whats the fastest mag rof on video ?
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pnue ill just use yours thats good enough mine is a LONGBOW and stated no mag is as good as his dm i was like WTF u thinkinComment
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But one thing to remember about the LVL7 setup (and all mag valves) is that the dump chamber does not recharge while the bolt is returning (like a poppet or spool marker). The automag valve recharges the dump camber when the sear is reset. So the true shot dwell time for a mag should be from when the sear releases the bolt until the dump chamber is full again and ready for the next shot.Originally posted by nicadhttp://www.tinkersguild.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=545 (Ion bolt cycle and recharge tests)
A stock Ion new out of the box takes ~40ms for the bolt to move forward, fire, and come
**EDIT update**
I find it interesting that, according to the graphs that Tom posted years ago (I have them saved locally), the Emag bolt (in 01/03/2002 -- with LVL7 bolt??) took 35ms for the bolt to cycle forward, fire, and come back. The E/Xmag valve can take a much higher input pressure, so is therefore capable of recharging faster.
All food for thought. :)
You quickly begin see how the automag valve design has merely a fraction of the time other valve designs have to recharge for the next shot. This means the regs HAVE to be the fastest to compete in the BPS challenge. Some guns struggle to hit 30+bps and keep up... the mag hits 30bps and has a fraction of the time to recharge. An RTmag has arguably the fastest cyclic rate for a marker and easily the most uncontested recharge rate for the reg. I'd bet a classic air reg is pretty fast compared to modern inline regs.
If you have a mechanical background, you can see this is pretty amazing. All Hail Tom Kaye.
More food for thought (dessert maybe?)Comment
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Spoolers often end up being slower due to how they're designed. They use a large volume of air to move the bolt back and forth, so it takes the air a long time to be vented (the venting has to occur so the bolt will move, and it's the dependant factor in most cases).
Dwell times aren't too much longer than a typical hammer/valve based stacked tube electro, since they work using a piston pat that has to be pushed back and forth. The only difference is hammer/bvalve markers use less volume to move the ram, so they can vent and cycle quicker.
When you use a QEV properly then it'll speed things up quite a bit. That goes for a spool-valve marker or a hammer/valve one...since they both use hte same venting dependancy it helps quite a bit. Using QEVs properly on a spool-valve marker would make it cycle very quickly....unfortunately there aren't any spoolers out there that are designed to use them.
Mags using springs and HP air allows them to be very quick. Springs are pretty lowtech but they definitely have their advantages too. That said, most base-mount solenoid markers (DM, PM, Shocker, etc) are limited to around 25-bps unless you totally unwhack the settings.
Of course it then crosses into the debate of how much more stupidly fast can one highend gun fire compared to another stupidly fast highend gun....Andy "Ydna" DuBuc
Nummech Products & ZDSPBComment
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Agreed.Originally posted by YdnaOf course it then crosses into the debate of how much more stupidly fast can one highend gun fire compared to another stupidly fast highend gun....
Even when you're doing suppression fire, 10 bps is ample to hose down and area and keep someone's head down. Heck.... 1 bps can be just as effective if the ball is placed very carefully.
It still amazes me that anyone even wants a gun that can do 30+ bps (and I'm glad that so many here take a stance against high bps). If that high bps actually wins you the game, then it's the gun winning, not your personal skill. It's like someone playing basketball with a modified ball that homes in on the basket. It's not really you winning anymore, is it?
I have a pneumag, and I can do about 10 bps, and I've already used that speed a few times, but it's ME doing it, not the gun. It's MY skill that is making a difference. Sometimes I envy the guys with the cheap Ions who can do full auto, but I get over the envy real quick when I remember that I wouldn't be able to take pride in my victory if I played with a gun like that.Comment
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Originally posted by jhart
Holy crap. Now that is truly a rope!Comment
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latches109
Originally posted by nicadAir recharge rate (Hyper2 reg) is around 50ms (20bps).
When i was testing my home made board i had my pm6 (stock) shooting at 28bps with paint. no breaks eyes on. couldn't get above that.Comment
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This only would work in a dry fire scenario. If you are using paint, it will chop like mad, as the level 10 doesnt seem to work when it fires like that. I have found that you dont actually have to remove those parts. Same thing can be achieved by placing the regulator seat oring into the regulator seat holder (brass piece). It then seems to work full auto, at least on my valve. I did get another x-valve i was going to test this on, but have not had a chance to get more air.Originally posted by Pneumaggerwhat kind of mag do you have and how much does he know about mags?
If he doesn't know too much technical about automags, do this:
Jack up the input pressure as high as you can.Remove THIS part and THIS oring from your regulator assembly.
Viola... your mag cycles @ 40+ bps full auto.
Or you can just show him this vid of my old pneumag cycling somewhere over 40cps.
Just claim I made it a full auto.
http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g4...t=100_1562.flv
All you have to do is hold the trigger, and it is full auto without any electronics at all. I do have a video on youtube as well, but im at work, and cant access it. if you search for "Tac-One full auto?" you may find it. Cheers.Comment


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