into the asa at the beginning of the day and cycle the gun with the barrel off to keep it oil free. All the oil has to do is wet the orings. The original oil should still be good. If not get some good synthetic air tool oil. Don't put grease or oil on the bolt or spring. They should be dry. Any moisture will transfer to the balls and then barrel which will cause inaccuracy.

To start off with a used mag, you should replace all orings and grease the spring pack in the back.

[gabriel9090]

level 10, here I come

I ordered the level 10, should I also get the $20 complete o ring kit and change everything?

What actually is the level 10 replacing. Also, about the X-valve, what's the difference between it and an old valve w/ level 10 (besides the weight)?

[hmudd13]

I ordered the level 10, should I also get the $20 complete o ring kit and change everything?

What actually is the level 10 replacing. Also, about the X-valve, what's the difference between it and an old valve w/ level 10 (besides the weight)?

Having the oring kit is a good idea, wether you use it now or when you need it.

The differance between the valves are like night and day. The classic valve will recharge IIRC, up to 13 bps. The X valve will recharge up to 26 bps, although I know a few guys here will say it will go faster. And I believe it will.
Unless you need to shoot that fast I'd stay with the classic. I have a couple of auto response mags (fire with pull AND release of trigger) and they have no problems with classic valves.
The lvl 10 replaces the bolt, spring,power tube tip and power tube spacer. Sounds like a lot, but it really isn't.
Just follow the instructions and you'll be ok. If not you'll find the guys here are always eager to help out, no matter how big or small your question is.

As far as maintanance goes, a few drops of auto lube in your asa, or in your quick disconnect, before playing. (pull your barrel and dry fire a few times) and your good to go.

[Allfat]

Go to the resources tab under the Automags.org banner and click on Level 10 Guide. It helped me out a ton with my level 10.